I'll run it as is for a while and maybe block it later so I can at least have something to compare.

Thinking of doing a DLIDFIS conversion but holding off. May go to NOLA MSPKY if the weather is nice and I can get a windshield in before Friday.

 

There's no heat source going into the intake. The manifold already blocks this off! Are you saying exhaust that quickly flows by a 1" section is heating up the entire intake manifold? Nonsense!

 

Thinking of taking some parts that are rusting bad off and cleaning and painting them to help them last a bit longer. Namely the water pump. What do you guys think are the chances I ruin the gasket?

 

Gonna scotch-brite the corroded white stuff all over the engine and paint the intake manifold.

 

Bolts are going to be red.

After scotch-brite:



Before and after for the engine mount and the coolant tube that runs along the passenger side wall.




These are getting painted black today.

 

Too dark outside for a good pic so this will have to do until tomorrow. Everything will be dry and bolted together tomorrow. (Letting the bolts for the engine mount dry totally)



Also ordered new gaskets from Atkins.

 

 

Is this material acceptable to make an engine-intake manifold gasket from?

Fel-Pro/10 x 26 x 1/32 in. rubber and fiber gasket material sheet (3157) | Gasket Material | AutoZone.com

It's rubber and fiber gasket material.

 

$10 for water pump gasket and $11 for shipping... What a PITA.

I am scanning and redrawing all the gaskets I have to buy from here on out. Still looking for more info on good material to use as a gasket.

I am using a Rubber-Cellulose sheet for the water pump and coolant stuffs and Rubber-Fabric sheet for carb, intake, and anything with fuel or oil.

Both sheets from Autozone. Trying to utilize my waterjet to make a bunch of backup gaskets for cheap.

 

Does anyone have a RB oil filter adapter for the 12a that can take some measurements? We just got a mill in our shop and I figure this would be a great starter project for me.



Edit: Hrmm.. On second thought it shouldn't be that hard just to design my own...

 

Testing some proof of concepts.



Thinking I may be able to call racing beat and get them to sell me just the bolt adapter.

 

My rear axle is leaking from where the housing meets up with the driveshaft (where the 6 or so bolts are, I couldnt get a pic under the car).

Is there a seal that goes there or just RTV?

 

Got the seat in. Not FIA so I won't be able to race but better than nothing. My Sparco seat is FIA but out of date by 2 years.

 

hey silly question what rims and tires are you running im looking in to rims and stuff for the right off set for racing rims

 

Diamond Racing 13" wheels. 205/60 Toyo Proxe RA1's for the tires. Not sure about offset and whatnot as I don't know exactly what wheels they are.

 

if you are talking about where the pumpkin bolts to the axle, I have had good luck only using silicon gasket in this location

 

Taking a look through the old driving log the previous owner kept right now and making a list of mods he checked off.

Shocks: Tokico #HZ-1069 Front, #HE-2317 Rear (Tokico Blues)

Sway Bars: TMC CSM-4018 w/ TMC end-link kit and bushings (says rear end-links and brackets can be removed so I will have to check and see if this was done)

Front suspensions bushings: Mazda Comp - Control Arm 0000-04-7411, Tension Rod 0000-04-7412, Idler Arm 0000-04-7417

Exhaust Header: Racing Beat 16010 or 16012 (not sure which one)

Clutch: Book says any style PP and disk can be used provided they mount in the original configuration except multi-disk clutches. I am guessing it's some type of racing clutch since it engages quickly and shudders when you try to slip it (see video above).

Rear rubber spring seat was removed and strut towers were modified for extra camber.

 

Just ordered this:

Auto Meter

Should suit me well.

 

Looking to buy a lightweight flywheel, recommendations?

 

 

Looks like you have the autopower bolt in cage. I dont know how low you mounted the seat or how tall you are, but do you have problems with clearance between the left side of your head at the top connecting bar? I'm 6ft, sitting in a sparco evo mounted as low as the side mounts allow and positioned in the middle of the floor pan, and I think I'll have to remove the autopower cage on mine until I can get custom fit welded one because my head hits. Curious if you have any tips for me? Thanks

 

I had the same problem and still kinda do unfortunately. I now have a different seat and the back mounts literally sit on the floor and my helmet is still 1/4" from the left bar. I'm ~5' 11"

I plan on re-doing the cage at some point with a weld-in with better clearance.

 

I took it to the track yesterday. The Mikuni performs much better than the Nikki. So much so that I had to change the way I drove the track quite a bit, using my brakes a lot more.

Turn 1 coming off a long straight is a slight turn and I used to be able to just flatfoot through the turn but now I have to lift and brake a bit otherwise I am carrying too much speed to make it.

No bog issues at all out on the track now that the accelerator pump is working, throttle response was amazing really.