1979 sa rx7.5
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 619
Likes: 169
From: Stafford, Ks.
OK, I lied, still not working on the driver's side. I will be lucky if I even get to it before DGRR. On the up side though I have all of the reinforcements, cleanup, seam sealing, and undercoating completely done on the passenger side. The only bit left is the outer cladding on the front portion of the fender and replacing the top of the quarter panel when I get a round tooit.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 619
Likes: 169
From: Stafford, Ks.
Fuel injection pump
Not to get too badly sidetracked, but I wanted to post a picture of the fuel injection pump setup that I plan to use while it is out of the vehicle. I wasn't planning to post this, however part of it came up in another thread and I have seen others asking about this problem as well.
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This solution is for those that are switching to fuel injection and wanted to keep their original fuel tank (which I probably should have done on mine were I a little smarter) or anyone that just wants to run an in-tank pump for their carburetor with an adjustable fuel regulator that returns the excess fuel to the tank. Replacing a first gen tank with aftermarket gets a bit ridiculous requiring extensive cutting and modification. Staying with your original tank is normally the better idea.
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This kit from Tanks Inc. will allow for that with a bit of fabrication on the tank itself, making modification to the body of the car unnecessary. This company uses Walbro pumps that come in a variety of pressures and volumes. This one is a 190 lph model which is overkill for what I need but has the correct pressure. The only pump I saw with lower volume was for a TBI setup that was just short on the 40psi that my injection system required. The excess volume will have to be returned to the tank.
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I am currently installing this kit as a fix for one of Ford's less than stellar ideas and wanted to show it before I put it in. The tray on the bottom of the pump stand is to keep the fuel from sloshing away from the in-tank pump. If you run an in-tank pump dry you will very likely damage it. Most, if not all, fuel tanks that used a carburetor (and my stupid fuel injection setup from Ford) did not have baffles or trays to accommodate an in-tank pump. I cut out the original opening and welded in the ring (it can be done without welding as well). I can now bolt in the new pump setup. You need to know the depth from the top of your mounting point and the bottom of the tank to modify the stand, keeping the tray at the bottom of the tank. I would recommend only making an opening large enough for the inside of the C-ring and welding it to the top of the opening. It is far easier and less messy than trying to match the ring to an exact hole.
Note: if you are going to cut and weld on your tank take precautions to fully drain and wipe out the tank leaving no gas fumes. I watched a friend turn his tank into a torpedo whooshing away down the street when he ignored this. You will also need fuel resistant gasket sealer and some sort of tank sealer for the inside of the fuel tank. Pinholes are a bitch.
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The pump unit is complete with pass through wires and hoses, but there is no way to mount the original fuel gauge sending unit to the pump stand. I had to use one of their standalone sensors and weld in a mounting pad for that as well (again it can be done without welding). You will need to know the depth before ordering as the sensor cannot be modified and must be ordered at the correct length. Ordering a C-ring for the sensor mount will be necessary as it does not come with the sensor. I used the reed type magnetic sensor as it goes straight up and down requiring little room. The float is unlikely to catch on anything and should be more reliable than the original. They have other sensors as well.
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My application uses a truly odd ohm range for the original dash gauge. I purchased one of their Meter Match boxes that goes in-line from the tank to the gauge. It can be used with any resistance type gauge (i.e. temperature, fuel, and oil pressure). This box allows you to set the empty and full settings so you can make the gauge read correctly. It also has high and low alarm settings for those with ADD while driving.
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An adjustable fuel regulator will also be required for a complete kit. I didn't need one for this particular application.
.
.
.
This solution is for those that are switching to fuel injection and wanted to keep their original fuel tank (which I probably should have done on mine were I a little smarter) or anyone that just wants to run an in-tank pump for their carburetor with an adjustable fuel regulator that returns the excess fuel to the tank. Replacing a first gen tank with aftermarket gets a bit ridiculous requiring extensive cutting and modification. Staying with your original tank is normally the better idea.
.
This kit from Tanks Inc. will allow for that with a bit of fabrication on the tank itself, making modification to the body of the car unnecessary. This company uses Walbro pumps that come in a variety of pressures and volumes. This one is a 190 lph model which is overkill for what I need but has the correct pressure. The only pump I saw with lower volume was for a TBI setup that was just short on the 40psi that my injection system required. The excess volume will have to be returned to the tank.
.
I am currently installing this kit as a fix for one of Ford's less than stellar ideas and wanted to show it before I put it in. The tray on the bottom of the pump stand is to keep the fuel from sloshing away from the in-tank pump. If you run an in-tank pump dry you will very likely damage it. Most, if not all, fuel tanks that used a carburetor (and my stupid fuel injection setup from Ford) did not have baffles or trays to accommodate an in-tank pump. I cut out the original opening and welded in the ring (it can be done without welding as well). I can now bolt in the new pump setup. You need to know the depth from the top of your mounting point and the bottom of the tank to modify the stand, keeping the tray at the bottom of the tank. I would recommend only making an opening large enough for the inside of the C-ring and welding it to the top of the opening. It is far easier and less messy than trying to match the ring to an exact hole.
Note: if you are going to cut and weld on your tank take precautions to fully drain and wipe out the tank leaving no gas fumes. I watched a friend turn his tank into a torpedo whooshing away down the street when he ignored this. You will also need fuel resistant gasket sealer and some sort of tank sealer for the inside of the fuel tank. Pinholes are a bitch.
.
The pump unit is complete with pass through wires and hoses, but there is no way to mount the original fuel gauge sending unit to the pump stand. I had to use one of their standalone sensors and weld in a mounting pad for that as well (again it can be done without welding). You will need to know the depth before ordering as the sensor cannot be modified and must be ordered at the correct length. Ordering a C-ring for the sensor mount will be necessary as it does not come with the sensor. I used the reed type magnetic sensor as it goes straight up and down requiring little room. The float is unlikely to catch on anything and should be more reliable than the original. They have other sensors as well.
.
My application uses a truly odd ohm range for the original dash gauge. I purchased one of their Meter Match boxes that goes in-line from the tank to the gauge. It can be used with any resistance type gauge (i.e. temperature, fuel, and oil pressure). This box allows you to set the empty and full settings so you can make the gauge read correctly. It also has high and low alarm settings for those with ADD while driving.
.
An adjustable fuel regulator will also be required for a complete kit. I didn't need one for this particular application.
.
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