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Whizbang's Rally Car v3.0!

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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 08:18 AM
  #26  
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Damn, seeing how well that fits is making me second guess the FC rear I was planning to in mine next winter...
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 09:38 AM
  #27  
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I prefer the design of the FD over the FC anyway. Plus it fit much better than I expected. I obviously had to cut the "frame" rail of the unibody (is there a technical term for that?) but the front mounts lined up to where the lower link mounted to the body. So after cutting that out, it had a nice area to work with.
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 10:57 AM
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I usually just call them frame rails too. In your case it doesn't matter, but I'm wondering what i could come up with (for either FC or FD IRS) interior wise to cover the strut towers
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 11:13 AM
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this makes me think "neat-o" good job buddy
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 03:35 PM
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So i officially have FC suspension and subframe in the front, and FD suspension and subframe in the rear. Being that this is a 78, SA, but I have FB body paneling, bumpers, wiring, dash, some other metal bits for wirewall (pedal board is wider for the clutch on the FB), its part FB as well.

Thus, I likely have the first and only, SABCD.

Boom!
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 04:03 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Whizbang
So i officially have FC suspension and subframe in the front, and FD suspension and subframe in the rear. Being that this is a 78, SA, but I have FB body paneling, bumpers, wiring, dash, some other metal bits for wirewall (pedal board is wider for the clutch on the FB), its part FB as well.

Thus, I likely have the first and only, SABCD.

Boom!
that's awesome...so u have a mix of old and new. good to see that it started out as an SA frame as you can only make it better but imagine if someone w/ an FD put other rx7 parts on their car...haha.
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 11:22 PM
  #32  
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also, due to FD rear brakes, but only 15" tire size availability (FIA mandates of 65cm diameter maximum) i HAVE to order some kinda Speedline or Braid wheel.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 03:03 PM
  #33  
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I was gonna ask what you ended up deciding on wheels. I saw your other threads trying to figure out what 15's you could run.

Anxious to see pics of your rear strut towers
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 12:20 AM
  #34  
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blah blah blah, haven't had time to fiddle with this due to school and work.
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 10:33 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Whizbang
blah blah blah, haven't had time to fiddle with this due to school and work.
Just don't give up on this one. You have a lot of really cool stuff going on with it. You can get back to it when you get a chance.
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 10:59 PM
  #36  
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oh im not, i was on the phone today discussing rear tower solutions and rear coilovers. Only way this car is going down, is when i crash it.
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 02:37 AM
  #37  
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Looking good man!

Mind giving me some more detail about the way you did the mounting of the FC front subframe?

Doing the same right now, and cant decide on the best method for the rear bolt holes. Also, what was the thickness of the spacer you used for the rear of the subframe?
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 04:19 PM
  #38  
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for the hole i used the fronts to align the frame. for the rear you need a spacer to level the frame out. i have varied it from 1/2" to 3/4" over the times I have done it without much real study. Then i mark upward and determine the hole. i rather long as bolt and a plate from up top and weld the top in, works good.
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Old Dec 20, 2014 | 12:38 AM
  #39  
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 06:57 AM
  #40  
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Opted for the toyota 8" and a four link. This will be the strongest and simplest. Probably best handling to boot.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 03:11 PM
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I was gonna say, that's the weirdest FD rear end I've ever seen Good choice on the Toyota rear - should hold up really well.

Where did you get the axles re-drilled to 4 lug? Is the 4 link your design, you make all the brackets and such?
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 11:14 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 82transam
I was gonna say, that's the weirdest FD rear end I've ever seen Good choice on the Toyota rear - should hold up really well.

Where did you get the axles re-drilled to 4 lug? Is the 4 link your design, you make all the brackets and such?
i took it to an axle shop with the rotor i wanted to use. pop it on a lathe and turn it down so that the rotor fits. Then redrilled. helps to have the studs with you to boot. all the brackets were made. The design is modeled after the Ford Escort Mk2 rally prep manual
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 12:15 AM
  #43  
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something that might be confused for progress!

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Old May 27, 2016 | 09:44 PM
  #44  
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some more progress. Kind boring to talk about connecting and mounting stuff. BUT the Ford T5 is in. Various other things done.


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Old May 27, 2016 | 11:55 PM
  #45  
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Stupid pedal box and a stupid power steering cooler installation.

Bet that felt stupid.

Alex, I love you buddy, this thing is turning out SO NICE!


3yrs, ya? 3yrs until we each can ride in each others' cars. Lap of Luxury vs. Gravel in MaPants and Sideways.
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 06:05 PM
  #46  
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more done. Steering is all wrapped up. Subaru brake booster is in. Steering shaft is also finished. The toyota brake caliper mounts arrived too. 3.5" spacering for the caliper mount. Ill see what i wind up using.

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Last edited by Whizbang; Jun 6, 2016 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 06:16 PM
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 11:10 PM
  #48  
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So here is what I have. Toyota 4runner axle. An 8" and as I now regret, ABS equipped one. Machined the axles to fit a saab 900 rotor in 4x4.5.

Caliper wise, i tried fitting volvo 240 rears but the bottom inlet for hydraulics kinda sucks for clearance. I then acquired a bracket that mounts Toyota calipers but the saab rotor is 280mm and the toyota is ~300 so the rotor i have is too small, but the alignment is perfect.

I hate this car.

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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 11:11 PM
  #49  
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the fancy brakcets looks like this


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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 11:13 PM
  #50  
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my solution will likely be a wilwood brake bell in 1.96 offset for 8 x 7 rotor lug pattern blank. then drill for my 4x4.5 and center bore. Get a solid, nonvented 11.75" rotor (~300mm) and call it good. The caliper mount can have one of the four tabs removed since three is more than two and two is plenty already. Then i can rotate the caliper to about 1 oclock position and avoid piling in the dirt that seems to occur with front mounted calipers.
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