350xfire

iTrader: (1)

I just got a 1980 with 87k on the odometer. Apparently the car has spent 3-4 years in storage. The interior on the car is pretty nice for a 34 YO car so not much work needed there. The hood needs replacing, if anyone has a lead on one I would appreciate it. The body has a few vey minor rust spots and paint is not in bad shape for such an old car. I have not really evaluated whether it has been repainted but I don't think so. All the emissions stuff is intact.
So far, I have identified the need to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders. I purchased a battery and all the fluids that need to be changed out. I have a question:
I need to pull the fuel tank, radiator and oil cooler and have them cleaned up and checked. I am in Conroe, north of Huston and I need to see where you guys take your fuel tanks and coolers to get serviced?

I will post pics when I get back. Hopefully I can get some help here.

Thanks

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

Welcome to the SA Club! Sounds like you are planning some basic common sence preventitive maintenance precautions. You might want to add the carburator / fuel filter to the list of things to go through. Does it run now? Post up some pics. 1980's do have a few parts that are unique to that year only.

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the plan is to get the car started, then go through everything like suspension, brakes, etc... If it doesn't start, then I'll rebuild the engine first. I have talked to a few radiator shops in Conroe, but no one does fuel tanks so far and the cost to clean a radiator was like $130.. Not sure if that's really worth it rather than go with a new radiator. Was hoping someone would have any ideas on where I can get the oil cooler, radiator and fuel tank cleaned and refreshed.

Will definitely post pics.
Thanks

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

If you want to retain the OEM stock flavor of the car, re-furbushing the stock radiator is cheap insurance and a good idea. If you want to upgrade parts and modify the car, an aftermarket aluminum rad would fit the racy look. There are threads on here about re doing your own tank. Nice, used SA fuel tanks are few and far inbetween and I'm surprised you can't find a place down your way who is setup to tackle the job.

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Thanks I will search in here some more. I have found a place that will do tanks but they want over $100 for each. If the engine starts then I'll keep the car pretty stock since finding an unmolested car is nearly impossible these days. If I have to rebuild, I'll port the engine and modify things. I just don't want to go crazy and exceed the value of the car.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

You can get a new 1980 radiator(Spectra CU701) for about $260. Last time I got a radiator cleaned and welded it cost $60 and I wasn't pleased.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sgt-cu701

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. So will it fit without modifications?

I pulled the fuel tank today and it sounds like there's a lot of stuff in there. Definitely needs some cleaning up and rehab. There is some rust on the top of it. I'm hoping it's not ruined to the point of not being able to use it.

I pulled the metal tray under the engine and it looks like one of the oil cooler mounts in broken. Also the hoses are leaking.

So far, the engine is not locked up- when I spin it I can hear air from compression, the fuel pump works, when the key is in ACC the red lights on the dash come on. The window cranks are hard to operate. I assume pulling the door panels off and lubing will fix this. I think all suspension bushings will need to be replaced. Thinking about going with an Energy Suspension kit for those. There is some surface rust on suspension components. I think I'll have those powder coated.

Still need to look at brakes, transmission, engine, etc... More to come.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

$80/120 is a pretty standard price to thoroughly go through a radaitor. Nice cars do show up every so often but prices have been on a slow up swing the past several years. Expect asking prices of 3-6K, sometimes higher for a better than average car. Good luck on not exceeding the value. Unless you get a smoking deal on an exceptional car, you'll most likely be upside down before you know it. These are affiars of the heart not the head.

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

OK, I went ahead and ordered the AutoZone radiator today. Still looking for fuel tank help.

I need to replace the oil cooler lines and was wondering if these fittings will work for the adapters:
Techna-Fit, Manufacturers of High Performance Hose & Fittings for All Applications

Also I have an old 1988 RX-7 long oil cooler hose from when I had one 20 years ago. Will this line work? It came from Rotary Performance in Garland and has a straight fitting and a 90.

Thanks

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

To reduce your expenses, i would bring the oc lines to a truck hydraulic shop for hose replacement instead of buying adapter fittings @ $10/each + another $100~ for steelbraided or aftermarket oc lines.

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

OK, I finally got around to giving her a bath and taking some pics. Overall looks to be in good shape with minor rust. I have removed the radiator and fuel tank. I just went ahead and ordered a new rad since it wasn't much more than a new one.
The fuel tank is still my biggest concern. Sounds like there is a lot of crud in it. I called a rehab place that a buddy recommended and to restore the tank is $450... Ouch! The do any repairs and seal and coat the inside as well as put some type of line-x on the outside...

Anyway, here are some pics. Sorry for not uploading directly but the pics were too big and was taking way too long to upload!

Thanks

http://s535.photobucket.com/user/350...?sort=3&page=1

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Suspension and A/C parts removed today. Looks like the A/C is trashed. Any suggestions on A/C? Will R-134a work on SAs?
Thanks

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

More pics

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

So far, rear suspension components have been removed and sent to powder coating, rear end is off the car and awaiting a power wash and painting, water pump has been removed and pulleys and housing awaiting powder coating. Also, new radiator, starter, plugs, shocks, bushings, etc are awaiting installation... This weekend the rear end will be painted and the wait for the powder coated parts will begin so I can assemble it back on.

I still need to figure out the fuel tank issue. May end up having to spend $450 to rehab.

Also, I found a seller on ebay named speed_daddy that sells very inexpensive fittings and AN line to build transmission coler lines. I think my total is about $60 for the fittings and line so far. I just need the M16x-10 adapters and those should be around $25-30.

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Changed the starter today and the engine now turns...

woodmv

iTrader: (8)

Daayuuum, that thing looks NICE! I wish mine was as rust free as that!

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. That is one thing about it I really liked. It does have some rust on the hood, pretty trashed but otherwise a few minor spots here and there.

The fuel tank is pretty bad on the top and has 3 pin holes as well. It looks like the best course of action may be the $450 repair.

woodmv

iTrader: (8)

Trust me, if that's the most you have to worry about you're in good shape. It's much easier than dealing with a ton of rust. The gas tank repair should get you on the road and enjoying your toy, so keep up the good work!

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Some more progress... Rear interior is out to take care of cleaning and any minor rust present.
Homebrew powder coating engine parts thanks to harbor freight.
Rear end is completely loose and ready for power wash and paint...

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

More pics

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Clutct master, slave and hose replaced today. All bolts are soaking in vinegar and more powder coating done.

This weekend, differential painting and trying ti figure out why the stereo doesn't work....

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Today working on the driver side window regulator. I lubed it up while in the car and got it to work much better. However, it is hanging up. So I decided to pull apart and spray lube all over. Works fine off the car so not sure what problem is but will try reinstalling and see!

glewsRx

iTrader: (1)

that's a keeper right there.

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

More regulator related pics

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and I may have found a rust-free hood in Dallas for cheap....