When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My next trip down to NJ should be in April once the snow, salt and sand clears for some break in miles
Hoarding continues
Peter and I have been going back and forth on a well balanced brake setup, swapping calculations, and finally landed on something good
Fronts are here and the matching / balanced rears are in the works (thanks Heath, Peter, and Rich).
Maou? Overkill? Sure - brake failure is not an option. With my next battle version being lighter and much more powerful than what I have been running for the past two decades, I am erring on the side of overdoing it
Took the JRZ's out to grab some measurements for Hahn on something he has in the works.
My numbers were off but I got the full stroke numbers from the Netherlands and the Drawings as Built from Tim Olsen
Last edited by ZumSpeedRX-7; Dec 23, 2022 at 11:43 AM.
My friend Klay asked me back in November if I wanted to play hooky on a Monday and join him at Palmer Motorsports Park for a private event
Oh, and he offered to let me drive his 991.2 GT3 RS Weissach
How do you say no to that?!
The car is so well balanced on power, braking, and handling - perfection!
Took a ride in a 1 of 200 GT2 RS Club Sport with an amateur Porsche Cup racer. Funny how safe you feel going well into the 150's when your strapped in and low slung between a full roll cage
Awesome pics and updates. Thanks for all the detailed photos on your build !!!
Thanks Ben - back at you with your build
Originally Posted by Smokey The Talon
Are you able to share any more details on the AP brake setup front and rear?
Absolutely
The front is an AP 9660 6-piston with 27.0mm x2 / 31.8 x2 / 38.1mm x2 pistons (RH -2S4L & LH -3S4L) at a decent for a six piston 6.1lbs (compare to an Endless Mono 6 at 6.5lbs). Check out the electroless nickel plating if you're considering a set - they look pretty good!
Pad thickness on the CP3905D54 size is a thick 18.0mm, with good options from Ferodo (leaning towards DS2500), Hawk (a few different DTC options), Endless (leaning towards CC-Rg), Pagid (leaning RSC3), or PFC (leaning PFC11)
The front AP J hook rotors are 355mmx32mm CP7177-211GC at 16.1lbs
The matching AP Pro 5000R 4-piston rear kit is still under wraps for viability and finalized details. The ideal for front to rear balance is a 9451 with a 25.4mm x2 and 28.6mm x2 4-piston caliper with a 340mm rotor
I am holding an Endless Racing 4 with 27mm x2 and 32mm x2 pistons with a 332mm rotor as a less ideal on balance (comparable to a 9450) back pocket rear kit if the matching AP doesn't get off the ground. I will at least match the finish to the AP's but will regret that spares take 3 months to come in from Japan, but at least the full caliper won't have to come off for swapping pads
These little binkers have served me well
but I don't think these will hurt (photo SBG)
Last edited by ZumSpeedRX-7; Dec 30, 2022 at 03:11 PM.
Last day off, and my wife and daughter are out with the mouse on ice while the little man and I do some errands around the house. A few follow ups
Series 8 transmission - what to do with you?!
I regretfully sold this 2001 transmission and the RE Amemiya shifter to a good home on the west coast
Shifted like butter, but sadly made it's way out the door
Visual for future me on where I want to be - the car goes where your eyes go
Originally Posted by Eric / GM
C's vs RE Amemiya
Personal better understanding of springs in a few applications
Nothing crazy here, just some back and forth with Shawn and Turbosmart Australia on trying to understand the contents of their new TS-0620-4012
I opened the box and the contents differed from the listing, so I was wondering what exactly I had... Running the wrong spring could have had catastrophic consequences
The red outer 14psi is fitted in the actuator, while the pink middle 7psi, and inner grey 5psi and black 3psi are included in the box
Swapped the red 14 for a pink middle and black inner - 10psi total to start to hold a modest low setting to start adjusting the boost trim against
Made my own chart for reference, not that I will be seeing many of these iterations
Originally Posted by on an ignorant ghost of me past
I wanted 14 /12 Hypercos but the set was shipped with standard 11.6 / 8.9 Eibachs, but I received front and rear quick disconnects instead...
I am going to try these springs and see how it feels before possibly bumping it up to 14 / 12 or 14 / 14
I was considering another set of springs while having many other pokers in the fire, and was talking with Heath on a set of Swifts (Eibach, Hypercos, Swift - everyone has their personal preference, and my experience is limited to Eibach and Tein).
We were talking about getting a better understanding of what I had to see where I should go first. Took the set back out over the holiday break to take stock
The spring rates out of the box are more in line with what I had in mind - I should have known Tim Olsen and the crew at JRZ in the Netherlands knew better than that
My mistake was in mistaking my tender springs for helper springs
Helper Spring The Helper Spring is designed to keep the main spring seated when the suspension is completely unloaded. The installation of a Helper Spring has no effect on the suspension characteristics of the vehicle Tender Spring Tender Springs are used in conjuction with a main coilover spring when a softer initial rate is desired. Unline Helper Springs, Tenders have rate which will affect the handling characteristics of a car.
And good old math with the tender's relative spring rate being: (Tender Spring Rate x Main Spring Rate) / (Tender Spring Rate + Main Spring Rate)
means my 150lb TENDER springs add an EXTRA 115.4lbs | 2.1Kg rear and 121.9lbs | 2.2Kg front
to the 500lbs | 8.9Kg rear and 600lbs | 11.6Kg front main springs
All that together, I have combined spring rates of Front 771.9 lbs/inch | 13.8 Kg/mm Rear 615.4 lbs/inch | 11.0 Kg/mm
and stroke at Front 127mm Rear 132mm
Not a bad place to start while throwing in stiffer front aero, stickier offset 295/265 tires, and wherever we land on a conservative for the long run power track setting...
...you know, cause it's always easier trying to balance many changing variables at once
This, however...
Originally Posted by Colin Chapman
Make the suspension adjustable and they will adjust it wrong -- look what they can do to a Weber carburetor in just a few moments of stupidity with a screwdriver."
will need some homework / research, and time on the scales to ensure I don't have many hours of stupidity lost with a spanner wrench
Engine should be getting accessorised and dropped in over the next few weeks
Rear stroke looks nice and big. Do you know how that compare to stock or other setups?
Honestly not sure of stock or comparable lengths / stroke
For the first time in my life, the internet has let me down on finding an answer to your reasonable question, so I went old school and hit the books to see if I could find stock numbers
Unfortunately I couldn't find the numbers on first take but will report back if I find something
Books - remember these?! These were worth dusting off and taking down
Originally Posted by Long, Brian. RX-7: Mazda's rotary engine sports car. Veloce Publishing, 2004, Updated & Enlarged New Edition!
Originally Posted by Yamaguchi, Jack K. and Dinkel, John. The Mazda RX-7: Mazda's Legendary Sports Car. RING Ltd., 1992, First Edition
Originally Posted by gmonsen
Interesting pair of new driving shoes...
I assume you're talking about my Shorty's motorsports?!
That with the kid's laugh, ben & jerrys, rock climbing, and my Virginia pen pal are the only things keeping me sane with my empty garage
Thumbing through the books for my latest assignment - recognize anyone or anything here?! Cheers Gordon!
Originally Posted by Ancas, Mike. Mazda RX-7 Performance Handbook. MBI Publishing Company, 2000
FOLLOWUP
A KYB "stock" replacement strut has 5.5in / 139.7mm stroke length in the rear and 5.2in / 132.1mm stroke length in the front
My set of RS Pro 3's as built have (0.3in) / (7.7mm) / (5.5%) less stroke length in the rear and (0.2in) / (5.1mm) / (3.9%) less stroke length in the front
Last edited by ZumSpeedRX-7; Jan 2, 2023 at 08:47 PM.
Reason: comparable measurements
The shifter and trans will get put to good use, sir.
Absolutely Nader - making that funk the P-funk, gettin' your FD series 8 funked up
Please keep me posted on the FD and memoriam FC build - best of luck
Relatively on topic of the S8 transmission with my initial build goal for it when I bought it from Lucky7, and to get these pictures off my phone and in an easier to digest view
Gear ratios, bench racing, and math
Mike, Carlos, Peter and I were discussing gears and transmission swaps and the OS Giken gear set came up
Having gone with the 4.777 ring and pinion, it seems I may have missed my mark slightly on these gear ratios for my home track with estimated 145 top speed, and no interest in fully running out the gears albeit with machined "insurance" inside for higher shift points...
Mike liked the 4.100 and OS Giken for his setup and track
I will rerun with Liberty for posterity - if I stopped being a noob, I am sure this math has already been done elsewhere on the forum, but I'll keep the calculator constant for consistency
OS Giken Gear Set - good looking piece of kit with the strengthened main shaft, retains OEM 4th gear
I ran the OS box back in 2012 briefly before totaling my old VR R1 on NJMP...... sold the trans to a forum member and regretted it ever since. So I took the plunge again and had 'my trans guy' do the build a second time before he retires. It's been sitting in the corner of the garage, maybe reviewing your chart with speeds at 8000 rpm in each gear will motivate me to do it before DGRR
356 brake duct cooling panels from Longlife Stockport
I won't need these with how efficient the AP J-hook is designed for cooling and how slow of a driver I will be, but a proper addition with the provisions in place from the onset
As an FYI to others as covered elsewhere on this forum, improper cooling can actually have adverse affects on rotor longevity - see article here
Ducting design beta and some help from the crew at Verus Engineering once the time comes
Well, August 2021 came and went on my project - the initial timeline I was given on my build before I dropped it off
April 2022 as promised October of 2021 came and went
April 2023 with my car "being on the lift until finished" as promised in November of 2022 came and went
Long story short, with a lot of frustration and anger, like many others in our small community, I had been continually lied to by Paul well before I dropped my car off. Eventually, the only way I was able to get answers was driving from Massachusetts to New Jersey where you can't ignore a phone call or email, and then he'd lie to my face or give me some some bullsh*t excuse.
Materiality isn't important here - lies are lies, and bullsh*t shouldn't pass at any level
A few friends close to the issue say I have been far too patient. That said, with me into this chapter a significant amount in parts and labor (not including the depreciating chassis) with almost every piece of project management out of my control - take some of the general frustration and anger and amplify it a little bit
I headed down to the shop this past Monday to go over the build with Ihor, and have been assured the bullsh*t will stop with Paul having been fired (good fu*king riddance) with legal action underway
I have been assured my car will be coming back perfect and as I envisioned it
I trust Ihor to deliver.
Okay, onto where this build is at
Last edited by ZumSpeedRX-7; Jul 28, 2023 at 06:30 AM.