And this is why I am not allowed to reuse apex seals & springs.

You can really see where the gases were blowing by. I looked closer at the seal and it is thicker on one side than the other. Makes me wonder WTF was I thinking????


And now armed with NEW apex seals, and bearings/e shaft. Lets do it again

 

SPOILER!!!


Engine is done, just have to do the end shaft play dance.

 

That's always fun. What numbers are you going for?

 

Wait. There are different numbers other than stock? What's wrong with less than 35 thousandths?

 

.002" to .003" is good to aim for, but .0035" is the sloppy side of stock spec. Or is it? It's been a while. I just go for .002" to .003" and call it good.

 

The book says .0035 is acceptable, but its the limit. .0016-.0028 is the goal.


At this point I'd love .0035... I've got nadda. I have a K spacer and 0 end shaft play. I also have a slimmer spacer, but obviously that won't help get more clearance. So back to Mazdatrix.

 

Try torqing the front bolt with a jack under the flywheel or with the flywheel sitting on the ground. That helps keep tension on everything while you tighten the hub down.

 

I jam a pry bar in the flywheel, and thread a bolt in one of the mating holes. It also doubles as a good place to clamp on the runout gauge.

Maybe one day, if I get bored enough, I might take a ring gear and cut/weld it to make a flywheel immobilizer, but until that day comes the prybar will work.


I'm hesitant to get the largest spacer from Mazdatrix. I just don't think .06mm is gonna give me any extra clearance. I might have mucked something up. I haven't checked the front bearing, but that might not have gotten pressed in completely. I guess I'll know in a few minutes after I relax a bit.

 

You have a very short oil filler tube. How did you manage that?

 

dunno... It was there when I got the engine.

 

I mean flip the engine on the stand so the flywheel faces the ground. Stick a jack under it and jack up til the flywheel has all its slack relieved. Then torque the hub down.

Use a small bit of chain as a flywheel stop.

 

hehe... engine stand.


Ok. everything was assembled by the book.... I shoved a feeler gauge in between the counterweight and the oil pump drive gear to test if a slight amount of extra would give me clearance. It did. Unfortunately my feeler gauges have long since rusted over so I have NO idea what addition I need.




I've used those feeler gauges for a few things all of which are bent in certain places. Like bent here means CB550 valve clearance. Bent here means T500 points gap etc etc etc.

 

Try assembling the front stack with the flywheel on the ground. With the weight of the enging on the flywheel ya know. It will free up some slack trust me.

 

YAY Mazdatrix. super fast shipping too.

 

Haha. Who says you can't use an engine lift on grass!


Well I got it in there all bolted up and what not.... Then turn the key and spin spin spin. No fuel. Agggh the fuel pump is inop for whatever reason.

Oh well, I was gonna put on the COMP 140 soon here anyways. I guess sooner is happening rather than latter.


On the positive side of things. 105#s compression on the front housing, 100#s on the rear rotor... I think we're in business.

 

A ratchet strap to hold the engine crane in place? Ingenious!

 

Gettin' there! Keep going! Keep going!

 

I used the straps to pull the cherry picker to the car, or pull the car to it. It was a little bit of both action. But it worked.


I'm gonna try to put 200 or 300 miles on the edlebrock then make my move to boost and Nikki.


I've been thinking that the giant fuel pump (comp140) might require more juice than the factory one. I might want to run a dedicated power wire to it. Just so it doesn't run hot.

 

You should make your move to the Nikki now, but I understand why you might not just yet. You're more familiar with the Edelbrock and know how it responds on a fresh rebuild.

Remimd me: how far along is your Nikki?

 

Almost done. Venturis bored/pounded back in, accelerator pump gaskets cut, and jets drilled. I just have to assemble it for the most part. I'm still reading the Boost prep a Nikki thread.


The next step (after making the thing run at all) is to make the direct fire system work. I have another Diamond brand coil and another bracket I'm gonna use. That's part of the reason for not going to boost immediately.

 

Cool, you're making progress. I'm working on four Nikkis. Just tore down number three and used chemdip on it due to lots of gum and varnish. You know, the one gallon can of nastiness that smells wonderful. A Nikki main body will fit in it. Now I need to clean the top but it won't fit.

 

Installed my BIG V8 fuel pump.

It bolted up to existing bolt holes for the hard lines over the axle. I got lucky. I threw on some orings behind the mount; I hope that will absorb any vibrations this enormous thing might make.


When I pulled my tank I noticed some surface rust on top of it. I got that tank from an old 79' SA; so I cleaned off the surface rust.

I'm gonna run my fuel return line in through the port on the very tip top of the SA tank. I think its supposed to be some kind of flip over shutoff or something, but its a fuel return port now.

 

Fuel return

OOOOOH MAN the "pucker factor" was high. I washed that tank out a lot and let it sit for a few days but I'm always nervous welding fuel tanks.

If you look close you can see where I had to braze a patch on this tank already.




The return goes strait from the Mallory 4309 to an AN 6 line back to the AN fitting on the tank. I shouldn't have to worry about return pressure.

 

There.... Tank installed back in the car, giant return line installed, giant fuel pump installed (and operational), and we are almost green light.


When I put the power to the used Comp140 the first time nothing happened. So I took it apart and apparently when it was removed from the donor car it was yanked out of there by the wiring. The spade to the brushes on the inside of the motor were un-attached.

OK that issue fixed, re-installed and still no go???!

Took the pump BACK off and the impeller thingy was a little bit ruff to turn. Cleaned and oiled it and slapped the pump again on the car.


NOW THAT THING CAN MOVE SOME FUEL!!!!!!!!!!! Good god!!!! I've seen bilge pumps that would struggle to keep up with that little bandit.

 

Great job with your build. Where did you get that plate on the gas tank that has the an fitting