Whizbang's Rally Car v3.0!
#27
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Thread Starter
I prefer the design of the FD over the FC anyway. Plus it fit much better than I expected. I obviously had to cut the "frame" rail of the unibody (is there a technical term for that?) but the front mounts lined up to where the lower link mounted to the body. So after cutting that out, it had a nice area to work with.
#30
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Thread Starter
So i officially have FC suspension and subframe in the front, and FD suspension and subframe in the rear. Being that this is a 78, SA, but I have FB body paneling, bumpers, wiring, dash, some other metal bits for wirewall (pedal board is wider for the clutch on the FB), its part FB as well.
Thus, I likely have the first and only, SABCD.
Boom!
Thus, I likely have the first and only, SABCD.
Boom!
#31
Slowly but surely
iTrader: (9)
So i officially have FC suspension and subframe in the front, and FD suspension and subframe in the rear. Being that this is a 78, SA, but I have FB body paneling, bumpers, wiring, dash, some other metal bits for wirewall (pedal board is wider for the clutch on the FB), its part FB as well.
Thus, I likely have the first and only, SABCD.
Boom!
Thus, I likely have the first and only, SABCD.
Boom!
#32
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Thread Starter
also, due to FD rear brakes, but only 15" tire size availability (FIA mandates of 65cm diameter maximum) i HAVE to order some kinda Speedline or Braid wheel.
#36
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Thread Starter
oh im not, i was on the phone today discussing rear tower solutions and rear coilovers. Only way this car is going down, is when i crash it.
#37
BUY MY PARTS!!!
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Posts: 428
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Looking good man!
Mind giving me some more detail about the way you did the mounting of the FC front subframe?
Doing the same right now, and cant decide on the best method for the rear bolt holes. Also, what was the thickness of the spacer you used for the rear of the subframe?
Mind giving me some more detail about the way you did the mounting of the FC front subframe?
Doing the same right now, and cant decide on the best method for the rear bolt holes. Also, what was the thickness of the spacer you used for the rear of the subframe?
#38
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Thread Starter
for the hole i used the fronts to align the frame. for the rear you need a spacer to level the frame out. i have varied it from 1/2" to 3/4" over the times I have done it without much real study. Then i mark upward and determine the hole. i rather long as bolt and a plate from up top and weld the top in, works good.
#42
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Thread Starter
i took it to an axle shop with the rotor i wanted to use. pop it on a lathe and turn it down so that the rotor fits. Then redrilled. helps to have the studs with you to boot. all the brackets were made. The design is modeled after the Ford Escort Mk2 rally prep manual
#45
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Stupid pedal box and a stupid power steering cooler installation.
Bet that felt stupid.
Alex, I love you buddy, this thing is turning out SO NICE!
3yrs, ya? 3yrs until we each can ride in each others' cars. Lap of Luxury vs. Gravel in MaPants and Sideways.
Bet that felt stupid.
Alex, I love you buddy, this thing is turning out SO NICE!
3yrs, ya? 3yrs until we each can ride in each others' cars. Lap of Luxury vs. Gravel in MaPants and Sideways.
#46
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Thread Starter
#48
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Thread Starter
So here is what I have. Toyota 4runner axle. An 8" and as I now regret, ABS equipped one. Machined the axles to fit a saab 900 rotor in 4x4.5.
Caliper wise, i tried fitting volvo 240 rears but the bottom inlet for hydraulics kinda sucks for clearance. I then acquired a bracket that mounts Toyota calipers but the saab rotor is 280mm and the toyota is ~300 so the rotor i have is too small, but the alignment is perfect.
I hate this car.
Caliper wise, i tried fitting volvo 240 rears but the bottom inlet for hydraulics kinda sucks for clearance. I then acquired a bracket that mounts Toyota calipers but the saab rotor is 280mm and the toyota is ~300 so the rotor i have is too small, but the alignment is perfect.
I hate this car.
#50
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Thread Starter
my solution will likely be a wilwood brake bell in 1.96 offset for 8 x 7 rotor lug pattern blank. then drill for my 4x4.5 and center bore. Get a solid, nonvented 11.75" rotor (~300mm) and call it good. The caliper mount can have one of the four tabs removed since three is more than two and two is plenty already. Then i can rotate the caliper to about 1 oclock position and avoid piling in the dirt that seems to occur with front mounted calipers.