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Also I have a glass moonroof, but it only has one hinge. I've spent hours trying to find info on the fasteners used to hold the hinges on but I've had no luck at all. Both google and the forums haven't been too helpful lately. Does anyone have any info or ideas on where to get those weird fasteners that hold the hinges onto the glass itself??
I heard that someone was doing the replacements fasteners in aluminum......they looked awesome...I think it was like a $100 for the set......it was a while back....
I'd check out a glass shop, one that does shower doors etc. Photos would help.
I was thinking that a business like tat might have some as well. I'll post some photos when I get back home, but they look like carriage bolts but instead of a threaded rod coming off the dome its a couple cm long dowel that is then threaded to take a machine screw. I went to my local industrial hardware store and got some barrel nuts but they're way too long and will have to be cut down. If they don't work I'll have to go to specialty glass place. I'm determined to figure this out.
Originally Posted by raven12aFB
I heard that someone was doing the replacements fasteners in aluminum......they looked awesome...I think it was like a $100 for the set......it was a while back....
Something tells me maybe not anymore. Nothing related to that has popped up in my searches on this topic so it may not be something that's currently available. That's the biggest bummer I've found with these cars: a lot of support has simply vanished over time as the cars get older and a little harder to find, but that's just how that goes.
I'll let you guys know how the modified fasteners go!
Tomorrow I'll finally post some pics of the fasteners!
There's been a new development: the car has always had a bit of a rough idle and would bog when getting stared from a stop. The old spray starter fluid around the carb base to find the leak trick showed it was likely due to a vacuum leak and i found the leak! The vacuum hose from the rat's nest solenoid to the #2 anti-afterburn valve was disconnected. Here's the problem... when I plugged that hose back onto its vacuum nipple the car started to run on only one rotor!! When I leave the solenoid disconnected and plug the nipple on the valve it idles rough, but less rough than before I messed with anything. Also when I plug it it also doesn't bog down. Does anyone have any idea why that may be the case? I tried troubleshooting the valve itself by unplugging the hose from the air cleaner and looking for a vacuum. The vacuum is only present on deceleration I believe the #2 valve is working properly.
Anyone have any idea what may be wrong? Is the solenoid bad? The AA valve? The Air Control Valve? I'm stumped and pretty frustrated at this point.
These are the fasteners that pass through the glass moonroof to secure the hinges. The dome is about the size of a quarter and the shaft is maybe about 3/8" long. I've never seen anything similar except maybe what holds the rear shocks to the glass hatch, though the hatch fasteners are notably bigger. does anyone have a source on where to find something like these? The closest thing I was able to find were barrel nuts with a head of similar diameter, though perhaps taller and slotted for a phillip's head screwdriver. The shaft is 3/4" long and I'll need to turn it down on a lathe to be used. I think it may work, but I'll have to see.
There's been no progress on the #2 AAF valve causing one rotor to not fire. I did what I could trying to inspect the air pump, but spinning it by hand and shining a light into the orifices didn't show any obvious damage. I have a whole smog set-up from a separate engine I may have to throw on to see if that eliminates the issue.
WRT the blind nut style for the sunroof, the whole point of the shank for holding glass is to put a limit on just how much you can tighten the fastener assembly and keep from cracking it.
With no progress on finding the OEM fastener, you could gin up your own with a barrel nut, some rubber pads... just gotta make sure the barrel nut shank is the correct depth...probably make it match you ~3/8" - ish piece in your photo.
I ran across a thread by user @SlickRain where he mentioned he sorted his sunroof glass hardware. I asked him about the source and he says that Derek hall on Facebook makes good hardware.
He also said to make sure to specify the year, because 79’ is different than 80’ and up.
I ran across a thread by user @SlickRain where he mentioned he sorted his sunroof glass hardware. I asked him about the source and he says that Derek hall on Facebook makes good hardware.
He also said to make sure to specify the year, because 79’ is different than 80’ and up.
A long tome ago, I made some of these out of carriage bolts. Don't remember the size, probably something around a 3/8 thread or so. Something with a head thats about the same size, and the minor diameter of the thread big enough to turn down to a solid O.D. Cut to length, drill and tap for the screw then turn around, chuck on the O.D. and smooth out any markings on the head. Paint black and install with some plastic washers.
Although the front and rear latches are different from 79 to 80, they use the same hardware to attach them to the roof. There was another thread some time back where a member found like items off some Nissan van rear glass or such.
Hello all! I'm reviving my dead thread to provide an update to y'all and ask for some advice. The big update is that I've been daily driving the car for the past couple certs and the chassis has well over 300k miles on it now! I really has been such a wonderful car and I don't think I've ever had more fun with only 100hp. The bad news is that I've finally lost the motor. The car was on its second engine by the time I became its caretaker and had about 160k miles on the motor. While driving on the freeway at about 3000 rpm I lost a rotor; an apex seal has finally let go on rotor 2. Up until this point the engine was bone-stock but now that I have to swap engines I was wanting to make some small improvements. I'd love to do any reliability mods if they exist, as well as any slight performance mods I can manage. The goal is to keep the car as my daily, though the ability to compete in the occasional AutoX wild be a nice plus.
The "new" engine I have t go in the car is from an 83 automatic. I had the engine running in the car from which it was pulled and I'm reasonably sure its healthy enough to run for many more miles. So far aside from a complete gasket and O-ring reseal I was planning on changing the oil pump to the 13b 17mm pump, new water pump, smog delete, oil pan baffle, and Racing Beat 80 oil PSI regulator. I know the autos have the rear counterweight needed for a lightweight flywheel and that would be a nice upgrade. I have a Racing Beat lightweight steel flywheel that a fried pulled of of his 80 RX7, but it's a 215mm flywheel, not the 225mm that came on the later cars. Even though I did a clutch job pretty recently I'm considering changing to the smaller clutch setup to be able to use that flywheel to save from buying a new one.
Any of y'all have any advice? I'm considering starting a new thread for the engine prep, but just discussing it here may be enough.
There was a thread recently about a guy who had some difficulty with his cars drivability, and it was narrowed down to going to a lightened flywheel. Essentially there isn't enough mass there when coming to a stop and the engine stalls out. For a daily driver, and not a dedicated race car, i would recommend sticking with the stock setup (since you mentioned it's recent and fresh).
you might use the FD oil pressure regulator, its cheaper.
baffle plate is nice.
the oil pump is nice too, but you might already have it, i forget when they used it and when they didn't. its not 13B/12A
i used to like the steel flywheel, its not the stock boat anchor, but its not the race car one either.
if you're taking the engine apart, use the clearances and specs for the FD or competition engine
the more new parts the better, generally
I vaguely remember something about auto rear housings having a different bolt pattern compared to rear housings on the engine in a manual transmission car. Might want to look into that if you haven't already.
11-30-21, 01:10 PM
