The turbo gRoadster 7
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charleston

Na, I'm not done yet. I've gotta poke a hole in the top and run my 1/4 20 rod down in the carb. I got 1/4 20 cause Lows doesn't stock M8 threaded rod. So, I'll weld an M8 bolt to the 1/4 20 rod... done.
Did you end up keeping your boost reference on the top of the carb hat, or was there a better spot?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charleston
I copied Jeff.
4" exhaust piping. I droped by an exhaust shop and asked for some scrap metal.
I used my turbo MX6 blowoff valve pipe (that was already hacked up) and welded that in place on the side of the pipe.
The base is just the factory blue air cleaner lid cut to crap to get it to fit in a 4" exhaust. Its a SUPER tight squeeze.
The top is just some sheet metal I have. I think its for a filing cabinet or something IDK I found a **** load of it at my buddies house and I've used it on several projects.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charleston
There done.
All sealed up. At least for now.
The only thing I'm concerned about is the float height. the floats got messed up when I moved last December. Oh well, I put it back to the FSM spec, but I've fought this battle on many carbs.... And I know its an ANNOYING battle.
All sealed up. At least for now.
The only thing I'm concerned about is the float height. the floats got messed up when I moved last December. Oh well, I put it back to the FSM spec, but I've fought this battle on many carbs.... And I know its an ANNOYING battle.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charleston
Back from holiday and my next step for the car was waiting at my door. 
"lo" springs. Figure I'll give them a shot at least until I can find some RB springs.
KYB strut inserts and shocks and strut mounts.
4 link bushings; just a re-fresher for the car.
and a dryer and some 152a diflorothane.
Now all I need is a day off.

"lo" springs. Figure I'll give them a shot at least until I can find some RB springs.
KYB strut inserts and shocks and strut mounts.
4 link bushings; just a re-fresher for the car.
and a dryer and some 152a diflorothane.
Now all I need is a day off.
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Columbia, Tennessee
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charleston
In the absence of O2* it shouldn't burn. Leaks near ignition might flare up..... BUT....
*inside the A/C system (if operating properly) shouldn't have oxygen.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charleston
That's the source of the difluoroethane. Like methane octane butane and all of the other hydrocarbons it IS highly flammable... but there isn't oxygen in the system so it shouldn't pop, but if I develop a leak it will be easy to find. Just use a lighter. 
134 didn't cut it for me. It runs at too high of a pressure. I had high pressure leaks (and new lines didn't help).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1-Difluoroethane

134 didn't cut it for me. It runs at too high of a pressure. I had high pressure leaks (and new lines didn't help).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1-Difluoroethane
Did you try replacing the o rings, if you want to try it, i can send you some, just tell me what size you need. Also when you replace them, you should coat them with ac oil, the type depends on what refrigerant you use
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charleston
It leaked from the high pressure hose that goes strait into the condenser. No O-rings there.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charleston
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 213
From: Charleston
ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Super uncool flooding issues. Sticky needles (god knows when the last time this carb ran), BUT it runs without oil squirting out of the turbo or return line (I was concerned about that).
The exhaust is the PERFECT note, but a little loud. I'm ok with the amount of noise it makes.
And the post man showed up with my new wheels and adaptors so I can put good name brand tires on my car.
EDIT: oh yeah and the sky decided I worked on the car enough for one day. Maybe tomorrow won't be so rainy.

Super uncool flooding issues. Sticky needles (god knows when the last time this carb ran), BUT it runs without oil squirting out of the turbo or return line (I was concerned about that).
The exhaust is the PERFECT note, but a little loud. I'm ok with the amount of noise it makes.
And the post man showed up with my new wheels and adaptors so I can put good name brand tires on my car.
EDIT: oh yeah and the sky decided I worked on the car enough for one day. Maybe tomorrow won't be so rainy.
Last edited by Qingdao; Sep 10, 2015 at 05:06 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charleston
I re-used the factory seats, but new needles. I might have to adjust the float heights. They got buggerd up in the move to Columbia. Part of me wants to buy another Nikki from CL and hope the floats aren't messed up.
Dunno I still have another day off I can mess with it.
I gotcha. New needles in OEM seats can work, but they do tend to get hung up so you need to babysit them. As for setting float height, you may find that they will need to be adjusted periodically as the needles "burnish in". Maybe after 50 to 100 miles they'll settle down but will still require you to keep an eye on them, otherwise it will tend to overfill the bowls from time to time.
I just tested a carb top with a known condition exactly like this yesterday. Every time I'd put the top back on after a jet change and turn the key on, I'd need to run the fuel pump for a few seconds, turn it off, then run it again and it usually works. It didn't flood out at all yesterday because I babysat it every time. I tried four jet sizes until it was pretty good for a freshly assembled carb. This of course required four times I payed attention to the floats.
While it runs, it's right in the middle.
I just tested a carb top with a known condition exactly like this yesterday. Every time I'd put the top back on after a jet change and turn the key on, I'd need to run the fuel pump for a few seconds, turn it off, then run it again and it usually works. It didn't flood out at all yesterday because I babysat it every time. I tried four jet sizes until it was pretty good for a freshly assembled carb. This of course required four times I payed attention to the floats.
While it runs, it's right in the middle.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charleston



Good to see someone from the family. I can't wait to be an ex-employee.

So the word is FLOAT HEIGHT. Well two words.
At any rate the fuel levels are now in the middle of the window as they should be. But I flooded it so bad yesterday it stumbled and spat at me all day today. I'm still only like 200 or so miles on a rebuild and I haven't changed the oil yet so I'm hesitant to go over 4k. I also haven't left the driveway. My oil return line NEEDS replacement. I NEED a vacuum hose or line for the brake booster. And I might need a turbo (but I can't tell from the amount of oil leaking from the return line)
But I did make it official.... TURBO. If only I could find an artsy person to stamp NIKKI POWERED under the turbo emblem I'd be good.
Clean those plugs man! After a bad flood from crappy aftermarket seats, my plugs haven't quite been the same. They still work after a cleaning but I'll throw some new ones in at some point.
I like the very much work-in-progress picture.
I like the very much work-in-progress picture.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 213
From: Charleston
One step ahead. I spun the engine over a few times when I had the plugs out. The engine spit fuel out of those holes like a mad man.
Yeah, its a mess in there right now. I guess now it runs I should be focused on making it more presentable, and less fire hazard.





