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RIP! Terrible to see, that's one of the cleanest 1st gens I've ever seen. Guy had good taste. My condolences to you and his family. 44 is young, WTF happened?!
Not sure what happened. I know the White Mountains in the best and worst of conditions, but no speculation from me - I will leave it up to the authorities out of respect for Chris's family
Still so disheartened thinking about Chris, but am taking inspiration the more I learn about him in keeping the rotary spirit alive in his memory
I will be setting up a charitable drive in Chris Huyler's memory, with raised funds to be donated to various Search & Rescue outfits around the White Mountains
I will respectfully reach out to Chris's family and will work with our Moderators to keep everything clean
Kept tinkering with the pages while I was in Race Studio - this may be more addictive once I can adjust and upload and see the results in real time
This may be one of the check up pages with most of these set up for alarms or lights for warm up laps (e.g. red until hit "x" then shut off -> "good to go")
On track timing input page warm up
On track timing input page while in the dangah zone
Renna and I had a theory on how to bring the brake pressure sensor in as an analog input into the dash 37-pin harness - we'll see what Kevin has in mind
We all know what a good lap versus a bad lap feels like, but what does a good lap to a great lap look like?!
Parking this here for future reference and for anyone else looking to do lap and driver input analysis through an AiM dash in Race Studio
Was looking into what I'd imagine could be a simple math channel in AiM to convert MAP to PSI (PSI = MAP kPa x 0.14503773773020923)and tripped over this driver analysis math channel gold for throttle and brake on against speed and lap time and track map. I will admit, I would have forgone the brake pressure sensor had I caught this earlier as this logic gets a solid approximation for analysis (versus exact pressure)
James Colborn's approach here is using G-Force coming through the AiM GPS as an indicator for acceleration and braking (what I intend to also use with the TPS and Brake Pressure inputs)
Math Channel "GPS TPS On" formula:
- GPS longitudinal acceleration in G-forces is greater than 0.05 -> fast forward motion assumed to be propelled by an engine
- "GPS LonAcc:[g] GT 0.05 (GT = greater than)
Math channel "GPS Brake On" formula:
- GPS longitudinal acceleration in G-forces is less than 0.15 -> fast slowing motion at a rate that can only be induced by the brakes (hopefully!)
- "GPS LonAcc:[g] LT-0.15 (LT = less than)
Sample view of slower lap (blue lines) against faster lap (red lines) looking at throttle on, brake on, and where on the track you are (tracked out, botched apex, etc.)
Ive never been able to pull the data off my AIM Solo, and get it to a format that I can actually read and analyze. But it's there. I may need a tutorial at some point!
^There's a huge learning curve. My coach was able to download it off my solo and make use of it. I've since moved on to a full AIM EVO4 with additional sensors for brake pressure, tps, steering angle.
Thankfully, you don't really need to monitor engine data too much on a Miata I do have a separate gauge for water temp though
Ive never been able to pull the data off my AIM Solo, and get it to a format that I can actually read and analyze. But it's there. I may need a tutorial at some point!
It may be like the blind leading the blind for a little bit, but we'll get there
Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
^There's a huge learning curve. My coach was able to download it off my solo and make use of it. I've since moved on to a full AIM EVO4 with additional sensors for brake pressure, tps, steering angle.
Thankfully, you don't really need to monitor engine data too much on a Miata I do have a separate gauge for water temp though
Great reminder on the steering angle Alberto - did you go with a string or belt type?
I hear everything is more fun / easier in a spec miata : )
Great reminder on the steering angle Alberto - did you go with a string or belt type?
I hear everything is more fun / easier in a spec miata : )
String. It is mounted in the engine compartment between the rack and the frame rail.
I am in the process of switching over to a String for the TPS too. The little lever looking one didn't work very well.
The brake pressure sensor and TPS are far more helpful for analysis than steering angle though. Rarely use it.
SM is definitely easier! The 1.6 Miata is stupid easy to work on and drive. And relatively inexpensive comparatively.
Not super exciting for track days due to the lack of power but a total blast in wheel to wheel action with 40 of your closest friends.
Last edited by gracer7-rx7; Dec 4, 2024 at 12:06 PM.
Great point on the brake pressure and TPS being more helpful than steering angle (with the three data points together). Those two next to a track map lap line through the GPS will be more than a great starting point
I can imagine analysis paralysis in race studio chasing tenths initially, but trends and key pieces will easily come through in time
Going to keep it simple while I work through being a beginner all over again
From what I have seen in multi-class endurance racing, there are absolutely two races going on in any given lap:
a Spec Miata / Miata traffic nose to tail race and
everything else
The straight line drafting in a Miata train, and the picks and maneuvers / stickin' movin' using the fast traffic in play is great to see - makes me feel like I'm missing out on the fun a little bit
Found out the brake pressure sensor initially set up as an input to the Haltech couldn't be brought over as a channel into the AiM dash
Update to my wrong statement above - Kris talked some sense into me
Brake Pressure data channel can be brought over from Haltech to Elite through CAN protocol - just need to go in and set it up
I have been remotely in Race Studio (not picking up my dash through WiFi) and mistook initial set up - it is way (aaay!) more exhaustive than that short list
I will be the first tell tell you this thread is not the proper Haltech & AiM go to guidance, but wanted to clarify that for search function posterity
TCP Magic G-Face bumper and GT Type front diffuser came down off the rafter yesterday
This unfortunate bumper monstrosity (new license plate frame) is courtesy of the State of Massachusetts, and now takes away an easy "pull you over" excuse
I need to put some more effort into cleaning under the front diffuser going forward...
It is a pretty cool piece repurposed from a C7 ZR-1, and I do appreciate I can take the main bracket off easily with a pin
Supertones installed, wiring sorted, and tucked up out of the way of the intercooler / radiator (more extensive ducting on the to do list)
Total Car Produce Magic - just about lookin' like a total car again
Feelin' the magic
Last edited by ZumSpeedRX-7; Dec 5, 2024 at 06:54 PM.
A Howe Racing circle track-based lower ball joint roll center kit came in today to add to the suspension overhaul planned for the winter (hopefully brake overhaul around the 5000R 9660 / 9451 too)
Stock ride height bottom / Lowered ride height top
Solid mounted the fuse box and oil cooler line (undoing some zip tie bad habits of the past)
Ihor and Kris aligned the fenders, hood, headlight covers, and bumper all day yesterday
Reference picture for pre-detailing dirty dirty
Haven't seen another angle of the new front body alignment, but that passenger headlight cover can only get better from here
Down to the final pieces
Detail
Wash
Iron/clay decon
Single Stage Polish
Second Stage Polish
Panel Prep
Ceramic Coating (7-year)
AutoExe Strut Tower Bar
Up on the Lift Once Over
Compression Check
Street Drive
Load it up / bring it home
Last edited by ZumSpeedRX-7; Dec 7, 2024 at 07:11 PM.
Details on the roll center kit? Are you chopping up the stock arms to install this?
I'm curious why you bought two different configurations, unless you drive the car at stock height sometimes.
This isn't a direct press out old / push in new install, and I will need to grind some of the factory arm
The kit came with two length ball joints, and I will use the longer set
Lowered a little
I'm not brave enough to run my car that low.... Hahaha. I already have too much trouble getting my car out of the garage and onto a truck.
How much did these parts cost? There was some company selling something almost exactly the same for about $600.
I wonder if you couldn't do this for the upper arms, as well, as a means to rebuild them.
Good eye Tim! I love running and playing 5th Edition campaigns - do you play?
On that shelf note - can't stop tinkering with it
My kids bought me a McLaren F1 and Ferrari F40 sets for my birthday recently (kids buying dad toys - comedy isn't lost on me )
But can you find them in this mess?! Cars on cars - running out of space
I was cleaning the garage yesterday and found an NSX RC packaged with some other dad toys
Originally Posted by Valkyrie
I'm not brave enough to run my car that low.... Hahaha. I already have too much trouble getting my car out of the garage and onto a truck.
How much did these parts cost? There was some company selling something almost exactly the same for about $600.
I wonder if you couldn't do this for the upper arms, as well, as a means to rebuild them.
Ride height's not too bad (4.875" front and 5.375" rear) - it's the 3.3* front / 3.4* rear camber I need to get rid of to get some better tread underfoot
The cost was about that price point. You might be on to something with the upper control arms!
Some more garage clean up today, Christmas decorations with the kids, and got to get out and meet up with my brother and friends for some karting
It was fun - not gas powered outdoor slapstick karting we had with the Super GT Karting series Klay and I ran - but great company!
vs our old slapstick / super fast / super competitive karting
My man with the pedal pegged, lookin' to the turn like he's landing minor bump on his feet and taking the gold
Holy crap, how much oil does your diff hold?
Did that diffuser make much of a difference?
Wonder if I shouldn't find a used transmission under cover to smooth out airflow under the car...
I do have a separate gauge for water temp though
