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Old 01-14-09, 03:29 AM
  #26  
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oh really the manual is 17? dayum i thot it'd be more like 20
Old 01-14-09, 01:08 PM
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is your "new" gsl-se hit in the back by the tail lights? if it is, then i used to own it.

its fairly rare, its the shaded glass painted mirrors version, build date is 4/1/85 and it was sold new at either oak tree or almaden mazda, so its a local car.
Old 01-14-09, 02:55 PM
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at rockauto tie rods are 20 per end and adjusting sleeves under 10, what's the problem?
Old 01-14-09, 03:01 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
is your "new" gsl-se hit in the back by the tail lights? if it is, then i used to own it.

its fairly rare, its the shaded glass painted mirrors version, build date is 4/1/85 and it was sold new at either oak tree or almaden mazda, so its a local car.
There is a bondo repair on the back and the left tail light is missing...
The bondo job is horrible, they didn't pull the metal out enough and used a non-urethene bondo because its cracked all the way to the base metal.

If it is your car, then I assume its your name on the title? If so I need to talk to you later about that.
Old 01-14-09, 03:03 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by tasty danish
at rockauto tie rods are 20 per end and adjusting sleeves under 10, what's the problem?
Ah, cool! I was looking at the rock auto stuff, but I wasn't sure that the quality was good since I never really heard of their brand.

I was looking at some Moog stuff from Partsamerica.com
Old 01-14-09, 11:57 PM
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How much you want for the 12a? Can you ship to Kansas?
Old 01-15-09, 03:24 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by NOVALVES
How much you want for the 12a? Can you ship to Kansas?
PM Sent
Old 01-15-09, 03:25 PM
  #33  
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By the way, what is a good way to remove the bushings? I can't press them out, and i really am not leaning to the burning them out idea.

Do you think drilling out the rubber and prying them out would work?
Old 01-15-09, 10:02 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by DemonSpawn67
By the way, what is a good way to remove the bushings? I can't press them out, and i really am not leaning to the burning them out idea.

Do you think drilling out the rubber and prying them out would work?
What are you pressing them with?
Old 01-16-09, 12:39 AM
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which bushings? i doubt that drilling them out will work very well
Old 01-16-09, 01:10 AM
  #36  
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I am not pressing them out, I have a crowbar, a hammer, and wrenches and junk... I can use small diameter drills to drill out some of teh rubber and sort of squeeze them out.

But I'm not sure how to approach it.

BTW if you're wondering $221 for x4 Moog Tie Rod Ends and x2 Adjusting Sleeves from Moog, Expensive, but at least they're quality parts.
Old 01-16-09, 01:55 AM
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ah well it all depends on teh rubber.. how bad it is i guess
Old 01-16-09, 10:03 AM
  #38  
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You can't really drill through the bushing material. It just twists up around the drill bit instead of drilling out. I tried this when I was doing the suspension on my 83 GS. The easiest way by FAR is to burn them out with a torch. Just make sure that you have a bucket to catch them in. When you burn them out they leave a black tar substance behind. DON"T GET IT ON ANYTHING THAT YOU DON"T WANT TO BE PERMANENTLY RUINED! That's why the bucket comes in so handy.
Old 01-16-09, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DemonSpawn67
Ah, cool! I was looking at the rock auto stuff, but I wasn't sure that the quality was good since I never really heard of their brand.

I was looking at some Moog stuff from Partsamerica.com
rockauto stocks moog. that's actually the parts used in my reply. you can get other parts from them for like 15. I recommend moog though.
Old 01-16-09, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by DemonSpawn67
There is a bondo repair on the back and the left tail light is missing...
The bondo job is horrible, they didn't pull the metal out enough and used a non-urethene bondo because its cracked all the way to the base metal.

If it is your car, then I assume its your name on the title? If so I need to talk to you later about that.
the car got hit twice... its been around, but the guy who fixed it up, had it painted silver, then right after it got hit, so he had it fixed (the bondo job). he sold the car, then it got hit agian!

i bought it after that, and it sat, then the guy i bought it from needed a car and bought it back.

sent you a PM about the title
Old 01-16-09, 07:35 PM
  #41  
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Sweet! I own a bumper car no one really wants!
Old 01-17-09, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
the car got hit twice... its been around, but the guy who fixed it up, had it painted silver, then right after it got hit, so he had it fixed (the bondo job). he sold the car, then it got hit agian!

i bought it after that, and it sat, then the guy i bought it from needed a car and bought it back.

sent you a PM about the title
Wow... it had been around.
Old 01-17-09, 11:57 AM
  #43  
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Anyone know what size bolt the Tension/torsion/Strut bar is? My 24mm won't fit it, and I'm just going to go buy a socket for it so I can replace the bushings.

Oh, sorry for not posting any updates either, between My mother getting horribly sick, work calling me in for an extra day and normal work hours, I haven't been able to work on the poor bastard child.
Old 01-18-09, 01:48 AM
  #44  
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This is great your at least salvaging the good parts of the wrecked 7 and your still in the 7 game! I just flipped mine over and it's totaled. But this threads giving me some hope to get another and REVIVE it. Thanks! Can't wait till I can do the same.
Old 01-18-09, 12:53 PM
  #45  
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Drilling out bushings works fine, Use a 1/8" drill bit. Drill a hole at the boundry layer between the rubber and the steel, The bit will grab the steel and walk all the way around the inside of the arm. The fun part is cleaning up what's left. I used a drill with a wire wheel followed by a sanding drum.

As for your 2 fuel tanks. While the older one is a 12A, the S3 tanks are nearly identical, except for the pickup assembly and the sump.
Old 01-18-09, 01:03 PM
  #46  
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just burn them out. i cleaned the charred rubber out with a flathead screwdriver. Slowly I got enough out to start pushing on the bushing. The steel was hot by this point, but not red hot, so the rubber melted and the bushings popped out pretty easily. burn out the residue, and use bolts, washers, and a socket to press in the new bushings.
Old 01-18-09, 06:48 PM
  #47  
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I'm glad that I was able to inspire someone to try and recover their own wrecked seven, that makes me feel like I've actually accomplished something by making this thread.

Didn't do much today except transfer over the hardlines to the shell...

I kept looking at the steering box and I've decided that I don't like it and its coming out!

LoL, tommorrow I will either be doing the steering swap or just transfering over interior pieces... Haven't decided yet.
Old 01-19-09, 11:12 AM
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i guess i'll head over today
Old 01-19-09, 12:53 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by DemonSpawn67
Sweet! I own a bumper car no one really wants!
it lived in SF... the p.o. has a trailer and people hit that too...
Old 01-23-09, 10:04 AM
  #50  
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Hey guys, just updating you on what's happening.

Started classes this week so I haven't been working on the car much, and its going to be raining for the rest of the week.

But I managed to nab the front suspension and some other bits, so I've been snadblasting them and will paint them and take pictures when I am done.

I also started dissasembly on the S4 Engine I have and will take pictures of that next week after the intake and exhaust comes off so we can see the inside condition of it.


Sorry for the lack of pictures, between feeling like ****, school, and work i haven't done much I thought was picture worthy.


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