Hamsammy

Yeah I would disconnect the headrest plug at the seat and test the impedance. if it's 4-8 ohms the factory deck will handle it no problem. Since you only have your front speakers hooked up you should have channels 3/4 (green/purple) open for use. You would only really need to set the fader once, not a constant battle. I could see how you might want to adjust it for when you are top up/down, but mostly the volume works for that... Otherwise you COULD do a small amp back there, run RCAs with a rheostat inline and then use that for the headrest volume. ( )

I should have written down everything I did for the volume controls when I did it... I'll look into my shop notebook and see what I can find. Basically I hardwired the power/surround LEDs to have power and come on whenever I pressed them, then grounded (tried power first, didn't work) the input lines to the 4 volume buttons(red and yellow wires going into them I think), then put an individual resistor on each output for the switches(green with diff tracers), tied those all down to one wire and used I think the white wire on Program 3 with the PAC SWI. I can give more detail later.

kooper271

I believe that they are 4 ohms. Correct me if I'm wrong but if I wire them in parallel that means that they would be presenting a 2 ohm load? Series would present 8 ohms but most likely be too quiet.

Before I start doing all this though, I think I should try this https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...cement-936458/

Last question, if I had the headrest speakers wired to the factory deck, how would I connect my aftermarket stereo to the factory deck?

Hamsammy

I would wire them in series to 8 ohms. 3.5" speakers can handle very little power (10-20RMS filtered ie, bass blocker) vs a 6.5 that handles 30-150 RMS and these will be right by your head. I promise they will be loud enough wired to 8 ohms.

Did you have the headrest speakers wired to the factory deck? Or did they work with the factory deck? The amp for the headrest speakers is behind the driver's seat in the spare tire area. The factory deck sent a signal to that amp and then allowed it to control the volume of the speakers independently.
I'm not sure what you mean when you ask how would you connect the aftermarket stereo to the factory deck since those items occupy the same space in the car and you have only one or the other(typically, this isn't a 98 Civic with factory keyless). I think you might mean the factory amp to the aftermarket head unit and in that case I'm unsure whether the factory amp received a powered or line level signal from the factory deck. I cut out most of my wiring and parts when I upgraded.

Hamsammy

Oh, and I would try to wire it up first before you upgrade just to see what it sounds like. And if you do upgrade get some Infinity or Polk 3.5s, I think they work pretty well. Blaupunkt are.. meh...

kooper271

Sorry, I made a mistake and misread something earlier. Disregard what I said.

They were wired to the amp, which was connected to the factory deck. They did work. I think I'm going to pull out the head unit and harness and try to figure it out tomorrow. Thanks for all the help, and great build btw.

kooper271

I linked to the wrong thread earlier sorry. This is what I meant to link to. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...works*-936433/

Hamsammy

I was just about to link that to you! haha.

I'm thinking the factory amp took speaker level inputs... Did you connect the green and purple wires behind the radio? Does the car have wires coming into the same pin locations on that harness?

Hamsammy

Finally got her looking.... symmetrical.

The website said I would need to buy the seat bracket AND the slider assembly... I didn't want to sacrifice the height as I knew it would already be 2" taller than my bolted-through-the-floor driver's seat (which I LOVE!)

Well, they were right, but I just measure twice, got out the drilling oil and went to town.



I chased the treads of the "nuts" the bolts go into and was able to get them all threaded on my second attempt. For some reason the left rear bolt needed to go in first instead of last.

Don't mind the garage...

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

nice.

Hamsammy

Well last Saturday I lost both headlights, talk about consistent manufacturing! Upgraded to OSRAM Nightbreakers and the difference is amazing!! They are no more expensive than Sylvania Silverstars. Also, pictures coming soon of my running light situation since the Chad did manage to put new lenses in that accept an H4 bulb and a 194.

Onto today's modification, hood shocks! Install was 10 minutes and so far I'm happy with them.

Hamsammy

Finally finished my mod on the lights. While I was working on one I dropped it 4 inches and the glass shattered... So I bought some new ones

194s in the headlights. They are linked to the running lights, come right through the FTP lenses, and can be seen pretty well even with the headlights on (though that's impossible to photograph with my cell phone). They don't work well off center due to the distance from bulb to lens, but whatever.








And a grainy shot of the interior.