oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

Ok, so i was bored outta my head and have a bad back at the moment, blown through all the newspapers, forums and internet-games, so i decided to make a small worklog on my FD. Feel free to post suggestions, better solutions etc, thats what forums are for
Translating my worklog from norwegian to english now, so the first few posts might be abit misleading regarding time spent, work etc..

Short story, the last 2,5 years has been a living nightmare for me. While work has been a madness the last 4-5 years, with sick work hours, bad management and selv-centered bosses and leaders wearing out people in their 20s so bad they get sick for months and dont care to replace em or pay the ones hanging in there good money, i have this self-pride in what i do, and i will go to any means to get the work done. It wears you down bit by bit, but you hang in there for the others and try to keep em afloat and on their feet. the management takes advantage of this and put more work on us, selv pride kicks in, we manage, and so the evil circle has been drawn... the downward spiral...

First, the FD broke down due to a waterseal blown on a mazda reman engine. Picked the engine down, when i suddenly and unexpectedly lost a close friend of mine. He`d killed himself for reasons nobody knew about and nobody knows about this day. Barely got inside the front door from the funeral when i got another phonecall, a friend of mine had died in a car accident, so new funeral... cant get any worse..?
A short while later, i lost a dear family member to brain anurism after decades of diabetes-years....
Then, a while later i had to go through a loong fight with insurance company about a drywall behind the kitchen that had been waterdamaged.. Me and my girlfriend had bought a house, everything seemed fine, until i one day got curious about the back wall underneath the sink.. It was completely soaked and molded..... as im allergic and have astma, i cant live in a house like that, so we used all our savings and fixed the wall, and then take the fight with the insurancecompany...
finally got it sorted after months... and then she dropped the bomb on me.. Its over, she didnt wanna be with me anymore...
I hit the wall...bad...! Buried myself in work, more work, cut contact with all of my friends, and just lived under the radar for 1,5 years, staid with friends and family, while she(my ex) stayed in the house... finally, after 1,5 years, she contacted me and said she`d moved out and someone needs to live in the house... I moved in, and decided to keep the house... So, to "refurbish and renovate" my own life, i started fixing up my house, and "renovate" her out of the house... Walked into the garage a week after i`d moved in again, and sat down and just looked at my downed poor FD sitting there... And decided that house is house, it will have to wait... I need the FD on the road again to move on and get myself sorted once again...! So, i began the restauration and rebuild of my old FD, and see it as "therapeutic" selv-help...!

Plans:

Car, 1993 silver touring FD

Engine and surroundings:

Streetport 13B rew
KG 850/1600 fuel setup with two nippondenso supra pumps
HKS twin power with MSD coils
Big FMIC kit
big radiator
3" turboback exhaust
BNR stage 3s in seq
AI water injection, im leaning towards Aquamist HFS-6 with aquamist summer for RX7s. Abit open on this point yet. I want AI i can map together with fuelmap, and a good set of failsafes i can program into the setup electronically, as mechanical failsafes are WAY too slow to prevent disaster.. Any thougts here, please shout.
Apexi PFC and commander
Blitz SBC-ID dual boostcontroller with a Blitz datalogger on the side.

suspension and braces:
FD shocks with Tein S-tech springs
Tanabe rollbars
a known brand of strutbraces front and back, yet to be decided.
dragon performance diff and gearbox brace
Polybushes diffmount and enginemounts

Wheels and brakes:
RO_JA R2 rims 9x8 front on 245s, 10x18 rear on 275s.
standard FD brakes

Looks:
99spec front
99spec wing with carbon winglip
Feed side underskirt-thingys in carbon
shine auto street diffuser rear.
99spec lights
CF hood

Prolly a ton of things ive left out or forgotten, but im going for a mild and "stock" look with small touchups. enginebay will be simple black on black with no crome. Reason for this is simple. My car is imported on a silly rule that states that the car has to appear original to keep its plates... If im busted by the vehicle inspectors with this setup, im screwed and have to put it all back to original state again.. So, fingers crossed

Starting point:

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

GPsports midpipe and back. Nice and shiney!!! Nomatter WHAT the ladies says, boys... Size matters...ALLWAYS!!!
Or maybe im just compensating for a small displacement...?



Using a well known measuring stick:









Diffbrace and transmission brace from dragon performance



Innovative LM1 wideband

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

New radiator, shiney things....! Again, a well known measuring unit





virker som gode greier dette


My cat was more interrested in the package itself...

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

BNR stage 3 seqs, old news perhaps, but still gold news..!




rewelded Efini Ypipe




efini crosspipe:


seals:


Soooo beautiful..!:

rx7rcer09

looks great! keep us posted

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

Finally, we bought the house and i have a nice garage to do work on my cars..!
Started taring down the engine from the top, just to inspect, study and have a look.
The engine blew a waterseal, so complete stripdown is in order. As i dont have an engine lift available now, ill start with the stripdown while the engine is in the car...
MILLIONS of clips and connectors, crisp dry wires and bonehard small hoses and crap...! This has a mazda reman engine in it, but it appears that the people that swapped the engine, pulled loose the clips and connectors by pulling the wires.. wich exposed the copper... that started to erode in the seaside salty weathercondidions... And having a lol-vented hood alowing water to drip down on wires and connectors probably havent helped much... a new wiring harness is in order..!






hmnmm, no wonder it started to leak water on that last trip..!






the infamous "crows nest" DjeeeZUZ...!

rx7rcer09

did the car catch fire at one point? the rust looks to be from heat damage on the drivers side where the factory battery mount is located.

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

discovered why the car leaked a small amount of steering fluid I believe... the old owner(norwegian with a barn) had mice...!
The window-washer hose had also been chewed over.
I really hope the steering rack has survived, i dont dare thing how expensive this thing is..





A nice treat of a radiator suddenly appeared from the deep darks of the engine bay:


The only rust on the car, to be fixed with an engine bay respray in satin black for clean and neat looks, while keeping it "inspection friendly"


Yes, we defo need new wiring harness...!



engine out



Took me a fair bit of swaring, a phonecall and a glance at a youtube vid before i understood the clutchthing on this car..!


the end

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

hey

No, the rust comes from two things.. Seaside salty weather here in norway, and the seibon hugely vented hood that let water drip down on the rebar holding the radiator, the battery tray and pulleys, pulling the salt down with the water... The rebar was damaged some time before i got the car and the metal must have been exposed, so it had started to rust. the battery tray was abit loose when i got the car( i tend to go over EVERY thing bolted to the car when i get a new car, to check for loose bolts etc), and i bet it has been loose for a while and have eated away the paint, again exposing bare metal to the harsh weather up here..!
It will be taken care of when i respray the engine bay

Cheers

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

striped down the engine to shortblock... and tilted the engine over...
this is what came out of the exhaust ports, minus the oil...



waterseal much ye...!

Nice sound from the engine too, ayeh?



See vid, sounds like a blown water pump

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...90309_1850.mp4

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

at this point, the relationship went to pieces.... and the car sat for 1,5 years while i was away... Finally have the house now, so i have access to the poor thing... It is time to revive this japanese supersportscar..!

Testfitted the exhaust, cant wait to hear this baby BRAP once again...!




99spec rears in, looks so much better!



FMIC fitted, like a glove! Used the hoodlatchbolt to bolt it dead centre, worked like a charm!

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

The end of the day, a cold beer, good work done, nice and warm, sunset... and oh.. what do i spot in the background there...?

evilg

Is that a Cosmo? does it have a 20B in it? and does it want to donate the 20B to the RX7?

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

Evilg, 10 points
Its a E.CCS 20B cosmo, the top of the line model that came out, on licence plates.
It wants to keep its 20B as its the "big brother" and needs the muscle to move its huge bulk But, trust me, ive given the 20B conversion a ton of thoughts..
Its been really temting, but i have to keep the 20B in the cowschmoo

evilg

Nice work... those are even rare in New Zealand (Land of second hand japanese imported cars) and even rarer to see them with a 20b still in them. Good stuff man!

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

Really like what you're doing with the project! keep it up! also, you should consider giving the car a bath before you continue to work on it because all that dust can scratch the nice paint if you are touching the car, brushing against it, etc. Exciting to see all the new goodies you have to put into it!

zeroG

iTrader: (28)

Don't ruin it, keep the 20B in the cosmo

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

Hey man
Thanks I have considered it myself, but i have to clean out the garage floor first.

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

No worries, the 20B stays in the cosmo
Its next on the project list. Lower it, respray and light bodywork, pull engine and rebuild it with a small streetport and singleturbo Keep it as a superfast and sleek highwaycruiser

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

So, engine is away...I had fitted other major parts...What to do...?
Was sitting in the garage one day after i`d had a major cleanup, enjoying a cold beer in the nice weather, looked at the car and wondered if any of the bolts on the suspension was possible to loosen at all.. And then, the snowball started to roll..

Thanks to WD-40, airtools, elbowgrease and sledgehammer, i had the front subframe with all attachments out after about one hour... Man, those steering end joints, hate em...! And the ABS sensor unit on the hubs...? Dont even mention it..! Most of theese bolts i dont think has been turned since the car was new...!

So, i disassembled the front subframe, started to clean off old rust, wash all units separately and paint em. Used simple and good rustpreventing(yes i know alot of the parts are aluminium, but wanted to keep it simple and clean looking) paint that you use on iron fences. Went with glossy black. Clean and inspection friendly.







Now that the front subframe was all nice and shiney, the rear had to be done as well. Pulled it out and compared with cleaned front subframe:

arghx

iTrader: (3)

First, hats off to you for getting through all your personal challenges and struggles in a positive way. Working on an FD is much healthier than say turning to drugs... but probably more expensive

Have you purchased your fuel system yet? Personally I feel that 850/1680 + dual Supra pumps is too much for BNR turbos. It's extra hassle and complexity. Single rewired Supra or Cosmo pump + 550/1680 or 550/2200 would be plenty of fuel for that and it will save money. I know how expensive things are over there due to taxes. I have a few friends from Norwegia (as I affectionately call it).

I'm also not a fan of 850 primaries in the sense that they introduce additional tuning hassles and for most builds 550 primaries are actually fine.

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

Just some light work done today, reasembled the rear subframe after paint




mmm, cant wait to get the car on the ground on theese again:




My dog was going about its business in the garden when he got very curious about something he found
Two hedgehogs just...doin their thang



Dennis(my dog) got abit too curious when he poked his nose too close to the small rascals, so when the male hedgehog felt Dennis nose touch him, he jumped up, so here we are, picking a few small hedgehogpins outta his nose


Now its midsummerfest over here, the beer is out and the bondfires are lit up, have a good one all!

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

It's prety funny but awesome to see all those parts hanging in your garage that you cleaned and painted.

What did you use to clean off each individual part, and prep for paint?

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

I went the simple and durable route, as i have to keep the car discrete regarding the type of registration it has. We have a fked up rule here in Norway that places all US cars under a 1.15 rule stating that the car has to be "as it was rolling out of the dealer" to keep its plates. So, basically, this means, if you are stopped by the vehicle and transportation office-personel(yes, they have vehicle checkpoints along alot of roads), and you have blue silicone hoses instead of the OEMs, they can take your plates and demand that you fit original hoses before you have to take the car to their office/station to have a full checkup and get your plates back again if they approve the car...!
God i hate this country, carwise.....!

Well, back to the car.
First i cleaned off the worst grease and dirt with a brush and degreaser, before i hosed it down. Then, i went on with a steel brush(the type you use to remove loose paint from wooden house outer walls. This removes most of the old rust and corrosion. Then, a new washdown with degreaser.
For paint, I went simple black durable paint. The type you use on old iron fences. As long as you apply a rich layer with a paintbrush, the paint will smoothen itself out(as you can see on the front subframe pictures). Its no pro paintjob, but hey. Its a daily driver, and fancy superexpencive paintjobs will get chipped and scratched before you know it anyways. It looks good enough, its under the car, and can handle rouch conditions witout deteriorating fast.. The good thing about this paint, is that you can either apply it with a brush, or you can thin it out and spray it on. Either way, it has anti-rust components in it(eats leftover rust) and forms a rugged and durable paint-seal to it. Also, it has kind of a rubbery feel to it, so it handles hits and strafes from stones pretty well without cracking.

Heres a link to hammer paint. The one i got, had rustpreventive capabilities as well. Hammer paint contains mica, mmmmm!

I think you have this over there, as a product called Rustoleum or Hammerite?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hammer_paint

oyvindjs

iTrader: (4)

Hi, and thank you!
I went 1,5 years without access to my fd OR my cosmo, so i was going on the walls...!
And ye, it probably is more expencive to own an FD than to turn to drugs! But, its just as addictive

My fuelkit has been purchased 2 years ago and is just laying on the shelf waiting for an engine to serve.
What do you mean by rewired supra/cosmo pump?

Haha, Norwegia, would it by any chance be related to a cheese we produce, called "norwegia" ?

Ill give the 550/850-thing some thought, thanks for the tip