Duffman's 79 Spark Yellow Restoration Project
#76
Sin City Rotary
dizzy's from 80's are easier to find, have a spare you could use in an emergency lol
will keep eyes for the correct alt and reg, you do know they are 79 only right
the engine from a 79 or 80 should work aka thermal reactor engines
will keep eyes for the correct alt and reg, you do know they are 79 only right
the engine from a 79 or 80 should work aka thermal reactor engines
#79
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the points ignition stinks, if you must you must, but the electric is MUCH better
#81
Sin City Rotary
lol duff I am running my points as well, other then having to adjust them once in a while they are ok but I am sure if I revved high enough the points would break up where electronic wouldn't
#82
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May I suggest a Pertronix breakerless conversion? It's popular among the muscle-car and other restored car crowds. Fits in place of points, adding one extra wire to the dizzy. May or may not work with the funky dual-points setup on an SA, though. Worth a look.
Alternately, you can use a hidden MSD (or other CDI) box - points last forever when they're just trigger a capacitive-discharge ignition system.
edit: never mind. Pertronix are jerks who don't make one for the rotary distributors. Pretty much all other Mazda dizzys, just not rotaries.
Alternately, you can use a hidden MSD (or other CDI) box - points last forever when they're just trigger a capacitive-discharge ignition system.
edit: never mind. Pertronix are jerks who don't make one for the rotary distributors. Pretty much all other Mazda dizzys, just not rotaries.
Last edited by Frankenrex; 11-10-10 at 10:53 PM. Reason: Pertronix is piston-biased
#85
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May I suggest a Pertronix breakerless conversion? It's popular among the muscle-car and other restored car crowds. Fits in place of points, adding one extra wire to the dizzy. May or may not work with the funky dual-points setup on an SA, though. Worth a look.
Alternately, you can use a hidden MSD (or other CDI) box - points last forever when they're just trigger a capacitive-discharge ignition system.
edit: never mind. Pertronix are jerks who don't make one for the rotary distributors. Pretty much all other Mazda dizzys, just not rotaries.
Alternately, you can use a hidden MSD (or other CDI) box - points last forever when they're just trigger a capacitive-discharge ignition system.
edit: never mind. Pertronix are jerks who don't make one for the rotary distributors. Pretty much all other Mazda dizzys, just not rotaries.
#86
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Woah don't know how I missed this thread. Your new baby is exactly one year older then mine! I finally got into a new garage last month so I too have begun working on my SA. I've got photos and stuff but keep leaving the camera at the garage so I never remember to start a thread. New garage is in Rockwall between 66 and I-30 on Goliad. I've got a lift and shop air although it sounds like you've got access to a lift as well. Seems there is quite a large number of 1st gen fans in the Dallas area that I never knew about too.
#87
Have RX-7, will restore
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I'm still doing my homework but here's where I need help from the vets, rotarydude, mazdaverx, and the others. I'm gonna take this thing back to as close to orginal condtion as I can, I'd like to know if there were any differences between the 79/80 engines, A/C components, etc. A lot of these parts were in the hatch but it's not all there and I want to start sourcing those as soon as I know for sure what I'm looking for.
I'm gonna be in the market for quite a few interior pieces as well so I'll be researching the differenes, if any, in 79/80 radios, surronds, dashes, etc.
I'm gonna be in the market for quite a few interior pieces as well so I'll be researching the differenes, if any, in 79/80 radios, surronds, dashes, etc.
#88
May I suggest a Pertronix breakerless conversion? It's popular among the muscle-car and other restored car crowds. Fits in place of points, adding one extra wire to the dizzy. May or may not work with the funky dual-points setup on an SA, though. Worth a look.
Alternately, you can use a hidden MSD (or other CDI) box - points last forever when they're just trigger a capacitive-discharge ignition system.
edit: never mind. Pertronix are jerks who don't make one for the rotary distributors. Pretty much all other Mazda dizzys, just not rotaries.
Alternately, you can use a hidden MSD (or other CDI) box - points last forever when they're just trigger a capacitive-discharge ignition system.
edit: never mind. Pertronix are jerks who don't make one for the rotary distributors. Pretty much all other Mazda dizzys, just not rotaries.
#89
Woah don't know how I missed this thread. Your new baby is exactly one year older then mine! I finally got into a new garage last month so I too have begun working on my SA. I've got photos and stuff but keep leaving the camera at the garage so I never remember to start a thread. New garage is in Rockwall between 66 and I-30 on Goliad. I've got a lift and shop air although it sounds like you've got access to a lift as well. Seems there is quite a large number of 1st gen fans in the Dallas area that I never knew about too.
#90
wish i had opened this thread earlier!! this is an amazing project and i salute you for taking it on! very happy to see that you are restoring the car instead of hacking it and modding it! if i can be of any help for info or parts or anything in general, let me know. will definatly be following this thread closely!
#91
Have RX-7, will restore
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i don't think i have any of those parts but i'l llook. i do have a 79 front caliper and the black plastic cluster surround..but i'll look. if i do i'll send you a pm and if you cover shipping any part you want is yours for the cost of shipping. i'm not sure what you know about the SA's, so i won't post too much about specific SA stuff that you may already know, but if you've got questions i'll be happy to answer them..
in addition to the usual SA specifics and slight variations, i do know that there were different carbs for CA , federal, and Canada models, there were differnet bolts for the spare tire hold down for the steel and aluminum wheel (the SA came with a full size spare) and the same applied to the size difference in the lug bolts for the steel and aluminum wheel sets. the thing i had been researching a little was if there was any difference in SA A/C systems. in the 84 and 85, Mazda used Nippon Denso a/c systems and Sanden systems. each were easialy identifiable by the compressor and lines. the system type was also printed on a label on the evaporator's case.
in addition to the usual SA specifics and slight variations, i do know that there were different carbs for CA , federal, and Canada models, there were differnet bolts for the spare tire hold down for the steel and aluminum wheel (the SA came with a full size spare) and the same applied to the size difference in the lug bolts for the steel and aluminum wheel sets. the thing i had been researching a little was if there was any difference in SA A/C systems. in the 84 and 85, Mazda used Nippon Denso a/c systems and Sanden systems. each were easialy identifiable by the compressor and lines. the system type was also printed on a label on the evaporator's case.
#92
Update time
I'm slowly runing out of 'easy' projects to do. This weekend I finished scrubing down the interior with Simple Green and soapy water, looks and smells great. I finally got around to washing all the dirt outta the engine bay as well. After that I started in on the engine bay harness, the emissions harnes to be exact. A special thanks to Sgt Fox and Frankenrex for the 79 wiring diagram.
Took out, cleaned, and replaced the remainder of the interior:
There was a wired connector under there that ran to nothing, it had been cut. Diagram shows that it was the lead for the fuel pump, yay....
Then started on the engine bay.
Got the emission harness and what not remove. Like all the wiring I've messed with so far, it has been cut and spliced too.
Don't know why this was cut, all the connectors were spliced back in to their orginal 'position' for lack of a better word. IE green-green, red-red, etc.. Best I can figure the previous owner just cut all the connectors from the carb then later realized he needed them. There are two ground wires cut, no clue were they go as I haven't consulted the wiring diagram
The same was done for the emission solenoids though only the ground wire matches, colored wires aren't the same as their spliced in connections:
I'm slowly runing out of 'easy' projects to do. This weekend I finished scrubing down the interior with Simple Green and soapy water, looks and smells great. I finally got around to washing all the dirt outta the engine bay as well. After that I started in on the engine bay harness, the emissions harnes to be exact. A special thanks to Sgt Fox and Frankenrex for the 79 wiring diagram.
Took out, cleaned, and replaced the remainder of the interior:
There was a wired connector under there that ran to nothing, it had been cut. Diagram shows that it was the lead for the fuel pump, yay....
Then started on the engine bay.
Got the emission harness and what not remove. Like all the wiring I've messed with so far, it has been cut and spliced too.
Don't know why this was cut, all the connectors were spliced back in to their orginal 'position' for lack of a better word. IE green-green, red-red, etc.. Best I can figure the previous owner just cut all the connectors from the carb then later realized he needed them. There are two ground wires cut, no clue were they go as I haven't consulted the wiring diagram
The same was done for the emission solenoids though only the ground wire matches, colored wires aren't the same as their spliced in connections:
#93
Tried to ID these three relays, either I'm reading the diagram wrong or they've been switched. The one the diagram says is the AC relay has 'window relay' scribed on the back. So far I haven't found that black box in the diagram either.
If ya squint ya can see 'window relay' on it. I think the other relay is actually the AC relay though the connections have obviously been cut and replaced at some point. the Red and blue wire run along the firewall and through it on the righ side above the exhaust manifold. They're spliced into the blower motor but I forgot to get a pic of that hack job.
The lil baby rats nest is so cute.
Whatever this is was broken, top poped off after i took that pic and the diaphram was dried out.
If ya squint ya can see 'window relay' on it. I think the other relay is actually the AC relay though the connections have obviously been cut and replaced at some point. the Red and blue wire run along the firewall and through it on the righ side above the exhaust manifold. They're spliced into the blower motor but I forgot to get a pic of that hack job.
The lil baby rats nest is so cute.
Whatever this is was broken, top poped off after i took that pic and the diaphram was dried out.
#94
So, if anyone out there has one I need a good emissions harness. I've got a list of other things I need but it's down in the car and that's all I can recall off hand. I'll post more of what I'm looking for tomorrow, hopefully finding what I need isn't gonna be too difficult.
#95
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Got the emission harness and what not remove. Like all the wiring I've messed with so far, it has been cut and spliced too.
Don't know why this was cut, all the connectors were spliced back in to their orginal 'position' for lack of a better word. IE green-green, red-red, etc.. Best I can figure the previous owner just cut all the connectors from the carb then later realized he needed them. There are two ground wires cut, no clue were they go as I haven't consulted the wiring diagram
i'm not sure which relay is which, but one is the choke and check relay
#96
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Oh, wow, it still has all the sound deadener under the tin.
We can cut out all those splices and solder it back together. Once it's taped up it'll be a lot more low-key at least. If you can't solder, I can show you how.
The Black box with "Echlin" on it at the bottom left of the "three relays" picture is the voltage regulator. I no longer have that - changed to later-model internally-regulated alternator.
The VR is described in Section A, connectors are A-10, A-11, A-12, and there's A-13 for the condenser/noise filter.
One of the relays is the AC relay - Green/Yellow, Green/White, Black/White, Black wires. Section B of the diagram, connector B-06. B-13 may also be there, but it's an auto-trans kick-down relay.
The third one would be A-03, the hot-start relay, two connectors, one with Green/Red, Black/Light Blue, and Blue/White wires, and a second with just a Black. That one's in section A: Starting and Charging systems.
And you're welcome. That diagram was the first one I scanned, I think.
We can cut out all those splices and solder it back together. Once it's taped up it'll be a lot more low-key at least. If you can't solder, I can show you how.
The Black box with "Echlin" on it at the bottom left of the "three relays" picture is the voltage regulator. I no longer have that - changed to later-model internally-regulated alternator.
The VR is described in Section A, connectors are A-10, A-11, A-12, and there's A-13 for the condenser/noise filter.
One of the relays is the AC relay - Green/Yellow, Green/White, Black/White, Black wires. Section B of the diagram, connector B-06. B-13 may also be there, but it's an auto-trans kick-down relay.
The third one would be A-03, the hot-start relay, two connectors, one with Green/Red, Black/Light Blue, and Blue/White wires, and a second with just a Black. That one's in section A: Starting and Charging systems.
And you're welcome. That diagram was the first one I scanned, I think.
#97
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The "Locator" pages in the diagram are great for figuring out what something is. You find it on one of the locator pages, get the connector number, then find that in the actual wiring and connector diagrams.
#99
Kevin, awesome info. Going by what ya said the one scribes with 'window relay' is the ac relay, the one still screwed on is the hot start relay. That other one is prolly some P/O hack job, it runs to blower motor.
I assumed that's what the black box was but since I hadn't found it yet I wasn't sure. I do know how to solder, gotta get a new iron though. If ya ever feel the need to give me a hand with sorting and rebuild the harneses I wont turn ya down lol. Next month I'll bring ya my stereo surround and see if and anything can be done to fix it.
I assumed that's what the black box was but since I hadn't found it yet I wasn't sure. I do know how to solder, gotta get a new iron though. If ya ever feel the need to give me a hand with sorting and rebuild the harneses I wont turn ya down lol. Next month I'll bring ya my stereo surround and see if and anything can be done to fix it.
#100
Rotary Enthusiast
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Kevin, awesome info. Going by what ya said the one scribes with 'window relay' is the ac relay, the one still screwed on is the hot start relay. That other one is prolly some P/O hack job, it runs to blower motor.
I assumed that's what the black box was but since I hadn't found it yet I wasn't sure. I do know how to solder, gotta get a new iron though. If ya ever feel the need to give me a hand with sorting and rebuild the harneses I wont turn ya down lol. Next month I'll bring ya my stereo surround and see if and anything can be done to fix it.
I assumed that's what the black box was but since I hadn't found it yet I wasn't sure. I do know how to solder, gotta get a new iron though. If ya ever feel the need to give me a hand with sorting and rebuild the harneses I wont turn ya down lol. Next month I'll bring ya my stereo surround and see if and anything can be done to fix it.
That third relay may be added to deal with the "high" speed setting to keep from routing the full load through the dash switch, though why it would be out under the hood instead of right next to the blower motor I don't know. Is that the one with the blur, red, white, and black wires? Worth looking at exactly which wires it's spliced into to see what it does.
The section that covers the blower motor is Section G in the wiring diagram.
On nice thing about the '79 - the wiring diagram is the simplest of the lot.