nice work....looks like you took some paint off of the engine bay when you were cleaning it

 

Unfortunately yes some came off. At first I was not concerned too much as it looks bad but is only paint that is missing. The primer/anti-rust crap sprayed on the rails from the factory is still there, so no bare metal.


Except right here. Gonna have to do something about that before I close up the brake hydraulics.



Loosening the wiring and crap on that frame rail to move out of the way for paint isn't too bad as it's already mostly loose or unbolted. I'll probably zap that rail tonight.


Did douche out the rear brake lines and other crap. Haven't decided on what rotors or pads to go with yet...



Going to put in new bungs into my RB down pipe instead of using the old fucked up ones.

 

Last nights picking...

Painted up the bare metal spot on the frame rail. Got the booster back in and master cylinder hooked up. Brakes just need to be bled, waiting for a friend to come through on a bribe.



Toasted old front sway bar bushings swapped out for the Energy Suspension ones.




May seem trivial but I removed and cleaned all the plastic bumper ducting I have. If you've read this thread and look at the first pic I posted, the oil cooler was stored right above these. Needless to say there was a ton of tree debris and oil to clean up. It now drips no fluids old or new.



Still flying as I need to wrap up a few things underneath. Stuff like new fuel hoses, attach miscellaneous brackets, etc.

 

Have not posted any updates as I basically haven't touched the car in over a month. Work, SEMA, 3 birthdays, started helping a friend at his store on the weekends. So that puts me at 7 days a week working. FML...

Did get my brakes bled perfectly and the car is no longer hovering in the air. Replaced all the soft fuel hoses to the gas tank and off the feed hard line to the fuel filter. Mounted the oil cooler and ripped out the Air Pump resonator under the passenger side headlight.





Progress was slowing down anyways as I have been avoiding the inevitable mess that is my engine harness. As it is now, wrap coming off and I have a total of 5 broken vital connections...






So with a month of pondering, my mind has been made up on going Haltech. Throwing "stock as stock can be" out the window. Placing my order on Monday for GM intake/coolant temp, oil pressure/temp, and fuel pressure sensors. Looking at getting new connectors for the CAS, TPS, and stock coils from LMS-EFI. Have a nice S5 BAC connector on my JDM harness and good JDM S5 BAC valve I can use. This free's up the PS1000 stepper motor control for possible re-installation of the S5 OMP which I have removed currently.

Glad one of my vendors is an authorized Haltech dealer and hoping to have a PS1000 + long "Autospec" flying lead kit sitting on my desk in about a week. Total price was very reasonable and worth while in the long run for me as I do not plan on getting rid of this car. Only person it will ever sell to is my good friend whom I purchased it from originally. If I poof this engine, which it will eventually, we've got 2 more JDM S5 TII engines sitting around. Between the 3, I'd like to hope we could round up enough parts for 1 LOL

 

U rich :-p

Coming along good tho. I wish I had time to work on my fc more often. I just barely got it off jack stands and moved it into the garage and guess what. Back on a stand ahaha some day it will drive.

 

(1) HT051302 - PS1000 Flying Lead Long, 6-Circuit Fuse Block, 4 Relays
(1) HT010200 - Air Temp Sensor M14 x 1.5
(1) HT010300 - Coolant Temp Sensor M12 x 1.5
(2) HT010904 - Fuel/Oil Pressure Sensor 150psi
(1) HT039000 - ECU Rail Mounts w/ Screws, Set of 4

Ordered the Haltech stuff, no turning back now...


Rich no. I'm motivated and work 2 jobs, 7 days a week to pay for this as well as other things. It did help price wise to have the Haltech hook up.

I'd like to buy the two S5 TII JDM cores my buddy has and get those taken apart as well. See if I can get enough parts to build and lightly port one motor in case this JDM S5 TII motor we pulled from a clip is poop. Should hook up the battery again and compression test it, maybe later today...

 

Love the progress ! Keep it going bro !!

 

Barter system FTW! Come up of the week = some fresh new shoes for the Turbo II....

Volk Racing AV-2's with "old" 100% tread Falken Azenis ST-115's

 

You know what they say...there's no school like the old school.

 

Eh, I've worked in the muscle car scene for quite a few years. Some the old engine building mentality is definately not good. Like the age old gimmick of roller tip rocker arms with a stock style pivot ball @ the rocker stud. Loose valve guide clearances is a good one too "Let her oil a bit it's good for her." Or Plastigauge being a precision measuring tool for bearing clearances, NOT A FAN!

But also true, this is why I like the Panasport G7-C5R wheels so much. Matches the old school S4 look quite nicely I think. My C5R's are FC specific fitment according to Panasport Japan's website at 16x7 +30 Front / 16x8 +30 Rear, mine match these specs.

I need to look at the Volks and see what it'll take to get them fit well on the FC. Luckily my wheel spacer selection to test fitment is almost limitless...


Haltech PS1000 to be delivered on Tuesday. Muchos excites!

 

 

What's that big silver sensor on the left? I see what looks like "150PSI" Oil? Fuel?

 

Correct, it's a fluid pressure sensor. I have two of them actually.

Sensor/electronics plans are as follows:

- Haltech Fuel/Oil Pressure
- Haltech Intake Temperature
- Haltech Coolant Temperature
- Haltech Built-In MAP Sensor
- Innovate LC-1 Wideband Controller & Bosch 4.2 LSU Sensor
- EGT = Undecided...
- Blitz SBC Type-S EBC (May sell & run Haltech solenoid/control.)
- OEM S5 BAC
- OEM CAS
- OEM Coils
- Taurus Alternator
- Assortment of 2-Pin, 3-Pin, 4-Pin, 6-Pin, 8-Pin DT & DTM connectors

Quick question to others using the PS ECU's with the new software. I've been using a Toshiba Satellite laptop for tuning (FAST, ACCEL DFI, Big Stuff 3, and AEM currently loaded). It's about 5 years old and seems to run the Haltech ECU Manager fine. Is anyone using a NetBook for tuning? I would rather use a 10" 3lbs NetBook than my 17" 10lbs laptop. A little put off both my NetBooks are Atom chips and only 1GB SDRAM. Looking to move all my software & tunes over to an HDD NetBook. Computer nerds chime in? Should I start lugging around the glowing "Tower of Power."

 

I was told it's blasphemy to wear this t-shirt whilst handling the new gear. I ignored such comments...

 

Exactly what I wanted for Christmas

 

Wow! Awesome job so far!! I bought my 13B T from Lucky 7 Racing, that I just finished swapping in.

 

Coming along really nice!

 

which koyo rad are you using. R series?

 

Yes it's a S4 style R-Core #R0181. N-Flo double pass is only available in a S5 style with the cap neck & overflow nipple all the way on the end of the end tank (left/driver side).

 

right on. thank you