Well this is it! Rotrex Supercharger Has been ordered!!!
#76
Here's some dyno charts from other cars to give you an idea of power curves from this charger.
The first two are from an S2000, with the first one running 5psi and the second running 10psi, the other one is from a CRX with a K20 running 10psi. I consider those pretty flat ...
The first two are from an S2000, with the first one running 5psi and the second running 10psi, the other one is from a CRX with a K20 running 10psi. I consider those pretty flat ...
#78
Terrified.
I think when most of us think flat we think "Torque hits low and stays steady throughout the revs." That is what the most of us would call very linear. Either way, it looks like a great addition.
#84
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So why did you decide to use serpentine pulleys instead of a Gilmer drive setup? Was it just for ease of sourcing replacement belts?
At least it should have a lot less rotating mass than the 7" Camden I was using. Horrible belt slippage no matter how tight it was.
At least it should have a lot less rotating mass than the 7" Camden I was using. Horrible belt slippage no matter how tight it was.
#86
Yes I'm using the serpentine belt for the ease of replacement and the lower cost. it won't be as easy to slip too because its gearing efficiency is so high (about 98%) vs a camdem which would be closer to 60% , that's a lot of wasted energy and would make it harder to spin putting more resistance to belt. I have seen setups run them with a 4 groove belt, but the 6 groove is more common and normally easier to source off the shelf, along with the added assurance that it just won't slip as easily with the extra contact on there. the belt will have over 180 degrees of contact to it also, with the addition of a spring loaded tensioner, I really don't see this belt slipping so easily.
#87
the double groove pulleys are already available on re-speed website for the alternator.
I might be making a replacement 4 groove pulley to replace that and the water pump one though, also a better tensioner for the alternator instead of that groove bracket that always slips down.
I might be making a replacement 4 groove pulley to replace that and the water pump one though, also a better tensioner for the alternator instead of that groove bracket that always slips down.
#89
35r 13b first gen
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the double groove pulleys are already available on re-speed website for the alternator.
I might be making a replacement 4 groove pulley to replace that and the water pump one though, also a better tensioner for the alternator instead of that groove bracket that always slips down.
I might be making a replacement 4 groove pulley to replace that and the water pump one though, also a better tensioner for the alternator instead of that groove bracket that always slips down.
#93
Well I just finished designing the first pulley measuring 80mm a few minutes ago and will be sent out first thing in the morning for getting one machined. The first one that I'll be doing will most likely be just out of steel just to be a bit cheaper on it and to make sure that everything lines up properly first. If all goes well a second one out of aluminum will be made
#94
Function > Form
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It's more expensive to machine one out of aluminum than steel? 6061T6 is a good $20 cheaper for a 12" length of 3" rod on McMaster compared to the same piece in a low-carbon steel like 1018. That, and aluminum is so much easier to machine than steel. I'm curious what rationale the machine shop gave you for that pricing, it doesn't make sense to my student mind.
#96
It might be cheaper out of Aluminum ... I actually haven't priced them out yet, I just assumed, and I did think of it easier to machine earlier on this morning. I posted that at 3am and didn't really think too much of what I was posting at the time.
I did the pulley just on AutoCad. My buddy will be turning the pulleys for me as he has the proper cutting tool and cut path for the ribbed portion. Other wise I could of done it myself and besides I'm so busy right now its actually kinda ridiculous ... Between running my car detailing business (people wanting their cars clean before storing), working at the restaurant a few nights a week, just doing random machining and welding repairs for people, and trying to find a big shop to purchase another business ontop of all that ... Ya, I'm a workaholic ... and no I can't find time for a girl in my life now lol.
I did the pulley just on AutoCad. My buddy will be turning the pulleys for me as he has the proper cutting tool and cut path for the ribbed portion. Other wise I could of done it myself and besides I'm so busy right now its actually kinda ridiculous ... Between running my car detailing business (people wanting their cars clean before storing), working at the restaurant a few nights a week, just doing random machining and welding repairs for people, and trying to find a big shop to purchase another business ontop of all that ... Ya, I'm a workaholic ... and no I can't find time for a girl in my life now lol.
#98
The brackets will most likely be done in MDF wood first though for its cheap price then aluminum or steel ones will be done. the reason I say steel now is because I don't know if I can fit a piece of aluminum strong enough in there .... I think I only have about 1/4 " or so between the charger and belt
#99
Well the pulley will be made out of aluminum, Ill have it on hand hopefully in a couple of days time. I had to well up some mufflers for my buddy in exchange for it ... then I have to finish his headers. He's building a full tube chassis car with the fiberglass body being the latest generation Honda civic, but in a widebody form, the power plant is a nsx engine with ITB custom ground cams .... quite the beast it should be! I have to do all the engine management wiring and tuning on it also .