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Trackday/TT FD Build - EFR, Megasquirt, & more!

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Old 07-11-16, 06:17 PM
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Trackday/TT FD Build - EFR, Megasquirt, & more!

I've been meaning to start a build thread on my car for quite some time, but haven't gotten around to it until now. I'm around 1.5 years deep in this build, so I'll try to break up the work I've already completed into several replies that I'll post in the coming weeks.

Intro

My previous RX-7 was an '87 Turbo II. I bought this car in '07 with a blown engine (blown coolant seal which snowballed into trashed irons) and rebuilt it for my high school senior project. I kept it pretty close to stock throughout college, mainly just using it as a weekend toy. I was heavily involved in Formula SAE in college, so I didn't spend as much time as I otherwise would have building the FC (but I didn't have the funds to do so in college anyway). After starting my full time job, I started looking for ways to get more into road course driving/racing. To do that, I wanted a car to dedicate to the cause:
Option 1: I have an RX-8 that's built for the STX autocross class. I've done quite a few track days with this car; but it's pretty low on power and it's almost too easy to drive on a road course. Also, it's still really competitive nationally for autocross, and I don't want to compromise that setup.
RX-8 Auto-X video:
RX-8 Track day (Road Atlanta) video:
Option 2: Use the FC for a track day car. Yeahhh, it could work, it definitely wouldn't be too easy to drive. The problem is, I'm 6'3" with a long torso, and the FC had a sunroof, so fitting in it would always be an issue. Also, I'm a bit of a suspension kinematics guru, and a car with a MacPherson strut front / semi-trailing arm rear suspension made me throw up in my mouth a little bit. Especially when I already have a double-wishbone RX-8 in the garage.
Option 3: Sell the FC and get an FD. The secret love child of my RX-8 and FC; double wishbone suspension with the power potential of a turbo rotary. Plus, I could get a non-sunroof model and have a chance of fitting with a helmet with the right seat placement.
Yeah, I chose option 3.

So, I started looking around for an FD. I favored a stock-ish car so I could have a blank sheet of paper to start with. Also, sunroof cars were out, and I secretly preferred a red car (even if I told everyone I didn't care about the color). I knew it would be a long search, so I spent some time doing an "experimental" build on my FC and tooling up my shop (basement/garage). I got a 7670 EFR turbo and built a custom V-mount. In the process, I bought a TIG welder for my shop (gives you superpowers), and I already had a mini-mill and mini-lathe, along with the other standard shop tools. So I put all of this together with a Megasquirt MS3X and had a pretty nice FC mountain carver:





Anyway, back to the FD search. At this point, I had written some XML code that would scan every Craigslist in a 500 mile radius and dump the results into an excel sheet that I was keeping (RX7 or RX-7 or RX 7, 93, 94, 95... you get the idea). I would run this a few times a day to look for new listings. Finally, in April 2015, this popped up:



1993 R1, 36K miles, all stock, $16K. I found the ad within an hour of it being posted and called him immediately. It turns out, an older guy from Tennessee had bought this car in 2008 and parked it in his garage under a car cover. He died in 2015, and it was inherited by the guy who posted the ad. He didn't really know anything about FD's, he just had a bunch of inherited stuff and was looking to unload it. So, with that said, I drove out to pick it up that weekend. The car was now at the NC outer banks, which was about a 6 hour drive from my house. I opted to rent a uhaul trailer and pull it back, rather than try to road trip in a car that hasn't really been driven since 2008. The transaction went pretty well. The car wasn't "showroom perfect" like I had secretly hoped, it had spent the early part of its life in Florida, so there was a bit of corrosion here and there. Still, no rust at all, and pretty fantastic mechanically, super quick start-up. I ended up getting it for $15.5K.

Arrived to pick up the car the night before. This is still the only time I've been to the beach in the last 3 years, heh.


The drive home:


Finally home:






Initial plans were just to play around with it for a bit in stock-ish form. The stock twins had always intrigued me, and this was probably one of the last examples with a working stock sequential system. In the meantime, I parted out my FC and started buying parts to build the FD.

Anyway, that's all for now. Like I said, I'm 1.5 years into the build, so there's a lot more to come just to get up to the present state of the car.
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Old 07-11-16, 07:28 PM
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I can't wait to see the rest of this thread. I always love track car builds.
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Old 07-11-16, 08:47 PM
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Killer deal. Can't wait till you get this build thread current. It's like binge watching a whole season of a TV show. Can't wait.
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Old 07-11-16, 08:53 PM
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Post up some pics of your home shop too! I'm psyching myself up to get a mill and a lathe.
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Old 07-12-16, 12:00 AM
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Tall driver mods

The first step was to shoehorn myself into the car. The stock seat wasn't comfortable for me to sit in as I had to lean really far back to get head clearance. Additionally, the stock steering wheel felt too large in diameter and would hit my knees.

Luckily, I had a knockoff Bride Low-max (Vios III?) seat and 350mm Momo Monte Carlo steering wheel left-over from my FC. I put the wheel on and spent some time trying different seating positions with the seat "loose" in the car. The location I ended up favoring was: seat bottom on the floor, maybe ~30 degrees reclined. This felt really comfortable and still gave just enough headroom to clear the headliner with a helmet on. The Momo wheel hub and a 1" spacer put the steering wheel around 2" closer to me than the stock wheel, which made the slightly reclined position work well.

To make the "on the floor" seating position work, I rigid-mounted the seat rather than using sliding seat rails. I made some low-profile faux seat rails:



L-brackets connect the faux rails to the seat:





Also, since the seat belt buckle mounted to the stock seat, I needed a way to mount with the new seat. So, I designed this (also shown above):



It mounts between the right rear seat mount bolt and the seatbelt anchor bolt in the floor pan. I forget how much load I applied to it in that FEA, but I remember being satisfied that the buckle would break before my mount would.

And voila, now a 95th percentile male fits comfortably with a helmet.

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Old 07-12-16, 12:18 AM
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And, per request, some shop pics:









Both the mill and lathe are from Harbor Freight, I bought both of them 4 years ago for ~$800 total. I have countless machining hours on both of them and they've been awesome. I upgraded the mill to a belt drive and an air spring and added a quick-change tool post to the lathe, all from Little Machine Shop. The lathe even has and auto-feed and can do threading. Yeah, they're small, but they're big enough for 95% of the parts I need to make for a car.

The TIG is an Eastwood TIG 200. It does AC and DC, HF start, pre and post flow control, pretty much everything you need. The pedal is a little bit non-linear, but it's easy enough to get used to.
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Old 07-14-16, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 87FCTurboII View Post
And, per request, some shop pics:
Sweet setup!!
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Old 07-17-16, 10:39 PM
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Random playing with the stock turbos

Not too much in this update, just some minor work on the car while it had the stock sequential system.

All of the vacuum hoses were original, and the few that I could get to easily were rock hard, so I decided to replace those just for good measure. Plus, it gave me a good excuse to dive into the engine bay a little bit.

There are a couple of turbos under there, somewhere...




This picture says it all... One of the Mazda engineering managers in the early 90's must have had tons of stock in their vacuum solenoid/line supplier.


With the vacuum lines complete (one of the most difficult things I've done on a car), I installed a set of CXracing coilovers as a placeholder until I could decide on something better. For future reference, these aren't bad as far as a budget coilover goes. They're as good as any other "cheap" coilover I've used on other cars (BC racing, Stance, Megan).



Also picked up some RPF1's from the RX7club classifieds. 17x9 +45 fronts, 17x9.5 +38 rears. Awesome fitment. (RPF1's are my go-to wheel choice, if you couldn't notice...)



In the meantime, I kept tracking the RX-8. If you have an SCCA track night venue nearby, I highly recommend it, it's an awesome way to break up the work week. Here's a video from Atlanta Motorsports Park:
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Old 07-17-16, 11:00 PM
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At this point, I was getting pretty excited to get the FD on track. I had spent too much time in the RX-8 at track days catching people in the corners and being held up, only to have them pull away from me on the straights and repeat the cycle in the next set of corners. More power would hopefully give me a bit more freedom to work through traffic, not to mention the other advantages.

So, the single turbo project begun. I briefly considered tracking with the stock twins, but I wanted a more reliable system (especially cooling).

The last pictures of the FD before being torn down for the transformation:





And a preview of what's to come. Seems like a suitable replacement!

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Old 07-18-16, 08:41 AM
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I too have an EFR7670 on my list. I'm hoping to get my project going soon too. Looking forward to the continuation of your build!
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Old 07-18-16, 07:13 PM
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Is that the new dual AR housing EFR? I only saw pictures of those at SEMA.
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Old 07-18-16, 09:19 PM
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Turbo stuff

A few details about my turbo selection: Power goals for this project were somewhere between 300 and 350whp. I feel like this is a good, reliable power level for a 2700lb track car on street tires. At some point in the not-so-distant future, I would like to build the car for NASA TT3 -- which means a power goal of ~320whp without aero or ~305whp with aero. This narrowed it down to an EFR 7670 or 8374, so let's dig into the details to choose between the two:

7670:


8374:


Using Matchbot, I plotted a 12psi, 2000-8000rpm flow curve on both both compressor maps. The points fit the 7670 compressor map fairly well, with the peak efficiency islands sitting in the middle of the powerband and no major drop-offs at the high or low flow points. The 8374 map looks like a bit of a mismatch at first glance, but the high RPM compressor efficiency is pretty outstanding. The surge line looks to be in a bad spot, but the 8374 cars I've seen on the forums don't seem to have low RPM surge issues. Without getting too lost in efficiency comparisons, it's a little more helpful to look at the resulting compressor outlet temperatures, also a (raw) output from Matchbot:



The 8374 has a bit of a temperature spike at low-mid RPM, but it falls back down once it hits its efficiency sweet spot. I don't think the temp spike is a huge deal; it's at low RPM (low mass flow) and the intercooler can soak up the extra heat pretty easily. The 7670 is definitely at a slight disadvantage here, with a climbing temperature towards redline and ~20F hotter temps at 8000rpm. In the grand scheme of things, 20F is only worth ~10hp, and the intercooler should help to bring that 20F delta down to, say, 10F. So the steady-state performance advantage goes to the 8374, but the 7670 isn't at a huge disadvantage.

Another goal of the build was super-fast transient response. Being mainly a track car, every tenth of a second of turbo lag makes the car more difficult to drive. EFR turbos are well-known for low lag in general, but the 7670 should have a slight advantage here due to the lower inertia.

At the time I had been making this decision, I had also been following Cartmill's 8374 build thread. He seemed to have a minimum power level of 335whp at the limit of boost creep (12-13psi) -- I would like the option to run lower power than this. Forum feedback seemed to suggest that the 7670 could run sub-10psi boost level, so the advantage went to the 7670 here.

So, all things considered, I chose the 7670. Now, somebody has already noticed the dual actuators in the picture in my previous post. I have a prototype version of the Variable Turbine Volute (VTV) turbine housing. I got it to provide some "field feedback," but since the development is still ongoing, I won't be sharing any VTV-specific results in this thread. Just pretend it's the standard 0.92 A/R IWG housing (which, as long as the valve is kept open, it is). It was shown at SEMA and you should be able to find some details on Google.
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Old 07-19-16, 12:59 AM
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I like your thought process on your selection. I am personally leaning toward the 7670 for my car. I'm still trying to make up my mind if I want to run the low or high compression rotors.

The guys at Turblown have tons of experience with the EFRs and usually steer people into the 8374, simply because the spool characteristics are not "that" different. I have seen loads of videos on both turbos and they spool lightening fast.

I will simply pretend I didn't see the second actuator. When you are able to share about it, please let us know. I really dig the potential of that turbine housing. With that housing, you could feasibly run a much larger turbo and get even better low end torque, like say a 8380 hybrid (if they ever make one).
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Old 07-19-16, 05:44 PM
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NASA TT3 -- which means a power goal of ~320whp without aero or ~305whp with aero

Well, NASA dyno classing.
You chose correctly since you want to restrict horsepower, but torque, turbo response and boost are unrestricted.

7163 and higher boost might have been even better for 320rwhp if you think you could keep that combination running long enough (higher exhaust manifold pressure/less reliability).

I think EFR 7163 super core in stock '89-91 RX-7 manifold and turbo housing would be great for max power under 5,250rpm while limiting power after 5,250rpm.

I don't agree with your inputs into matchbot for a rotary. Those flow numbers look low to me unless you are plotting for ~250rwhp there and a big pressure drop on the inlet and outlet of the turbo for the PRs.
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Old 07-19-16, 09:37 PM
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The 76 series consistently seems too small for "large" track scenarios(not autocross). But, that's just the view from my armchair, watching all you nuts actually make it happen.
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Old 07-19-16, 09:48 PM
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I keep seeing Elliot with Turblown say that the 8374 spools just about the same and has much better midrange. On the other hand, you already have a turbo with the VSV setup. The response very well could be amazingly better.
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Old 07-20-16, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BLUE TII View Post
NASA TT3 -- which means a power goal of ~320whp without aero or ~305whp with aero

Well, NASA dyno classing.
You chose correctly since you want to restrict horsepower, but torque, turbo response and boost are unrestricted.

7163 and higher boost might have been even better for 320rwhp if you think you could keep that combination running long enough (higher exhaust manifold pressure/less reliability).

I think EFR 7163 super core in stock '89-91 RX-7 manifold and turbo housing would be great for max power under 5,250rpm while limiting power after 5,250rpm.

I don't agree with your inputs into matchbot for a rotary. Those flow numbers look low to me unless you are plotting for ~250rwhp there and a big pressure drop on the inlet and outlet of the turbo for the PRs.
Unfortunately, the FD is pretty much restricted to the TT# (dyno) classes. Ideally, I would like to run a TT letter class, but it's not really possible unless you have a near-stock FD, as the TTC+14 starting point is pretty restricting in terms of mods to stay in TTB. In theory, I could tune the powerband to make 320hp everywhere, so I could ramp the boost really aggressively at low RPM and make tons of torque like you're saying. The 7163 is a pretty attractive turbo in general, somebody needs to jump on that bandwagon and give it a try on an RX7. I do like the idea of using an S5 TII turbine housing -- unfortunately the volute shapes wouldn't be ideal for that turbine wheel. The 63 turbine is a mixed flow wheel, so the turbine housing is designed to introduce flow to the wheel with an axial component; which the S5 TII housing wouldn't do. Still, just because it's not ideal doesn't mean it wouldn't work.

I think the Matchbot inputs are pretty realistic. Take 7000rpm for example, that's 0.15 cubic meters per second of volume. NA with 100% VE and 70F IAT (1.18 kg/m^3) would be 0.18kg/s. 12psi with 100% (relative) VE and 70F IAT (2.16 kg/m^3) would be 0.33kg/s. The 70F IAT is unrealistic for a track day, I estimate something like 120F, and that bumps the mass flow at 100% VE, 12psi, 7000rpm to 0.30 kg/s. I'm not sure what the VE numbers actuality are for a stock-port REW, but I tuned them until the power curve looked realistic. I ended up somewhere around 93% at 7000rpm, so 0.28kg/s.
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Old 07-20-16, 01:30 PM
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I do like the idea of using an S5 TII turbine housing -- unfortunately the volute shapes wouldn't be ideal for that turbine wheel. The 63 turbine is a mixed flow wheel, so the turbine housing is designed to introduce flow to the wheel with an axial component; which the S5 TII housing wouldn't do. Still, just because it's not ideal doesn't mean it wouldn't work.

I don't know...

----------
Story time-

I accidentally got a 60-1 P trim S5 stock hybrid with mixed flow wheel when the stock exhaust housing was bored deep so one volute slot was entering the turbine wheel from behind and the other volute slot was entering the turbine wheel "correctly" in the tangental fashion.

That turbo spooled like a **** and would leave black marks just engaging the clutch from idle. 20psi boost by 3,000rpm with wastegates open since 5psi.

Yes, problem was I could not control the boost creep. Even after adding an external 60mm wastegate. Finally I had to almost double the manifold and housing exhaust runner volume up to the wastegate passages (heavily favoring wastegate flow) and double both volute slots width (Divergent AR now) to get boost under control.

That killed the response and the boost creep all in one swoop, now it behaved as a well set-up T4 60-1 P trim does on a rotary. Finally when I wanted to raise the boost to 18psi on race gas on that turbo I had to anti-lag the turbo into spooling in the upper rpms with AFRs burried richer than 10:1. Crazy rich for 2psi more boost netted me 5rwhp peak and around 30rwhp max under the curve.

I didn't feel anything like that turbo response (un-boost-creep-fixed) until I put the EFR 7670 on the car.
----------

Basically, if you skip the story time- I had a stock hybrid mixed flow turbo by accident. But I think it could be replicated with the EFR 7163 by boring the exhaust housing deeper when adapting the supercore to the stock exhaust housing.

Boost would probably have to be controlled with exhaust restriction.
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Old 07-20-16, 10:21 PM
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Turbo stuff - Part 2

So, with the turbo on hand, it was time to make a manifold. As you know, I originally had this turbo on my FC for a short time, so most of the "up-front" work on the manifold was for the FC. First I spent some time with the turbo hanging from an engine hoist in the engine bay to find the best position for the turbo. I wanted it to be mounted as low as possible, and as far rearward as possible. Once I found that spot, I bolted a blank T4 flange to the turbo (from ebay) and a blank flange to the engine (from Racing Beat). I measured the relative position between these flanges as best I could, and I re-created that positioning in CAD:



I connected the flanges using 1.5" schedule 10 stainless tubing.

Based on the model, I made a jig and put everything together:



At this point, I had planned on having someone else weld it -- but I got ambitious and decided that this was a good time to buy a TIG welder and teach myself how to weld. It ended up going pretty well, although if I had to do it over again I could do a better job, but the end result wasn't too bad:



So, that was for the FC, and it worked quite well on that car (DIY manifold tip: Run it on the car and get it hot to stress relieve it, then take it off and surface the flanges). When I started this project on the FD, I tried fitting this manifold as-is, but it didn't quite fit. The FD has a narrower engine bay than an FC because of the extra wheel well space needed for the UCA's; this caused my wastegate actuator to hit the side of the engine bay. After some (less-scientific) fumbling in the engine bay, I realized that I could likely modify my FC manifold to fit the FD. I ended up cutting the T4 flange off of the manifold, taking ~15 degree pie slice out of both runners, and welding a new T4 flange onto the manifold:



The result on the car:



I'm pretty happy with the positioning; it's really low, it's far back enough that I can fit a comp inlet pipe for an eventual CAI, there's enough clearance from the actuator to the engine bay, and it's still fairly easy to access the bolts.

Also made a downpipe (similar situation to the manifold, I had originally made this for the FC but modified it for the FD):



Making a downpipe is especially not-fun, I spent quite some time under the car holding up 3" tubing with my forehead while I marked where to make cuts... For the rest of the exhaust, I used an RX7 store resonated midpipe and a Racing Beat single exit muffler.

Picture of everything together:



Other random notes: I used -6 hardline to 3/8 hose for the water port connections (turned out really well). The oil inlet is -4an SS braided line with 90 degree hose ends (I wrapped it in a thermal sleeve to protect it from the turbine housing heat). The oil drain is just 3/4" aluminum tubing welded to a 2-bolt flange, one on the turbo and one on the engine, connected by hose elbow. I used a Pineapple racing "BT" idler pulley. And notice the small LIM heatshield.

The next update will get into some Megasquirt/electronics details.
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Old 07-26-16, 02:45 AM
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keep it up love the build
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Old 07-26-16, 08:33 PM
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ECU & Electronics

When it came time to choose an ECU, I initially gravitated toward Haltech, simply because of the amount of experience with that platform in the RX-7 world. My knowledge of Megasquirt at the time was from the MS1-era, and I saw it as a super-cheap system held together with Radioshack parts and bubble gum... However, around that time, Aaron Cake came out with his MS3 write-up. After doing some more MS3 research, I realized how capable of an ECU it is; sequential injection, direct fire ignition, auto-tune, even advanced features like launch and traction control. So, the choice was easy; why spend thousands of dollars on an ECU when a Megasquirt has all of the functionality at a fraction of the cost? So, I went with an MS3X. Still, it presented a few minor challenges on an FD:

- Electric OMP control: Not supported by Megasquirt currently. Choices were to either premix or build a separate controller for the OMP stepper motor. I ended up premixing, but not without an attempt at building a controller:



I used an Arduino to read an 0-5V input, read the 0-5V position signal from the OMP, and step the OMP position up or down until the OMP position matched the input (within a tolerance). The picture shows me testing it with a potentiometer as the input, and in this case it worked perfectly. My plan was to use one of the generic PWM outputs on the Megasquirt, and convert that to a 0-5V signal using a voltage divider and an RC circuit for the input to the Arduino. However, when I tested it on the Megasquirt, I had trouble getting a consistent analog signal out of my RC circuit... Anyway, after that I just decided to premix and never ended up investigating it deeper.

-Tach output: The FD get's its signal for the stock tach from the ECU. Luckily, this is easy with a Megasquirt. My instructions from another thread: "Find the yellow plugs for the stock ECU. On the smaller of these two yellow plugs, there is a yellow wire with a blue stripe. Cut this wire and connect it to the tacho out wire from the Megasquirt. Proper "Tacho output" settings in Tunerstudio are "Fixed" and "Normal" speed. Your tach should work now."

- Mounting: I wanted to mount the ECU in the stock location, so I made a bracket:







- Other notes I made in another thread:
VSS
Conveniently, the stock dash outputs a 0-5V digital signal to the stock ECU for VSS. This wire is on the large yellow stock ECU plug, and it's a green wire with a red stripe. I connected the "datalog in" wire from the Megasquirt to this wire. I read somewhere online that it was an 8202 pulse per mile output, but my speed was cut in half. I changed it to 4101 pulses per mile and it read spot on. I'll eventually use this for launch control and boost by gear.

Idle
The idle valve is similar to the FC BAC. 2-wire PWM, polarity doesn't matter. I have it set at 204hz in "Normal" valve mode, and it works perfectly.

Other notes
- IGN-1A coils are awesome, just make sure they're wired properly. FrontL-A, RearL-B, FrontT-C, RearT-D.
- I'm using the 36-1 FFE trigger wheel with hall sensor. It's been rock solid since the first crank. I think hall is worth the extra price over mag just for the peace of mind.
- I'm using an $18 150psi pressure transducer from ebay for fuel pressure, and it works great.
- The MS3X is mounted in the stock ECU location with a bracket I made. The stock plastic interior panel fits over it.
- I have a speed sensor on my EFR, reading the output of that with the Megasquirt (PT4 wire). # of teeth has to be set to 1.75 (14 blades on the compressor, and the speed sensor divides the input by 8).
- MSdroid is AWESOME! I have a Nexus 7 that I mounted where the stock radio goes. It displays everything you want, and it will log to an MSL just like a laptop will. I rooted the Nexus 7 with Cyanogenmod 10.1 USB ROM (has a hack that allows fast charging with an USB otg y cable). So when I turn the car on, the tablet turns on automatically and charges while displaying. Turn the car off, and it goes into deep sleep.

Overall, I don't see any reason to use a different ECU over the Megasquirt, unless you absolutely need OMP control. What I have is proving to be a really solid setup.
For coils, I wanted something powerful and reliable, so I chose the IGN-1A Mercury Marine coils (aka AEM smart coils without a cool sticker). I had already removed the A/C, so I was left with a nice hole under the PS pump and 4 M8 threaded holes, all in-plane. It made for a nice mounting location for the coils (again, with some more bracketry and some aluminum spacers I made on my lathe):







The plug wires aren't pictured, but I ended up ordering custom length wires from Sakebomb (I considered making my own from a "kit," but it's not really any more expensive to just have Sakebomb do the work).
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Old 07-26-16, 08:47 PM
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More electronics pictures:

FFE 36-1 trigger wheel


Hall sensor. I chose hall over VR just for piece of mind. I've always been paranoid about running a weak electrical signal through an engine bay, even if the wire is shielded. Hall doesn't even need a shielded wire as it just outputs a 0-5 or 0-12V square wave.


In the middle of wiring:


My MSDroid interface:
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Old 07-26-16, 09:36 PM
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Fuel system

I wanted new EV14-style fuel injectors rather than the old pintle-style fuel injectors. The EV14's have a much finer spray pattern and would allow me to get rid of the plastic diffusers in the intake. ID injectors are EV14's, but I've always felt like they're overpriced to pay for their polished website and "tech" articles that seem to have been written by a Gawker blogger... The EV14 injectors that I ended up going with were the FIC fuel injectors sold by IRPerformance. I went with 4x 1000cc injectors. I was expecting to get a datasheet with the injectors, but all I got was a label on the bag that said "1000cc/min @ 43.5 psi. Matched"... No dead time info or actual flow rates. Not a huge deal though, I made an educated guess at the dead time and trusted that the injectors were actually matched. If I bought injectors over again, I would probably just suck it up and by ID's so I could have a datasheet.

For fuel rails, I bought FFE primary and secondard rails. Worth every penny. I used an Aeromotive 13129 fuel pressure regulator, which works really well screwed onto the end of the secondary rail on the firewall side (I eventually swapped the mechanical fuel pressure gauge for a pressure transducer that I log to the Megasquirt. And yeah, at the time I didn't realize that the vacuum port I used was just a pass-through. After some confusion I switched it to an actual vacuum port).


I linked the rails with a 3/8 SS hardline:




The rest of the connections are just 5/16 hose (-6 ORB hose barbs off of the fuel rails). I did some quick hand calcs and saw no reason to use larger fuel line, so I kept it nice and simple. I added a Subaru pulsation damper just before the primary fuel rail for good measure. Fuel pump is a Supra TT.

That's all for now. The next update will get into details about the custom V-mount.
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Old 07-27-16, 03:25 PM
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i'm curious how the ms3 and efr7670 work out for you.

and yes, i did have boost control issues with my 8374 and the turblown shorty manifold, but my engine had a medium-large street port, and elliot posted a few times some not-so-scientific justification for the lack of boost control.

that was two FDs ago, (efr setup was on my red car), and on my last FD (white car) i had an ebay manifold/wastegate and a $650 borg warner s360, which worked *surprisingly well* for costing $1200 total including the downpipe. it was literally 1/3rd the price of my EFR setup, and it did very well on the track.

i'm officially "against" having a $2200 turbo on a mostly-track FD now, as the reality is you will most likely throw an apex tip through the turbine wheel at some point (obviously different situations and tuning will have different results -- and i never blew an engine in 7+ track days including 95*+ heat). that's undoubtedly a great turbo, but if i make another turbo setup for track-only (ish) i will go with another "budget" borg warner s series turbo and chinese manifold/wastegate.

i'm also interested in this project and your choice of turbo because boost response isn't crucial on the track like it is at a different type of driving (like autocross for example). i presume it will perform very well and be very responsive, and it should be a great all-around car.

i like what's going on here. post some more updates!
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Old 07-27-16, 03:49 PM
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Just a thought on your towing set-up, looks like too much weight on the front of the trailer unweighting the front of your truck.

We use a similar style towing vehicle - I can think of an instance going to a race meeting, downhill in the rain, with fronts locking and trying to modulate, rear end of another car getting larger and not much retardation happening...very vigilant on load position now!
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