Twins are great for road racing, but have heat issues. Have you pinpointed your exhaust leak? You may only need a gasket.

Looks like there's a 99 FS across the state

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ition-1096210/

 

Did you have any issues with fuel slosh while tracking the car?

 

I never have, but I have a late model '94 that supposedly has somewhat better baffling

 

I picked up those exact twins and conveniently met today in Orlando. Saved me a several hours of driving. It seemed like it was meant to be.


What they look like

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


Thank you. I am still on my path of clean and simple


You're right. But I am still going for a stock looking engine bay along with the exterior of the car.

I picked up an HKS Downpipe and the twins which seem to be either rebuilt nicely with decently clean and new hardware or its really just that they are extremely low miles.

Either way I'm happy for the secondary turbo fix I'm currently going under way. The 93 turbos are on their way out with just a coolant line and two oil lines in the way of removing the setup.


Heres what the Y-pipe looks like inside.

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

we suspect the secondary is blowing a good amount of oil.

 

Looking good

Get the wastegate ported before you install those puppies

 

+1 DEFINITELY port the wastegate while you have the turbos out and ready to go. Especially if you plan on putting in a mid pipe.

Matt

 

Thanks for the reminder. Totally forgot

 

Boost'n normal with the 99 twins?

 

Something is up with the secondary sequential system. When the sequential system is deselected on the PFC and I do a poor mans sequential, it boosts 12 to redline. Once I select the sequential system on the PFC and have the sequential where it needs to be, it red lines waste gate pressure.

 

Between the exhaust ports was cracked

Open Down pipe start up



Still didn't fix the lower boost on the secondary. The 99s pull a lot harder because they are slightly larger then the 93 usdm models. And they are more efficient. Reason is still being determined why the sequential system on the secondary is running lower boost. Boost on the primary hits hard at 12lbs. Im working on the secondary to match that same psi level to redline.


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


I soften the dampening on the Ohlin coilovers to help out with my oversteering issue where my tail end likes to slide a lot. This helped out a lot during autocross this weekend.
I am thinking of unhooking my rear sway bar in the future for the next event.


Results

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


Live Results - Generated:Sun 04-03-2016 15:17:43






DSC08551 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



DSC08567 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr




DSC08579 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



DSC08624 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

DSC08647 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



DSC08731 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



DSC08787 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr




DSC08804 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



DSC08934 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of the secondary boost issue.
Pop some true white leds in your front signal running lights. It will match your super white headlight better. Cheap satisfaction.

 

So I'm in the Mazda spring edition magazine

Zoom-Zoom, USA, Spring


Changed this bugger out today to see if it would help the secondary. No avail. I'm crossing my fingers for the TCA to be the culprit. I'm also replacing the two lines going to the actuator. If that doesn't work, I'm at a lost and give up.

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr




this was the vacuum job done last year... just taking pictures of it




Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



New Turbo Solenoid


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr





I wasn't sure If I should replace the check valve....


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

Is your pressure tank holding? I'd replace all the check valves with new OEM or Dale Clark's viton units(does he have them still?).

 

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


THAT ONE ISNT A CHECK VALVE. That little black guy is a filter for the MAP sensor. Leave that guy alone :P.

Matt

 

Lol don't touch, don't remove, don't look.

I have all check valves replaced with dales valves.

 

Narfle, he has an issue after the 2ndary turbo solenoids either the line, line route, or actuator itself. We did a simple sequential delete with wire and boosts fine to redline with sequential mode off in pfc. Once enabled(with the lines capped and still seqnential deleted with wire) it continues to have boost issue when the 2ndary kicks in even though mechanically identical to non-sequential.

 

No kidding, that's not a check valve. If you replace it with one you could blow your engine.


As for the secondary turbo issues, you need to troubleshoot everything. Not hard, but due to the complexity of the twin control system, it takes time. I recommend checking that all the components themselves work (solenoids and actuators) even if they are brand new. If they work, do they work on the car? The components themselves may be fine, but you could have a problem with your vacuum system or electrical system that are sending signals to the components. Pages F21-F26 from the '93 Service Highlights manual details the turbo control system. You need to go over everything in there.


Good luck!

 

Replaced the hood latch release cable because it broke on the molded plastic part that creates tension. I can now see that Mazda revised the part by adding a little bit of metal overlay.

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


I also had to replace the throttle cable because the older one was looking pretty shabby.


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

Not sure why Pettit capped off the intake manifold/throttle body location nipple that connects to the oil neck port. Should I reconnect that with a vacuum line? .

Trying to reverse everything Pettit did to the car

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Does this look normal and or okay?



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

That looks like that's the PCV line capped off. It should be connected to the front of the UIM just behind the TB. This is okay. Later model FDs did not have it. See http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/pcv.htm. You may also want to install an oil catch can. I collect a good pint after every run

Good call. Revert it back to stock (or at least understand what is not stock), then make the changes you want to make. You can chase a lot of gremlins on a modded car

Are you talking about the blue unhooked connector? That looks like the EGR connecter and is "ok" if you don't want the EGR

 

I think I'm going nuts over this car. The TCA was replaced with a working and lines to it as well but that isn't the problem. I'm going to get into the vacuum lines and solenoids now.

 

hi, maybe dumb question, wondering what is shown in the photo, the thing in the center of the excerpted portion below. is that a vacuum port with no line on it?

 

that port is for the pcv system that connects from the oil neck filler to another port on the side of the upper manifold just underneath and to the left side of the throttle body

In that same picture you cropped you can see a bolt inside a vacuum hose. It connects there. I'm fixing that today

 

This should be your next mod

https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-ce...er-gb-1097112/

 

I've had a s2000 antenna on my black Miata and I lost a lot of radio signal. "You listen to the radio!!!" Well sometimes I do. I use Spotify for steaming music but I truly want to go back to the stock radio so I need to keep the antenna.

They do look sharp and streamline the car nicely.




I'll be going to DGRR any one else going that I can meet?