Matt's T2 FB build (pic heavy)
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
yes it tunes by afr via wideband input. well i would post some finished pics but it appears i had my timing too advanced which really fucked **** up when i started spoolin' up the turbo a bit. result is blown apex seal, **** detonation.
Wow that's awesome I'm so glad to hear that, that's the only reason I was gonna buy a Haltech.
**** that sucks man! I feel bad for you. When mine is done I'm gonna run real low boost until it's fully broken in.
**** that sucks man! I feel bad for you. When mine is done I'm gonna run real low boost until it's fully broken in.
Oops, I posted before I read page 10. That sucks!!
been reading up on Mega Squirt, Oh my, lots of words to read. in the first diagram, is it for a rotary with staged injection? If so, it appears that both primaries fire together as well as secondaries fires together. that would mean the MS3 has 2 low z injector channels. could than use my GSL-SE 680 injectors. I have 4 good ones.
Mazdamike: thanks!
Dhark00: thanks man, what ms do you have?
ill try to explain it the best i can. basically how i start wiring is first find the wiring diagrams than your ecu manufacturer made. im going to be using the ms3 with the ms3x daughter board so my wiring diagrams are these:
Main Plug
MS3x Plug
heres a good link that explains megasquirt wiring, most standalones are very similar wiring wise.
then you have to figure out what sensors you are going to use and how to wire them. when using stock mazda sensors you can find all the wiring pinouts in the mazda wiring diagrams.
the stock sensors im using are:
CAS
FD TPS
T2 knock sensor (hopefully, i haven't looked to see if it will work with the ms3 yet)
FD IAC
aftermarket sensors:
GM 3bar map sensor
GM closed element coolant temp sensor
GM open element air temp sensor
after you figure out all your pinouts cut off all the connectors that you will need plug them into the engine and start running wires. if you have any other questions feel free to post in this thread.
Dhark00: thanks man, what ms do you have?
ill try to explain it the best i can. basically how i start wiring is first find the wiring diagrams than your ecu manufacturer made. im going to be using the ms3 with the ms3x daughter board so my wiring diagrams are these:
Main Plug
MS3x Plug
heres a good link that explains megasquirt wiring, most standalones are very similar wiring wise.
then you have to figure out what sensors you are going to use and how to wire them. when using stock mazda sensors you can find all the wiring pinouts in the mazda wiring diagrams.
the stock sensors im using are:
CAS
FD TPS
T2 knock sensor (hopefully, i haven't looked to see if it will work with the ms3 yet)
FD IAC
aftermarket sensors:
GM 3bar map sensor
GM closed element coolant temp sensor
GM open element air temp sensor
after you figure out all your pinouts cut off all the connectors that you will need plug them into the engine and start running wires. if you have any other questions feel free to post in this thread.
Last edited by HRnico; Oct 19, 2012 at 11:00 PM. Reason: had not read page 10
How were you staying out of boost to this point. I've been wondering how to keep from boosting until I get over the fear. wire waste gate open or maybe dump compressed air overboard and put an air cleaner TB inlet. Brave man you are Matt. You'll get this turned round quick.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
i wired the injectors sequentually with the outputs on the ms3x card. injector A went Primary 1 and injector b to primary 2 and etc. it is really hard to stay out of boost, but if i would have double checked my damn timing i would be in a much better place.
Good luck getting it rebuilt again...
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
tore it down tonight. just the tip of one apex seal on the rear rotor broke. the housing doesnt appear to have any damage at all. Ive heard that atkins seals aren't too hard on housings, but im still suprised there isn't any marks. im placing an order at atkins tomorrow for the parts i need, should have it by the end of the week so i can rebuild this thing. Ill post a pic of the seal that broke tomorrow.
Wow lucky! I wouldn't go with the Atkins seals man. I did tons of research before I built my motor I would just go with OEM seals if I were you, they withstand detonation better than the Atkins seals. Atkins are pretty soft and don't do as much damage when they do blow, that's the advantage of them.
I made the mistake of using they're solid corner seals to save a few bucks, only to find afterwards that there is some guys complaining of increased step wear on street driven motors.
I made the mistake of using they're solid corner seals to save a few bucks, only to find afterwards that there is some guys complaining of increased step wear on street driven motors.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
yeah atkins seals are soft, thats why i bought them. id rather change lots apex seals learning to tune and beating on my engine instead of lots of housings lol. i know of a few turbo guys making over 350hp on these seals and dont have any problems, you just cant detonate.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
just make sure ur timing is right and you dont go lean and ull be fine.
When you say your timing was to advanced, was that a value that was in the base map?
What do you think it should be? I had an idea to stay out of boost, you think this would work? Take the pill out of the waste gate line and run the line direct from turbo outlet to WG?
What do you think it should be? I had an idea to stay out of boost, you think this would work? Take the pill out of the waste gate line and run the line direct from turbo outlet to WG?
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Spokane,WA.
Hey this is a great thread for a newbie the pics help a bunch
I don’t even know have the stuff you are talking about all the abbreviated words
no biggie just means I have to read more here
good job Matt
I don’t even know have the stuff you are talking about all the abbreviated words
no biggie just means I have to read more here
good job Matt
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
^^ Thanks, if you any questions at any point feel free to ask.
Nico- my timing was wrong because i set the static timing wrong. im running off the wastegate spring by running a vac line straight to it.
after staying up til nearly 1am last night, my engine is stacked again. gunna put it back in the car and get it running today.
Nico- my timing was wrong because i set the static timing wrong. im running off the wastegate spring by running a vac line straight to it.
after staying up til nearly 1am last night, my engine is stacked again. gunna put it back in the car and get it running today.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
ok, so here is a couple of the car with my gay new wheels (13's with 175's) and a rear pic for the exhaust, i had an underhood shot but my camera wont let me get it off. so will do that again tomorrow.
