My project
time for a short update.. things are going forward here now. I painted the car's inside an the engine bay this weekend. So now its time for putting everything together.

And a picture of the intercooler i'm going to use. Size is: 600 x 300 x 76mm

And a picture of the intercooler i'm going to use. Size is: 600 x 300 x 76mm
omg man i think you just made peoples dreams come true.
id love to go wide body but since my car is a 1980 sa with the 4x110 i would have to do so much work to just to get wheels that would look right with a wide body.
if there is any way you could make stock fenders out of carbon fiber i know you would get alot of people wanting them. i would be willing two buy a set of fender to ship to you and i wouldnt ask for a break on them.
i wish i could find a place around where i live, where i could bring a mold to and have a part made out of carbon fiber.
id love to go wide body but since my car is a 1980 sa with the 4x110 i would have to do so much work to just to get wheels that would look right with a wide body.
if there is any way you could make stock fenders out of carbon fiber i know you would get alot of people wanting them. i would be willing two buy a set of fender to ship to you and i wouldnt ask for a break on them.
i wish i could find a place around where i live, where i could bring a mold to and have a part made out of carbon fiber.
i don't mind the 4x110 i like the koing rewinds so I'm set. i just wish i could get a set of stock cf fenders. i all ready know how to make a custom set out of fiber glass.
I'm stuck making my own air dam/grill right now. my borther took my car out and hit a rock
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i really wish there where places in the states i could take a mold to and get some made.
I'm stuck making my own air dam/grill right now. my borther took my car out and hit a rock
. i really wish there where places in the states i could take a mold to and get some made.
i see.
Doesn't sound good, nevere let other people borow your car
If you know how to work with fiberglas it is the same with cf, exept for that you should have the vakuum on the thing you are making while it hardening, the cf is realy hard to get the air out of
Doesn't sound good, nevere let other people borow your car

If you know how to work with fiberglas it is the same with cf, exept for that you should have the vakuum on the thing you are making while it hardening, the cf is realy hard to get the air out of
hey as a side note if you have a spare argon tank pump the gas thru the header. (or any job when welding pipe) it purges the air in side the tubes/pipe and makes for a much stronger weld. think of it this way on the out side of the weld the torch(tig welding) uses argon gas for purging so when the metal is still molten it prevents containments from being pulled in to the weld. but with out purging the inside of the tube/pipes with argon allows containments you be pulled in. no containments in the weld will make it stronger and less likely to rust
for those woundering if iam talking out of my ***, i am a tig welder and tube bender by trade i hold max +/- .02 of a inches on all bending and welding jobs. at work every thing i weld has to be purge inside and out.
for those woundering if iam talking out of my ***, i am a tig welder and tube bender by trade i hold max +/- .02 of a inches on all bending and welding jobs. at work every thing i weld has to be purge inside and out.
well the problem with me working with carbon fiber is that i don't have a vac or a oven. in one of my books it says you can make a mold and lay the carbon fiber strips down and use epoxy and build up layers.this is how i have made fiber glass fenders. but the finish product cf won't be smooth and won't look good raw.
hey as a side note if you have a spare argon tank pump the gas thru the header. (or any job when welding pipe) it purges the air in side the tubes/pipe and makes for a much stronger weld. think of it this way on the out side of the weld the torch(tig welding) uses argon gas for purging so when the metal is still molten it prevents containments from being pulled in to the weld. but with out purging the inside of the tube/pipes with argon allows containments you be pulled in. no containments in the weld will make it stronger and less likely to rust
for those woundering if iam talking out of my ***, i am a tig welder and tube bender by trade i hold max +/- .02 of a inches on all bending and welding jobs. at work every thing i weld has to be purge inside and out.
for those woundering if iam talking out of my ***, i am a tig welder and tube bender by trade i hold max +/- .02 of a inches on all bending and welding jobs. at work every thing i weld has to be purge inside and out.
thanks for the tips, nice to know
are you useing filler rod. if so make sure its the same grade of metal as the pipes. even tho they both mite be stainless steel or mild steel, if the tubes and filler rod are not the same type of stainless or mild steel the weld will be weak.
if your not useing filler rod to get smoother weld pulse the pedal. ie move it like a wah wah pedal . so step on it to get enough heat to get a puddle of metal then back of on the heat then move 1/8 th inch or 5 mm and bring the heat back up to make a puddle and so on.
it will make it so the weld will be flatter on the inside of the pipe. this will air flow little better.
if any one wants tips on welding or bending metal hit me up.
if your not useing filler rod to get smoother weld pulse the pedal. ie move it like a wah wah pedal . so step on it to get enough heat to get a puddle of metal then back of on the heat then move 1/8 th inch or 5 mm and bring the heat back up to make a puddle and so on.
it will make it so the weld will be flatter on the inside of the pipe. this will air flow little better.
if any one wants tips on welding or bending metal hit me up.
assembly has started:

Here i have repainted all the parts, new bearings, grease, rubber protection for the steering, new bolts for everything etc..
The car is comming together now..

Here i have repainted all the parts, new bearings, grease, rubber protection for the steering, new bolts for everything etc..
The car is comming together now..
thnx, trying to make it look as good as possible, but still not so much that i dont have heart to use it, first priority with this car is that it will be built to be driven hard at the track, not only for show
your anti-roll bar is upside down... be a shame to have the car up the right way and realise then. I did the FC subframe conversion a few weeks back on a right hand drive car with a 12A Turbo engine. It was a real bitch getting everything lined up perfectly. So glad I made loads of measurements before I started. Supported the bottom of the collum by making a bracket that secures to the pedal box bolts on the bulkhead. There's a little work involved to make sure the shaft can't move up and down, but will still collapse if there is a front end crash.
Loving your build Norwegian Rotary, fantastic to see such innovation. I'd be very interested in a set of fiberglass wings if you have the time to make them. The summer is not that far away now, good luck!
Loving your build Norwegian Rotary, fantastic to see such innovation. I'd be very interested in a set of fiberglass wings if you have the time to make them. The summer is not that far away now, good luck!



