RuffRx7

Have you checked that it has vacuum?
Sounds like the flutters is because the BOV isn't dumping, which BOV is it?

lukes

It is a kiwi made BOV which needs to be loosened up . It's definitely not dumping and creating the flutter. I'm trying to figure out the whistle more importantly.

RuffRx7

Best bet is to do a boost leak test and see if you can find the leak, first prize will be to see if there is a boost leak that is creating the whistle sound.

HoffDaddy

Hey check this out! Only other car I've actually hear make that noise.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocZ0veZjiBs#t=188
That car runs good, I wonder if its actually a problem, maybe just an annoyance?

lukes

The struggle is real polishing up the manifold!

Cut off all the tabs etc I don't need .

4g63rotary

iTrader: (5)

The struggle is real hahahaha, you ain't lie'n!

lukes

This could be why my headlights don't work ...



There's no plug for this at all. But what's the blue wire?

duck91

iTrader: (1)

Looks like battery power. Out of the main fuse box many of the 10awg blue wires power a relay. The black/white wire is switched ignition.

lukes

So the big black plug isn't the signal and power to the lights?
I have no
Lights.. Won't pop up or even turn on when the lights are down .

duck91

iTrader: (1)

Just got to the office and checked my harness. That blue/black wire shouldn't have the wire covered with raychem on it someone tapped into that fuse. No idea what they are using it for. It should be a 40A fuse for B2. Black/White is the retractor, White/Green is EGI and Red is Head. I would check to see what the fuse they put in B2 because it appears to be the wrong colour, at least compared to mine. B2 and B1 (located in the bigger fuse and EGI/Main relay box) seem like a likely culprit since they impact a few different functions.

I am a bit of the blind leading the blind here since I have not had this problem before.
Here is the diagram from the manual as it pertains specifically to the retracting lights.

You may want to get yourself the full wiring diagram pdf though.

GURLB8

I suspect that connector plugs into the bottom of the fuse box you are holding the lid for ^^^
if I've trade me stalked you correctly and you're after 3 wire (H4) headlight connectors, they're available from most auto electricians - try Taylor Auto Electrical in New Lynn.

After thought: This car hasn't had non pop up lights in it at some stage? Could explain why it has been disconnected and a fusible link fitted to power up the bulbs?

Cheers.

lukes

You stalk my trademe listings huh! Haha anything you like there Bruv?

I dont even have that fuse box at all. Like its completely not there at all.
I've got a engine loom on its way. I suspect all
I will need when I get the fuse box is to connect power to it. My battery is in the boot so I can't just put it straight on the terminal !

duck91

iTrader: (1)

I am sort of doing a wire tuck right now too. My engine is in the rear of the car too. I ran 2awg from through the cabin and up to the fuse box that the plug and fuse box belongs too. Sort of making a positive bus then everything in the engine bay gets powered from there.

GURLB8

You can run a cable from the starter positive up to that fuse box (when you get it) to power it up... Don't you just love acquiring cars that have been "professionally deloomed" ? Lol.

Cheers.

joshrulz

Who makes that bov ? got link.
Thanks

lukes

http://www.performancecar.co.nz/comp...blow-off-valve

I think they only made run off them by the looks... Nice Piece tho.. Does it job

haltechguy

Nice build, some nice parts there!
did you sort the low power/slow turbo response? id expect closer to 450 hp at the hubs (stp) on 17psi, not the 385 hp your dyno sheet shows. there is def a problem there somewhere and when you find it the turbo will spool a lot faster too. the whistling sounds like it coming from the bov its not leaking under boost is it?. if a boost leak isnt the issue then maybe a restricted exhaust?

lukes

Thanks dude, No the issue still hasn't been sorted, I haven't really driven it since I got it back from the tuner a month or two ago along with a $6300 bill... The Bov doesn't dump and that annoying whistle also, so I don't drive it. So exhaust is straight thru to the muffler also. I've driven it around the block to get some gas and there is no exciting power ...really Disappointed

RuffRx7

Maybe purchase a new BOV and see if it fixers your problem or try borrow one and test if it is BOV that's the problem, did you manage to get a boost leak test done?

haltechguy

If the BOV isnt the problem then maybe try another tuner?

lukes

So I got a second hand HKS elbow without a BOV and the whistle is still there.

Will be putting on a whole new manifold and blocking off the IAC toady. hope for the best.

lukes

I'm at my wits end.

After eliminating the blow off valve , I replaced the upper intake manifold and throttle body with a totally different unit... With a block off plate over the IAC .

To my surprise the whistle was still there and the BOV still wouldn't dump.

On top of that when I switched the TPS SENSOR back to the old manifold my engine won't idle properly.

Do I start looking lower at possible injector boot leaks for the whistle?
I turned all of them in there holes and no change in the whistle . The whistle starts at about 2.2
To 3krpm....

Over it..

RuffRx7

Take it to someone to get a boost leak test done on it, could be from anywhere, easiest and cheapest way to find the leak, you can even make a DIY boost leak tester, if it isn't a boost leak then you need to take it to a tuner to check it out.

lukes

The Tuner knowingly gave it to me like this along with a $6000+ ... I think more like $6300 bill. so yeah hopefully he comes right.

lukes

Some pics from last night .