Radar84SE

What is going on folks? There are so many good build threads on here and so many ways to go on the projects. Yes, I said Projects, as in two. I was blessed/cursed with two 1984 rx7s. One is a GSL the other GSL-SE. Both high miles and had been sitting several years. Long enough for the gas to go bad. Not turn to lacquer but close.

Started on the GSL - emptied gas tank, swapped fuel filter, and put new gas in it. After several attempts to crank it and to life it came. change the oil, air filter and cleaned spark plugs and drove the wheels off it. And still going. Found some bondo pealing off the back, sun roof rusted through in several spots, so I started doing body work. In the mean time...

Started the SE - Drained gas, swapped fuel filter and put new fuel in it. After several attempts to start...nothing. Thank God the guy I got these from let me have all the manuals. After some testing found the fuel pump to be bad. Replaced and...Several attempts to crank, Zoom! It was going and the EFI, what a difference between the two! Drove like a dream, other than the absolutely sloppy steering. Fast and the buzzer didn't like me. Then went to drive it the other day and the fun begins...Started acting like it wasn't getting enough fuel. Idling was a little high 1200 rpm, but as soon as you gave it gas it would choke and die. Not revving over 4k. and then die. When it got to running temp it wouldn't even idle. So started the vacuum correcting and injector seal replacement. There again, thank God that the guy gave me a butt load of parts seeing that most are very brittle plastic and breaking. The only thing I haven't been able to find is the one to four vacuum canister for the oilers. I need to look and find the technical name for it.

Anyway, back to the research and vacuum lines. Oh, 12a Atkins parts rebuild 70k 13b swapped with 108k motor

erick31876

iTrader: (8)

Welcome to the forum, I really like the wheels on the gsl.good luck with them

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'm so glad I went carbed in my GSL-SE. Hogged out boost prepped 12A carb on a 13B, and it is scary power-wise now, if you were wondering. You don't have to keep the ancient EFI if you don't want to, although some would probably disagree.

Oh and welcome to the forum.

Radar84SE

Thanks guys. Yeah my son wants the wheels and I told him they wouldn't work on his car(Civic). He didn't believe me and had to check it out himself. As far as the Carb swap, Im not really looking to mod it out too much(fund issues). It has the aftermarket header and tailpipe, I want to say RB header and not sure on muffler. Im in the midst of replacing all the vacuum lines that are very brittle and broke the vacuum spider in the process. I have been looking for it a couple of days now with no luck. Only reason I know its called the vacuum spider is because of Arron Cakes post he did several years ago on his. If that is even the name of it. I've caught myself looking in the FSM, haynes, and chilton manuals to not find it, not to mention the endless search that brought me to this awesome plethora of knowledge and information. After the vacuum lines I have purchased a fuel injector seal kit to replace the non-existing ones.

And thanks again!

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

I know I've said this repeatedly on this forum, but cannot stress this enough!! Check your tank for rust. All of the problems you described sound like a clogged inlet screen to the pump. There is no filter between the tank and the pump, just a tiny in-line screen. Drop and coat your tank and all of your problems will go away. Good luck, the SE is awesome!

Radar84SE

Yeah that's one of the things I've been meaning to check. In the mean time I've found that ALL the vacuum lines are brittle and snapping like twigs. Luckily I have a bunch of parts from the guy I got it from. Only had to order the "spider valve", vacuum lines, crush washers, oil and a battery. I have three fuel dampeners, one of which had the screw out. That's bad from the research I've done. One that has a rubber washer half out from behind the scew and what appers to be a good one (test to come late) Been meaning to post some of the novice mistakes I've made...like the broken oiler line!?! Thankfully I have some more, just have to get crush washers. I also found the injector gasket/seals were toast. Not to mention the intake gasket leak. You know a 32yo car that sat 5or6 years prior. Ran like a dream before all the vacuum lines and rust broke free.

Thanks again for the info!

Radar84SE

As mentioned above the GSL had some bondo on the back of it around the hatch. It was splitting in such a way that when you pressed on it water was coming out. Not a very good sign. So I proceeded to take it off only to find a bunch of surface rust. Only wanting to repair a small little spot turned into the whole back side of the car. Luckily the damage was only in that one little spot besides the crevice around the hatch on the driver side. The the thing that spurred the whole respray on the back is the 17 layers of paint that I found. When I was taking off parts to do the repair there were divot from the layers of paint. Anyway, so here comes all the bodywork. Have you priced paint lately? Wow. Not really to that point of needing paint since I'm not happy with the way that the bodywork is turning out. I've got most of it out to where I don't need bondo just filler. Also I welded up the holes for the GSL emblem and a couple other things. I'm contemplating on losing the side moldings. It just seems to look a little sleeker to me without them. I don't know we'll look at it after the respray and see how it looks.

Radar84SE

Update on the GSL-SE - Replaced all the vacuum lines and started to put the upper intake back on and found TWO MORE vacuum lines. When attempting to remove them I broke yet another crucial vacuum component. The delay vacuum valve. After doing some research found that mazdaspeed and atkins both have it available. Atkins wanted 39 and some change, mazdaspeed is asking right around the same. I can't remember which one it was but they were charging 35 bucks shipping!?!? So I called my new best friend in the Mazda world, Barry at Med Center Mazda in Pelham AL...17 bucks and it will be there Tuesday. I know atkins and the other are specialty dealers but when the dealership cost Half of what they're asking, something is wrong. Well now we wait...again.

Its been to wet and cold to do any body work on the GSL, so I'm pretty much in a holding pattern.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

https://www.mazdatrix.com/c-5.htm

Radar84SE

Finished up with the vacuum lines, I think, just to find the distributor seeming to be going bad. I've tested the igniter, coil and replaced the wires between the coil and the igniter. Spoke with a rotary guru with the bad news of the magnets in the distributor are going bad, or might be going bad. The trailing will fire like a canon, but the leading petered out to nothing. I still have to drop the tank and check it out and act accordingly. It sure would be nice to drive it this year. I've found the FSM once on here and can not find it again. The FSM that I have printed out that was given to me with the vehicles is not the best quality and hard to read. If it weren't for love, this car would be on the auction block tomorrow. Gotta love a 32 year old car and its issues.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Ugh. Fire your rotary guru. Permanent magnets don't usually go bad. But the ignitor can. I've also had one with a pinched wire where someone caught it under the cap for who knows how many miles, leading to an intermittent ignition problem. Also check your coils. I've had some where the little brass cup (contact) inside was corroded. It unscrews for easy cleaning, but pull the coil first as it is oil filled and you don't want to let it trickle out.

erick31876

iTrader: (8)

You can print the fsm from foxed.ca.Com they have fsm's for every year

Radar84SE

I have pulled both coils and they ohm'd good, 1.34 and 1.32, test the igniter per the instructions in the FSM(that diagram was legible)it test good as well, and replaced the wires between the coil and igniters. And while searching through the forums for answers, found the FSM.

Thank you for the responses. think that the distributor pick up coil is the next thing to test.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

That and make sure the air gap is correct for the pickup.

Radar84SE

It was the air gap opened way to wide. Reset and its now firing like a bandit. On to the tank dropping. Yay! Not!

Radar84SE

no words...anyone know where to get one? Searched all the net with no luck.

Freeskier7791

Fuel tank?? Replace with inline filter?