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Nope. I got it from my friend who is going 3 rotor who I bought the motor from. Motor, 9180 kit, ps1000, patch harness, custom lim, rails, haltech egt, engine harness, downpipe, extra ID's, and a bunch more all in one big expensive purchase. I'll be updating my thread with pics this weekend, new job has me too busy to do it during the week.
Nope. I got it from my friend who is going 3 rotor who I bought the motor from. Motor, 9180 kit, ps1000, patch harness, custom lim, rails, haltech egt, engine harness, downpipe, extra ID's, and a bunch more all in one big expensive purchase. I'll be updating my thread with pics this weekend, new job has me too busy to do it during the week.
Skeese
Hopefully we get these things done in a year or two and can enjoy them in the canyons.
Grade 5 Titanium Alloy 6AL4V Lug Nuts for the Rx7!
These will mate nicely with the MS-02s. I'm still debating on adding some accent colors to them and repairing the lips...It'll be pricey and I'd rather fund the drivability portions first.
This is my perfectly designed 4-link without the coilovers installed (sitting on bumpstops). DANG, did it come together nice or what?
Last edited by RGHTBrainDesign; 01-07-17 at 09:34 PM.
Thats gotta feel good to have the car on the ground. How come you didn't try to have full bump lower than it is? were you having issues running into the existing rear floor?
Thats gotta feel good to have the car on the ground. How come you didn't try to have full bump lower than it is? were you having issues running into the existing rear floor?
Actually, I just thought about that. My coilovers have their own bumpstops, so I technically don't need these (that the car is sitting on). So I think we should measure out what contact will be, I'll run a quick calculation on the durometer of the rubber bushing vs. estimated forces at the axle, and yea, we can cut that bumpstop down.
The inside still needs work (reinforcement and boxing) and the front lower mount can't be right (it's supposed to be sitting around 5" off the ground), but definitely some great progress here.
Just take the rubber bump stops off completely and then make sure that when the coilovers are bottomed out with no bump stop on them that there is no metal on metal contact. Don't need any calculations if you assume the bump stop will squish to nothing
New Intercooler Dimensions fixed... It'll be 28"x12"x4.5" Core with 2.75" In (Passenger Side) and 2.75" Out (Driver Side).
Still waiting to see if I'll end up running the Full Race IWG setup or make my own, but the downpipe design is mostly finalized at this point. Pretty ******' cool divided setup.
Last edited by RGHTBrainDesign; 07-26-17 at 10:30 PM.
Don't worry y'all, this most definitely hasn't died out.
The S5 Turbo that I ordered won't be in until 2/20 at the earliest.
Good news is I think I figured out the final setup for the front suspension, and rear suspension is almost finalized. Engine bay needs a few new goodies for all of this to work, and once I get my tax return, I'll show up with 215/40-17s on the 17x8 MS-02s. They aren't ideal, but the car will roll properly and drive properly on these until I figure out the fender situation (mainly for height).
235/40-17 was the intended size for the 17x8s. Now that I can rock 245/40-15s since that size is back in production, I might hunt down a 5x114.3 15x9 wheel. Or of course, the go big or go home figure of 255/40-17s on a 5x114.3 17x9. Yea right...that's a lot of fender massaging, especially on the front of the front fenders (due to caster).
So, once the Turbo comes in, I can dismantle it and spec out just what I need to create my own manifold with the 9174. If it ends up needing too much additional space to clear the Intake Manifold, then I'll go with Full Race and end up having to use the shittier 0.92 A/R IWG from a 8374. Ideally I'd want 1.00 to 1.15 A/R.
We decided on trying to cram the larger 12" long intercooler core. It'll handle temps better for my application, period. The only real downside is needing a swirl pot for the radiator since it'll be below the water pump and we still need to be able to fill/bleed the system properly. No big deal.
I just want to see some parts before moving forward. The Integra is still down too, which is the main delay.
FWIW, I run 17x7 205/40/17 on the front and 17x8 235/40/17 at the rear.
Front camber was -1.0 and front caster +5.5.
Lowered by a considerable amount front and rear.
It all fits with no issues other than slightly fouling at full lock combined with bump at the front. This would be solved by simply rolling the guards.
More neg camber would also provide more clearance.
Now this is with standard struts and coils (and perch). With coilovers, I'd have another inch on the inside. 17x8 would therefore likely fit with 215/40/17.
The key is proper offset on the wheels. I have custom 3 piece wheels and was able to make the offset whatever I wanted. This is with Australian manufactured Simmons wheels.
I am always bewildered by the American 1st gens with 7 inch wheels somehow requiring flares due to incorrect offset. The Group C cars that ran flares here have 15x10 inch wheels with 285 wide tyres. That's when you need flares, assuming wheel offset is correct.
FWIW, I run 17x7 205/40/17 on the front and 17x8 235/40/17 at the rear.
Front camber was -1.0 and front caster +5.5.
Lowered by a considerable amount front and rear.
It all fits with no issues other than slightly fouling at full lock combined with bump at the front. This would be solved by simply rolling the guards.
More neg camber would also provide more clearance.
Now this is with standard struts and coils (and perch). With coilovers, I'd have another inch on the inside. 17x8 would therefore likely fit with 215/40/17.
The key is proper offset on the wheels. I have custom 3 piece wheels and was able to make the offset whatever I wanted. This is with Australian manufactured Simmons wheels.
I am always bewildered by the American 1st gens with 7 inch wheels somehow requiring flares due to incorrect offset. The Group C cars that ran flares here have 15x10 inch wheels with 285 wide tyres. That's when you need flares, assuming wheel offset is correct.
Thanks KYPREO, I appreciate the input. I hope to run a square tire setup due to the canyon/handling aspect of my build. It will have electronically (ECU) controlled hydraulic powersteering from the 2nd Gen Rx7 so going too wide won't ruin the driving experience.
As we both know, it's not the width that's the problem in the front (I can easily tuck 225/45-15s right now), but rather the overall tire diameter (those are 23", and 235/40-17 is 24.4"). 205/40-17 is 23.5, 215/40-17 is 23.8", so I'm almost positive the fender guard as you say (front of fender) will need some massaging.
The car will sit at a Gentlemen's Low, in which I have a balanced height, not slammed. Our roads in California might as well be the Australian Outback with gravel and huge potholes.
Yes I think you're right. As it turns out 205/40/17 is slightly smaller rolling diameter than factory 84-85 models with the 114.3x4 bolt pattern and bigger brakes, which came with 205/60/14. This is precisely why I chose that size - to keep rolling diameter small and allow some lowering.
In order to avoid confusion, I should also clarify "guard" in Australia means fender. By roll the guard, I mean roll the lip of the fender. It gets even more confusing, because in the UK guards/fenders are called "wings" lol
My subframe and rack and pinion from a s5 is going in now. I am attempting to use the electronic hydraulic pump from a Holden (Opel) Astra. This is not a speed sensitive pump but appears to use some kind of rising rate system to increase output as required steering effort increases. Not sure it will work that way, we'll see. My fallback will be to use the mechanical hydraulic pump from the s5 and figure out how to control the pressure valve without the factory controller. I'll be interested to see how yours go so we can compare notes.
Yes I think you're right. As it turns out 205/40/17 is slightly smaller rolling diameter than factory 84-85 models with the 114.3x4 bolt pattern and bigger brakes, which came with 205/60/14. This is precisely why I chose that size - to keep rolling diameter small and allow some lowering.
In order to avoid confusion, I should also clarify "guard" in Australia means fender. By roll the guard, I mean roll the lip of the fender. It gets even more confusing, because in the UK guards/fenders are called "wings" lol
My subframe and rack and pinion from a s5 is going in now. I am attempting to use the electronic hydraulic pump from a Holden (Opel) Astra. This is not a speed sensitive pump but appears to use some kind of rising rate system to increase output as required steering effort increases. Not sure it will work that way, we'll see. My fallback will be to use the mechanical hydraulic pump from the s5 and figure out how to control the pressure valve without the factory controller. I'll be interested to see how yours go so we can compare notes.
The tires that this car came with in "hybrid street/race trim" were 205/60-13s, which is 22.7". Ideally, I want to go 245/40-15s on a 15x9, but I already committed to the 17x8 MS-02s and think they will look incredible.
What I might end up doing is selling the Black Racing wheels (15x8, I believe) and picking up a set of 15x9s. That way I get a street (narrower) commuter tire on the 17s, and a grippier 200 treadwear in 15s.
I have a set of 185/60-15s on the rear of the Rx7 right now which are 23.7" tall. If those fit on the fronts with zero clearance issues, that means I can run a 215/40-17 square.
Ugh, it's a shame. I'm going to mount these beautiful 17x8 Ray's Engineering MazdaSpeed MS-02s and not be able to fit a wide tire on them (because with everything wider, it has to be taller).
i've got 225's on a 15x7 on mine, and its not low, but i have plenty of room. pretty sure i could fit a 15x8 wheel on it, under the stock fenders, but it would be tight everywhere.
knowing what i know now, the Mazda wheel to tire sizing is about right, so 7" wheel gets a 205, 8" wheel gets a 225, 9" wheel gets a 245, its pretty optimal.
i've got 225's on a 15x7 on mine, and its not low, but i have plenty of room. pretty sure i could fit a 15x8 wheel on it, under the stock fenders, but it would be tight everywhere.
knowing what i know now, the Mazda wheel to tire sizing is about right, so 7" wheel gets a 205, 8" wheel gets a 225, 9" wheel gets a 245, its pretty optimal.
Exactly. The problem again being HEIGHT not width. Width wise, it's on 225/45-15s now and they have plenty of room on there with unrolled/flared factory fenders. I'm perfectly fine rolling/flaring, but cutting half of the front of my fender out to fit a 25" tall tire doesn't sound like a good day. Then the car will be SO high off the ground and look slammed at the same time, so it throws off visuals of everything.
01-06-17, 11:06 AM
