OK13B

iTrader: (3)

It's going to be a long story with more to come..... it started with a 1985 GSL-SE.

it all started 2 years ago when i hit 200k (miles) I got a wild hair that said "It's time to rebuild it" so I parked the car right at 200,001.6 miles. ( i tried so hard to make it exact but that didn't happen) so I ordered just a rebuild kit from atkins, 3mm seals and all.

I started to pull the engine marking everything with take. Pulled it, and tore down the engine, EASY. then since I had it apart i thought, "well I might as well do a street port, so i ordered the guide things from pineapple racing. (great guys by the way, I wanted to do the bigger port but the suggested the smaller and sent me both kits at no extra charge ) so i met them half way and did a custom port.

Well then it was time to put the engine back together, not to hard at all...except that when i was putting my cast aluminum intake on I over torqued it by the smallest amount and broke it then I thought i would just upgrade it so being cheap like i am I thought I'd go with the 2nd gen intake mod. I did all the fab to get it to work, on the GSL-SE on the intake is a little port that was not on the 2nd gen intake to i had to mod the "new" intake and put a angle iron on the bottom of it to block that port as it didn't really serve a function (that I could see) I had to block off the extra injector holes, fuel and oil.

So i spent a month getting it all set up. put it on, and dropped it in the car. at this point it had only been 4 months as i was taking my time doing everything. I tried and tried and tried to start the car with all this done to it. but had no luck at all. check all the wiring a dozen times, checked spark, everything... was bad

so I started with the ignition. replaced EVERYTHING. still no start. i was getting fuel at this point, so it must have been my job on the intake mod that was bad.. so i put the stock intake on and it still wouldn't start. Then i thought well maybe i just need to pull start it and get everything setup from there, timing could be off or something. so i pull started it and it took about 3 blocks of pulling then it started... YAY!!!!!!!! but no. it was running so bad i shut it right off. it seemed like it had a bad rotor but how i just rebuilt it. i know i didn't mess any of the engine up. so I checked spark, again, it was good. check fuel, ( took out spark plugs and turned it over,) only one rotar was getting fuel. so i drained the tank, blew out the fuel lines with 250psi air, and carefully cleaned the injector, and tested, only one injector was working, PERFECT!!!! another thing to upgrade

I got 750cc injectors, (i know, more then my fuel pump can handle but that's next) hooked them up and tested them. awesome they work perfect! then bad times came, I was a year in at this point. life got hard, lost my job all that stuff.... so now here it is about a year later and I have finally had time and money, and the attitude to get back to work on the car, one problem though, it's been sitting for a year

first thing i checked was the radiator, bad.... the water, yes water, i know... i didn't intend on it sitting long and only used water for what was supposed to be the first start. no oil, it was just all gunked up. so i trashed that, then i tried to hand turn the engine, it was hard as hell, so i took the spark plugs out and just sprayed a little WD-40 in each chamber, (yes i turned the engine and sprayed each chamber) it was turning like brand new. so now I'm ordering the new radiator tomorrow (paycheck permitting) and as soon as I get it in I will try the good old pull start.

In the mean time I'm going to block off the OMP and injector holes, I have the kit already. running 2 stroke 1oz-1gallon on fuel. take off the gas tank and drain it, clean it all out and that good stuff. I'll have all the pix i took during the build as soon as I find them all. anyone have any pre starting tips for stuff i should do waiting on radiator?

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

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OK13B

iTrader: (3)

well i cant seem to get my pix to post...

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

fresh out of the car
stripped
first look inside
before the port
port
close up of the port
the old rotar
nice and shiny
upgraded intake (fail)
another angel of the port
the engine back together
stock intake before it went on
I'll have more pix when I find them all

mymmeryloss

iTrader: (13)

Hope it works for ya!

Theres a lot of us that have lost our jobs and are just now gettin back on our feet as well...

dabranco

iTrader: (3)

I am in the same paycheck to paycheck man on an 84 GSL, good luck and keep us posted.

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

good luck man...storing a motor with straight water is bound to be a problem...hope this is not the case for you.

estrellao

is it running yet?

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

So I got the new radiator in, so I drain all of my coolant system. My water pump housing is caked with rust and corrosion lucky me right? With only Mazda having them for expensive as can be. I'm getting it sandblasted for a minor $25 and I ordered a new water pump, just cause it's a good idea. new 3 row radiator only one problem with it. The coolant level sensor screw in spot is the wrong size too . So I'm going to try jb weld I'll let you know how it goes

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

I decided That I didn't really need a coolant level sensor so I'm just going to block it off with a bolt. If i have a coolant leak I would be able to see it. So I don't NEED the sensor and i would rather go without then having a getto jb welded on sensor.

ztfdrake61

you could re-tap the hole to the correct size/thread or find an adapter, then you won't have a dummy light on all the time.

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

I have a tapping kit. but it's to big, not to small. and it's such a small difference that i cant get an adapter for it without the sensor sitting way high. the hole needs to be smaller not bigger. I figure for the dummy light I'll just take the bulb out. LOL!

CMK

Where'd that radiator come from? Looks nice

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

I got it from ebay for $155 shipped.

Today I got all the hoses for my radiator, pain in the *** as since it was a 3row and almost 2 times wider then stock, I had to go to the parts store with 2 peices of barbed wire bent in the shape I needed them. I spent 30 min at the wall o hoses till I found 2 perfect matches.

I also drained the gas tank, replaced the filter and blew 200 pis of air through all the fuel lines to get all the old gas out.

Everything is set and ready to go tomorrow when I try to start it. I'm not even going to try to crank start it, i'm going to pull start it as i know it will need timing and some tuning on everything. I'm going to post pix shortly and I will update tomorrow how the start goes... there may even be a video, we'll see about that though.

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

sandblasted water pump housing, had to get rid of all the rust and crap and there was no way i could afford a new one from mazda for well over $300

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

I still need to get the elecrtic fans for it, The stock clutch fan will fit with about 1/4-1/2 inch of clearance to the radiator and I just don't want to risk it...

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

water pump housing looking brand new

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

I tried to start it today and it just wouldn't it. I got a lot of backfiring and could smell but it wouldn't start as son as I put the clutch in it would die. Watch the video any help would be nice

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

I'm convinced it's a timing issue, the plan.... pull up the 84 se 12A. set the timing make where it should be, take out the spark plugs and find out where the rotors are at with a long screwdriver in all the holes. then match that on the 13b, i do have one worry with that though, I know the trailing is off from 12a to 13b by 5degrees, but i think this will work to close in on where I need my engine set. But it'll have to wait till tomorrow as I work all day today. I'll update on how that goes. if it works I'll be sure to post a video

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

Still no luck on getting her started, I know my timing is right, though I do have one concern. But that aside for a second. I took out my engine wire harness and UN bundled it check every write then put it all back together made a checker 83. Everything tested fine with that. I didn't see a single code, and yes I unplugged stuff to make sure it worked.

So on to the one issue I could have. when I put the engine all together I may have put the gear that the distributer goes to I could have put it on the wrong way, but when I hit the engine with a timing light its perfect so I don't really think its an issue. Any thoughts our suggestions on what I should look for? r

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i thought i remembered reading that you shouldn't port the GSL-SE's housings... something about some wall being too thin and not being able to hold up past a minor street port..

at any rate, your car is looking great thus far!! keep plugging away at getting it started. are you sure you are getting fuel into the engine? an improper ground on the SE's engine harness can cause the injectors not to open. there are two black wires with round through ends. these need to be bolted to the emissions rack in order for the injectors to open. i did not bolt them down on my first SE swap back in like 2002.. this is how i know to be careful with them, lol.

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

I had then bolted to the "dynamic chamber" I'm going to try and move them down to the correct spot on my next day off. I'm sure I'm getting fuel though, I I pulled my spark plus and cranked her over, I good must of fuel comes out.

On the port part I have not noticed any coolant in the engine, if it doesn't hold up driving I know of motor for only $300

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

do you assume that the engine is flooding due to the larger injectors? keep us updated man. just keep plugging away at it..

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

I don't understand why you tore down your motor before it died, but I am pulling for you. Not too many stock se's around anymore. I am in the middle of doing an engine swap on mine, had about 250,000 on it when it went. I'm going to rebuild the original motor if all the parts are in decent shape. Good luck!