Mike, the REA Dolphin tail catback does not have a resonated midsection, but does come with a pretty large muffler.

 

The good news is it doesn't look like any Bumper was Harmed while using that. Was the pic taken after a good amount of use or when it was brand new? Looks to be a good distance away from the bumper.
Thanks for Posting that pic

 

I am crossed up because I like the large Import exhausts but I'm getting old and the noise wears on me. I def need a resonated center section/midpipe.
I know it sounds Salacious of me to say.. But a cat would t be bad either to cut down on the fumes...

 

I'm running a resonated MP on mine (old SR Motorsports) and the sound under light load cruising (volume-wise) is similar to when I was running the Racing Beat dual tip, but with a slightly deeper tone. Funny, I'm also considering adding a highflow CB back into my system to remove the stink. Tired of my wife always knowing when I've been out with my other "girlfriend."

To answer your question, my bumper does not experience any additional heat damage or discoloration from using the Dolphin tail. Just the normal soot build-up, which is typical for a premixed car.

 

I have a "spare" midpipe i had made a while ago which utilizes a metallic high flow cat and a resonator. If this set up has your interest, send me your number via PM and I will text you a few pictures.

 

Mike you need to give your calipers a refresh they look a little crusty

 

REA dolphin with smb midcat/muffler is the answer

I have an RB dual with SBM and it's super quiet and once hot no more gas smell

 

+1
I used to have one and it was nice. Went back to a Bonez high flow though. Can't remember why...

 

BBK on List. I don't like doing things twice and I even have some black painted stock calipers in a box.
Will deal with all that in a few months. Yes I know they look aweful lol

 

Thanks Fritz. Going to def do that.

 

Mike, I know where you can find a BBK or two

 

Just curious, which collectors insurance did you go with? What's a summary about them as in how many miles per year, etc.?

 

I'm using American Modern. It was about $420 a year for an agreed value of $22k. The mileage limits are more about what the NJ collector car registration requires and that is 3k miles per year and it's checked every other year. So a total of 6k miles in 2 years. The mileage is checked at the NJ inspection station. The benefit of having it is that you don't need an emissions inspection and the collector car insurance is much less than paying for regular use insurance and it is an agreed value instead of fair market. So you won't get screwed.

Particulars of the collector car insurance is that every licensed driver in the household needs to show a car other than the collector car that is registered for daily use. Also the collector car has to be stored in a locked garage.

You can read the stipulations on the NJ DMV website if you want more details on if your car qualifies.

 

Ok so for some updates.
I ended up buying a Catback (Tanabe Medallion Touring in SS). I needed to get one quickly as I am having my rear bumper repainted an wanted to get the new one before the bumper went back on.

Also I want some nice new or like new 99 spec tail lights. Mine are converted 99 spec lights. So if you have a super clean set you want to let go on I am buying some in the next day or two.

Also after taking off the rear bumper skin I realized the car had a small accident and had some work done on the rear passenger side. Nothing major but nothing had shown up on the Carfax on the car. We are actually going to redo some of the repairs that were done. A friend of mine owns his own mobile paint and body work business and is doing the rear bumper and will fix the repairs as well.

He took the rear bumper to have a computer analysis done that will match the paint 99.9% perfect.
After he researched the CYM color and my Vin and build date he found that 5, yes I said 5..

There were 5 formulas for Competion Yellow Mica that Mazda made. Also depending on the build date of the car it looks like it would fall into one of these formulas. Well... Not really sure in my case.
My car was repainted in 2001 or 2002 and I have no idea who did the work or if they did as much research or even if they painted it one of the exact factory CYM colors or if they created their own based on what they had or the customer wanted.

So we are going to color match it. He is also going to touch up and blend a couple of the nicks elsewhere on the car like drivers side mirror.
This should make the car close to perfect as far as the paint is concerned. It's already an easy 9/10 now but should be close to a 10/10.
We are also looking to paint the inside of the hatch and maybe do some other projects to elevate the car more.


You can see the paint work done on the right. We are going to take that down and fix a few issues and make it perfect. All new hardware is going to be ordered and looks like I need some new rear struts for the hatch.

 

Wow this car is absolutely stunning bud good job clean and simple

 

Keep on cracking away Mike, I love where this thread is headed

 

So I have decided to go Full Rotard.

I just ordered the Xcessive lower intake manifold and the IR Performance Ultimate Fuel System.
Consists of the FFE rails and 725/2000 ID injectors, fuel lab FPR, AN fittings and braided lines throughout.

My current set up works fine with the 550/1680 injectors...

I hate to fix what isn't broke most of the time but I am hoping these upgrades will modernize the fuel system with arguably the most premium of set ups. Make it easier to tune and create the most stable and precise fuel delivery currently available. My aim is to mitigate risks to the motor and I feel this is one way to do it.

I ordered the AEM water meth injection kit as well. It's another step to mitigating the major cause of engine failure in these cars. Heat which causes detonation that in turn breaks Apex seals.
The unequal length stock lower intake manifold makes it difficult to know if you have enough fuel to the rear rotor as the wideband is reading the combination of the front and rear rotor.

Although I'm not planning to run real high levels of boost. I know the Xcessive lim will equal out the air fuel to both rotors. It gives me peace of mind. I've had a history with these motors and I want to change the outcome.

I've taken the advice of my friends Goodfellafd3s, Scrub, IR Performance, XLR8 and my tuner JhnRx7.

Also against the explicit advice of XLR8, turbodrx7, LS owners everywhere.

 

Add to the list the Fast Reacting Air Intake Temp sensor...

 

Looks like I have a torn CV boot. Have grease slung under the car. Will add that to the list.
In the mean time Removed the old exhaust and started unpacking the Tanabe Medallion.

 

Looking good Mike!

 

Let's see that pretty catback in all it's glory!

If Ray Crowe were still slinging parts I'd tell you to pick up the updated rear taillight bulb harnesses from him. It's an improved design with more slack and more robust housings for the bulbs.

 

I will get more pics before finishing up. Need to remove the rear plastics. My paint guy wants to refinish them. They have some sound deadening overspray on them.

I need to stop looking around when I am near the car. I keep finding things to fix.

 

Exhaust is on. Very nicely made.
Removed the rear plastics to have them refinished.

 

Looks good, how's it sound?

 

Sounds good. It's quiet and I'm glad. I don't have a resonated mid-pipe so it is loud enough to leave you with your ears ringing after a long drive with the previous cat-back.
The muffler looks to be about 25% larger and it was noticeably more mellow. I have yet to drive it but I will in about another week.
I anticipate it will be exactly what I was after but I will report back. I mostly want to get rid of the drone. I've previously owned the Greddy SP2 but it's no longer made. That exhaust was very similar in sound to this Tanabe.