Anything labeled TCW-3 is acceptable. I use the big jug of Marine 2-stroke oil from walmart. Cheap, works.
Mix to 1-1.5oz to 1 gal ratio.

OMPs rarely fail. I would check the lines to make sure everything is hooked up properly. Oil lever proper in the pan?

 

I haven’t dropped the oil pan yet, probably should. I did change the oil when I first got it and the oil looked good.

 

OMP runs off the pressurized oil circuit. It just meters out how much oil drips based off of RPMs. So the effects of the OMP are immediate unless you have a line unplugged.

FB and SA oil gauges run a separate ground from the rest of the cluster IIRC. They are very finicky. Common fail point on first gens.

I like to pre-mix with Johnson brand oil. It smokes the least, but if you want smoke use the Quick silver branded oil. Just dump it in. Try for 50:1 but to be honest it doesn't matter your engine will chew it up and spit it out the tail pipe.


EDIT: test your coolant gauge and oil pressure gauges by grounding them out. The needle should bump.

 

Finally got to drive the SE today! It was a fun and rewarding experience. It runs and drives well. It has oh so many ghosts to sort out though. The tachometer, temp gauge, and oil pressure gauge don’t work. The fuel gauge only goes to 3/4. I took the cluster out of the dash and cleaned the contacts that the plugs go into and I even cleaned the copper pads on the PC board material that have screws. Weird. I also need to get the turn signals working. Not sure if the brake lights work either, eeks! I hate electrical gremlins. Oh yeah, the wipers don’t work either, ugh!

I should change the transmission and differential oils. I’ll have to read up on how to do that.

The new brakes turned out sharp and they work well. I ended up replacing basically everything except the hard lines. I did flush those with a solvent and then blew them out super good with dry compressed air.

A kinda funny thing that happened the first night I brought the car home was it started honking on its own in the middle of the night. Turned out that the little plastic spacers that insulate the horn mechanism had all crumbled except one. So, I took measurements off it and 3D printed some new ones. They work well.

 

Nice work man! I'm sure the electrical demons are probably all related if the lights, wipers and gauges aren't behaving. Maybe start near the fuse panel in the car and have a poke around. Were there any signs of mice?

 

Got some more work done on the SE. I pulled out the wiper motor assembly and cleaned it and lined everything up and now it works well. However, I need to find some new wiper blades for it. It takes the old school ones with pin that plugs into hole on the wiper arm. Anyone know where a good source for them is?

In a way I got the blinkers working. I was testing the oil pressure gauge by using a wire to connect the sensor wire to ground. When I did that the gauge didn’t budge so I smacked the dash/instrument cluster to see if it would move then. It did move a little and is now stuck in that spot. Makes me think the gauges are corroded or something. In the meantime, the blinker relay started working, yay! The engine temp gauge isn’t working and I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get the connector off the temp sending unit to test it. I’m afraid I’ll break the wire or connector if I pull too hard on it. Any tips
on how to remove that connector? I’m wondering if it’s worth it to replace the oil pressure sending unit and the engine temperature sending unit?