Matt's T2 FB build (pic heavy)
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
well, got coolant in it and started it up again, seems like its only running on one rotor. im going to check all the megasquirt settings, something is not quite right. is that whats going on for you too sean? or does yours fire on both rotors for sure?
Mine is firing on both. Once it's past the horrors that is my startup/warmup procedure it actually runs fairly smooth (sort of) smooth enough that I can tell both are working.
Now, when it goes to stall and starts bucking I have no way to confirm if both rotors are going, but I would assume they are. What makes you think just 1 is working on yours?
I've talked to several people and all agree that my timing is too advanced for idle. Not really sure why Aaron has his settings like that, maybe MS3 uses them differently or something?? Who knows, but they all agree that it should be only a few degrees in the lower bins. I'm hoping to get some time tonight to try that out, and also dial back some fuel since it seems to be half flooding if I can't it to start up within the first try or two...
Probably worth my while to re-check my CAS to make sure it's set correctly. I'm confident that once the car can start and idle without drama the rest of the tuning process will be smoother, but holy **** this is complicated/frustrating....
Now, when it goes to stall and starts bucking I have no way to confirm if both rotors are going, but I would assume they are. What makes you think just 1 is working on yours?
I've talked to several people and all agree that my timing is too advanced for idle. Not really sure why Aaron has his settings like that, maybe MS3 uses them differently or something?? Who knows, but they all agree that it should be only a few degrees in the lower bins. I'm hoping to get some time tonight to try that out, and also dial back some fuel since it seems to be half flooding if I can't it to start up within the first try or two...
Probably worth my while to re-check my CAS to make sure it's set correctly. I'm confident that once the car can start and idle without drama the rest of the tuning process will be smoother, but holy **** this is complicated/frustrating....
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
God damn it runs GREAT!!!! update today. she colds starts effortlessly and idle's really smooth. im keeping the idle at 1500 til it breaks in all the way so i haven't messed with idle tuning too much. just have to finish my exhaust, make an intake and hook up my omp and ill drive this thing outta the shop and home.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
so lots of good news and some bad news. the car starts up and runs pretty good, drives decently (needs more tuning) and overall works. but now all at once im having a problem with my ecu deciding to shut off while the engine is running. so for now thats where im at. the cars at my house now and it wont run for more than 2 min.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
Well all is good in this hood 
found out i had a loose bolt on my ecu grounds, so thats why it restarted and was having problems. i have 50 miles on it now and it seems to want to run really well. just doing some tuning on the ve table for now as i put some miles on it. coolant temps are staying real cool with the vmount.

found out i had a loose bolt on my ecu grounds, so thats why it restarted and was having problems. i have 50 miles on it now and it seems to want to run really well. just doing some tuning on the ve table for now as i put some miles on it. coolant temps are staying real cool with the vmount.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
thanks man!
Thanks for the good words.
little update, started daily driving the car. i have to remove my omp and block it off for now because its pouring 2 stoke out of the seals. so ill order a rebuild kit today for it. also have to fix a little coolant leak i have on one of my v-mount hoses (its kinda ghetto so its expected). only other thing i really need to do is re-ground my wideband to the same place as the MS so they both read the same. then just lots and lots of tuning.
Thanks for the good words.
little update, started daily driving the car. i have to remove my omp and block it off for now because its pouring 2 stoke out of the seals. so ill order a rebuild kit today for it. also have to fix a little coolant leak i have on one of my v-mount hoses (its kinda ghetto so its expected). only other thing i really need to do is re-ground my wideband to the same place as the MS so they both read the same. then just lots and lots of tuning.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
i will tomorrow, i was going to take some video today but instead i decided to accidently **** up a fuel injector oring causing a massive fuel leak, guess i need to deburr my fuel rail a little more. car is staying at the shop again tonight :C
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
so another lame update.
after having a coolant hose fall off on the freeway i decided to do things a little better. i got new coolant hose and fixed her up. drove fine for 20 miles. drove it to work this morning and everything was great. went to get lunch, return and notice alot of coolant leaking. i tore it all apart and found that i had cracked my waterpump housing. **** sucks. oh well, getting another tomorrow hopefully so should be on the road by tomorrow night. seems like every time i fix it something else happens. wtf....
plus side, i have almost 100 miles on the engine and it seems to run really strong.
Cracked water pump? How does that happen? I'm getting really go at taking off UIM and all attached stuff off my sons 86. Trying to resolve a leaking FDP. All the old spare ones have leaked and now the banjo trick is not working either. can't get it to seal, copper washers on aluminum don't seem to work that well.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
Cracked water pump? How does that happen? I'm getting really go at taking off UIM and all attached stuff off my sons 86. Trying to resolve a leaking FDP. All the old spare ones have leaked and now the banjo trick is not working either. can't get it to seal, copper washers on aluminum don't seem to work that well.
Got a new water pump housing, fixed up the cooling system. I have no leaks so far 50ish miles. I drove the car to work for the first time today it drove quite well and seems to drive pretty nice. I bought a Vibrant Performance muffler 3" straight through, it quieted the car down alot and i have a 3" vibrant resonator on the way too. I will take pics of the exhaust tomorrow. I have 120 miles on the car and climbing daily now. All i have left to do is plumb a heater core coolant return, hook up boost gauge, and tune alot more.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
well 250+ miles now, still running great! i bought the registered version of tunerstudio for the megasquirt. the autotune feature is amazing, saves me sooo much time and hassle, i recommend it to anyone. i will get a vid of it driving soon, its just too wet to have any traction right now


