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Track and autocross eBrake - chocked tires for a boiling hot system
Same as it ever was
I considered the Revolution AP Racing CP9202 kit with eBrake, but had a feeling spares and rebulld components down the road could be a pain. Relatively well priced versus unobtanium other options though
Still thinking something good will be coming out of our brain trust
Originally Posted by rotaryextreme
Hurry up and finish it or your going to redo everything due to getting older like me.. hahahahaha.
Old man me is well into redoing everything from the initial twin turbo track set up circa 2003 to 2016, to this full single turbo overhaul
And from here I will inevitably keep tinkering - old (bad) habits die hard, can't stop won't stop
Originally Posted by Federighi
...let us know how the Endless pads work out
After scouring temp to μ charts over the years, squinting and pondering charting and calculating, I will admit the ME20's are still very much a crap shoot. I really wanted the Ferodo DS1.11's but I got one axle set of pads from Endless "on the house" (no such thing as a free lunch), so I upped it from the street/track go between carbon ceramic CC-RG's to ME20.
Obviously set up, tires, aero, suspension, track layout all the variables all the time is key to pad selection, but there is a lot more on experience and personal preference and driving style in pad selection as well
Caveat, take my eventual feedback on the ME20's with a grain of salt
I do appreciate the extra data Dixcel gives on pad selection considerations though
Originally Posted by Federighi
Brembo GT-R 6-piston comes in at 5 lb 13.2 oz.
I initially scoped out a StopTech Trophy kit STR40 front 332x32 with ST22 328x28 rear sans eBrake with SR34 pads with Erik and Jeremy of APP back in 2018
Never considered a kit from Brembo, and couldn't find anything technical (weight, piston sizing) on the GT-R after you brought it to my attention, but it does look like it made the rounds here and fell off as a viable option for the FD?
Originally Posted by Federighi
What's the weight on the rear caliper?
Brought everything up to grab weights using my sport climbing quickdraw as a hanger tared out on my hiking pack scale. Eyeballing spit and grit approximation, but landed 0.4% off of what Endless advertises so in the ball park
AP Racing 9660 - 6.0lb
AP J Hooks with SBG Hats - 18.31lb
Endless Racing Mono4R - 5.0lb
Endless ESlit - 13.7lb
Bear with me on what is a non-issue BBK acquisition for most (not reinventing the brake system here), but some comparison pictures
AP Racing J-Hooks versus Endless 2-piece ESlit with tufram hat
'
5000R 9660 vs Racing Mono4R calipers - the Tufram finishes match well enough
Playing catch up from the past ten months of updates with some good progress over the last few weeks
Will try to stay up on them one off for my own sanity versus all in bulk
Spring and Summer with kids sports and all their activities during the nice weather has kept me mostly out of the garage (well, from being maximum productive on the FD anyways)
Dad life always distracted - wouldn't change it for the world
Daydreams of the last laps in the rain keep me motivated, but what can I say - her name's Mia, also spelt M.I.A. (hopefully back in action soon)
Having some fun adventures
Anniversary Mount Greylock hike loop with my better three-quarters, staying at the Bascom Lodge overnight
Testing my camouflage out at the art museum before we head back to the kiddos - accidentally pretty alright
Went back to MV, but this year we made it for the 50th anniversary weekend of my favorite movie - island was hopping with shenanigans
Have been spending a lot time hiking up in the White Mountains, chipping away at the 48 4000-footers - view at my home office keeps me motivated on my to do list
Started the suspension overhaul with the KTS front upper control arms - and a mess with some new tools
Took some starting point measurements with the TEIN super streets and OEM UCA to approximate the setup
Got creative on the ball joint press out
Remove the parts to be replaced based on the maintenance manual issued by each automobile manufacturer. Install the product in the reverse procedure from which it was removed. The ABS sensor is fixed with a tie-wrap.
Adjust the pillow end on the body side so that it is straight with reference to the figure below.
Adjustment width 175 mm~ 195 mm
Minimum number of bites 20 mm
After installation, be sure to turn the steering left and right to the maximum. Check if the upper arm is interfering with the wheel. If there is interference, adjust it using wheel offsets or spacers. After installation, be sure to take a test drive, and if there are no problems, measure and adjust the alignment. Please note that driving without alignment measurement or adjustment may cause tire wear and abnormalities in steering characteristics. This product has the same role as the genuine parts, but the structure is different from the genuine parts, so it cannot be used maintenance-free. Be sure to regularly check the tightening and other inspections.
Measured up to get approximate OEM length with offset arms to maintain caster IF same length thread front side and back side
Looked to need about 3/4" to keep it the same length
Have some finishing work to do to fasten up the brake land coilover reservoir lines
Going to be loosening this back up for some other pieces
Notes to self on UCA adjustment
If both lengths are the same for threads, caster is OEM
Move one Heim joint in
Move one out to adjust caster
Tighten rear bolt first, don't torque
impact wrench front bolt, watch for deflection inward or outward at Heim joint
If deflects inward toward rear bolt, reduce distance between heim joints
if deflects outward, increase the distance
Get to stable condition front bolt rear bolt between brackets, shouldn't have too much resistance on arm
Torque to 70 ft/lbs
w/ loctite 242 to -20% to 56 fl/lbs
I have been chipping away at the front reservoir mounts for a few months now, thinking I would mount them on the intercooler brackets
Had a grand design that never came to fruition
Another one I should have known wouldn't work right away
Well silver lining on my miscalculation, I'll still have some top carbon fiber intercooler panels
Titanium fasteners in to drill for and mount soon
Test fit the reservoirs around the engine bay to see where they'd fit - surprisingly trickier than I thought
Tried them behind the headlights, and stepped to the interior to pop the lights and see how much room I had...
...miscalculated completely and heard a snap and crunch as I cracked my beautifully paint matched and finally aligned cover
Disappointing but sh*t happens - removed it and kept going
Ordered a brand new cover
...but chickened out and returned it when I realized how much of a pain in the a*s paint matching is going to be again
Ordered a set of carbon fiber headlight covers and shrouds, because... well I love carbon fiber. And I will one day undo all of my boy racer raw carbon fiber tendencies with a full Brilliant Black respray
Last edited by ZumSpeedRX-7; Nov 30, 2025 at 10:23 AM.
OEM R1 - never got around to trying it on the new setup
AutoExe multipoint - no
Garage Alpha Ti Mazdaspeed Style - no
Enter the Garage Alpha Type-B front tower bar
Special titanium delivery from Garage Alpha came in earlier in the week
Was thinking I would want to remove the bluing on the titanium with something like Autosol (thanks for the idea Jake!), but the burnt effect kind of grew on me in person... We'll see
Originally Posted by Garage Alpha
Type-B as it's being called is a "Motor Swap Style" strut bar. This version has increased clearance for LS, 3Rotor & 2JZ swaps along with a master cylinder brace. It weighs in a bit over 2 pounds and available in burnt or matte finish.
Sounds about right for my clearance issues
Was looking for a pick me up win, so popped out to the garage to hopefully wrap up this strut tower bar up once and for all with the extra clearance
Driver side strut tower bar fire suppression nozzle is in the way - but easy enough to move the bracket
Keep it moving
Tried flipping the bar (RX-7 would be upside down but could re-tack it), as the bar bends are offset and I will take any opportunity at clearance I can get
Added some washers for an eventual shim while I was at it
Slept on it all and came up with a crackpot idea of just redoing the titanium bracketry
Have been calling some local fabricators to see what they can do with 4mm titanium (if they'd even touch it... not as easy to find so far)
Had some fun in excel, as I do, for this kind of design work
Thinking the brackets would have to move forward approximately half an inch and the bar would have to drop 1/2-3/4"
My Wife says kill your darling and return it
I think the juice is worth the squeeze...
More of a rocking chair update, something to do versus forward motion but it's something
Why not just take a 1/4" of your motor mounts? If you have the IRP ones they are easy to trim and that little amount won't mess up your driveline. Your motor might actually be sitting higher than normal already depending on your oil pan situation.
