So I'm starting a brand new thread. My name is Richard and I've owned my FD since 2004 and have only driven it for 5 weeks after I got it! I'm an automotive technician, ASE certified L1 Master Tech.

So when the car bit the bullet (so I thought), I was just starting out in Tech school, and didn't know anything! So I pulled the motor and had it sitting on a pallet for a couple years before I decided it was time to get the new motor coming. A little while after pulling the motor I was selling parts to fund my build, was in the process of selling the cat when I decided to inspect it...... it was clogged!

Well it was too late to turn back. So here's my parts list:

CURRENTLY HAVE:
Pineapple Racing 13B-REW, large streetport, oil mods, 3mm apex seals, and Pineapple Oil pan
Aspec 500r turbo kit
Xcessive LIM
HKS V-mount intercooler kit
HKS GD Pro twin plate clutch kit
Koyo radiator
GReddy pulley kit
FEED solid motor mounts
FEED oil pressure banjo bolt/tap
Sard Thermostat
RE Amemiya short shifter
Sard breather tank
Sard thermostat
Sard fuel rail kit
Sard 800cc primary injectors
RC 1600cc secondary injectors
HKS chrono DB meters
R Magic spark plug wires
HKS HiPower exhaust
HKS spark plugs
Stainless oil pump lines (GARBAGE!!!)

STILL NEED TO ORDER:
Apexi PowerFC
GM 3 Bar MAP
HKS EVC VI
HKS Twin Power
HKS Bypass Valve
Resonated midpipe

QUESTION! Has anyone else had a problem with their stainless OMP lines? Mine are clocked wrong and are 90* off. So by the time I fight them and twist them into position the line is all kinked, and will eventually be stressed to the point of failure.

Onto some pictures:

 

 

And here is where I got today. Mocked up the fuel system, OMP lines, and turbo oil/coolant lines. The oil drain supplied with the kit isn't going to work one bit, so I'll need to get a new one made. The OMP lines are clocked 90* off and I will try to sort that out with the company I bought them from.

More pictures:

 

your build is lookin good! i had some issues laying my OMP lines as well when I had to replace mine. i ended up removing the water pump housing to get the lines far enough away from the main pulley. when i did it, i connected the lines to the engine block, routed them underneath the water pump housing and then connected the lines to the OMP. twisting the lines a little bit helped in getting them lined up with the OMP. maybe i was just lucky...

it should be much easier for you since your engine is out.

 

WOW!!!

 

Unfortunately I'm not having a problem routing them, I have them all routed, its just when I go to connect the ends, the banjo fittings are at a 90* angle from mating surface. It takes a LOT of force to get them to line up, but I have done it and bolted them down. This puts a lot of tension on the lines, which is not how it should be.

 

Go big or go home dam dude nice build

 

Do you have any firsthand experience with the two parts listed below?

FEED solid motor mounts
FEED oil pressure banjo bolt/tap

Also, what is the temp rating for the SARD t-stat?

 

Those solid aluminum motor mounts probably won't be very streetable...

 

nice build there man. I really like those SARD rails. Very clean. It's gonna look and perform amazing when you're finished.

 

I haven't yet used the FEED mounts or banjo bolt/tap, but I have them right here in front of me and they're nice pieces. Both are very spendy and more of a "baller status" items purchase. My daily driver is an Nissan 240SX S13 and it has solid mounts and 10K/8K HKS coilovers on it, so I know what the mounts will feel like, and can handle the harshness.


The Sard T-stat is rated at 75*C.

 

My daily driver is an Nissan 240SX S13 and it has solid mounts and 10K/8K HKS coilovers on it, so I know what the mounts will feel like, and can handle the harshness. My Nissan has been like this for 3 years now and the harshness doesn't get to me.

 

very nice selection of components. it is always nice to see another rotary build.

while there are always different ways of getting it done i have a few suggestions for you to consider.

as you know, the external oil pump was added to the FD to to add lube to the apex seals/grooves. the better solution would be to premix but Mazda figured correctly that people would consider it a hassle and forget.

the primary problem w running an EOP is that it pumps carbon filled non 2 cycle oil onto your apex seals which need to have a gap to the correct thousandth of an inch. non 2 cycle oil leaves residue and as mentioned it is filled w carbon.

drain your oil after changing it and driving 300 miles. you will be shocked at how much carbon is in it. bottom line here is junk the EOP and add 1/2 oz of 2 cycle oil for street and 1 oz per gallon for track/dyno.

you make no mention of AI. you have a 73 pound per minute turbo that will make well over 500 rwhp. simple outcome: AI (or racegas/E85) or blow your motor.

we look forward to your continuing updates and wish you good luck,

howard

 

Howard

Thanks for the suggestions. I've been battling with my mind whether to go with premixing. Due to the lines not lining up I've been really considering going with premixing, not just cause of the lines, but because of the benefits that I've read about.

I probably will end up going with some sort of AI, but I'm going to run about 1 bar of boost until I do put a system on.

 

The problem with solid motor mounts is not the actual vibration; it doesn't take long to get used to that. The problem is that the FD interior will rattle even worse, which is annoying when you're driving by yourself and embarrassing when you have a passenger who doesn't know much about 15 year old sports cars.

biggest worry would be the OMP failing and you not knowing about it. The whole carbon issue does exist but IMO you aren't going to have noticeable effects for a long time. And you probably aren't going to be putting 12 or 15k a year on this car once you get through the initial excitement of getting the engine running right.

IMO if you have a safety margin in your tune you'll be fine at that boost level without AI, although I wouldn't increase boost beyond that without AI or race fuel. There's a reason why stock cars aren't tuned on the bleeding edge of blowing up.

 

here's your compressor map... one bar can be as much as 60 pounds per minute of air.
868 CFM/1.92 is 452 rotary rwhp. that's 520 flywheel hp/160 cu inches is 3.25 hp per cu inch.

if you plan to run one bar w no AI there are a number of excellent engine builders available. i suggest you start checking them out.

hc

 

Just purchased this from Banzai.

 

Nice build!

What kind of Intercooler setup?

 

I love howard's subtelty...lol

 

great move on the EOP blockoff

hc

 

I wouldn't care if he spoke Vulcan. I can't remember a sole on here ever disproving him, and from his experience, I feel obligated to listen when he speaks. He doesn't blow smoke, and that makes it that much easier to consider his advice.


Nice build BTW. I like the component choices you made, and +1 on the OMP removal.

 

No, it's just that "some people" on here don't care to get into an argument with the "all mighty(s) that can do no wrong"...... Being old, stating things as "fact" and having a high post count doesn't make someone "always right".
Sheeesh.....

-J

 

Nice work...givin Rich (the official "baller" status FD) a run for his money

+1 on Howard's suggestion to pre-mix, I'm running Amsoil Interceptor 2 stroke and have been for years

Also good choice on the HKS iridium plugs (rebadged Denso's), I love mine....just don't try to gap them!

 

NVM it says HKS v-mount i was to busy looking at all the pics.LoL

 

Yeah, I haven't taken any pics of it yet, because its all still in the box, I've opened it and peaked at everything. I'll try and get pics up of it soon. Its a massive core!