Reactor's 500R Build Thread
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Reactor's 500R Build Thread
So I'm starting a brand new thread. My name is Richard and I've owned my FD since 2004 and have only driven it for 5 weeks after I got it! I'm an automotive technician, ASE certified L1 Master Tech.
So when the car bit the bullet (so I thought), I was just starting out in Tech school, and didn't know anything! So I pulled the motor and had it sitting on a pallet for a couple years before I decided it was time to get the new motor coming. A little while after pulling the motor I was selling parts to fund my build, was in the process of selling the cat when I decided to inspect it...... it was clogged!
Well it was too late to turn back. So here's my parts list:
CURRENTLY HAVE:
Pineapple Racing 13B-REW, large streetport, oil mods, 3mm apex seals, and Pineapple Oil pan
Aspec 500r turbo kit
Xcessive LIM
HKS V-mount intercooler kit
HKS GD Pro twin plate clutch kit
Koyo radiator
GReddy pulley kit
FEED solid motor mounts
FEED oil pressure banjo bolt/tap
Sard Thermostat
RE Amemiya short shifter
Sard breather tank
Sard thermostat
Sard fuel rail kit
Sard 800cc primary injectors
RC 1600cc secondary injectors
HKS chrono DB meters
R Magic spark plug wires
HKS HiPower exhaust
HKS spark plugs
Stainless oil pump lines (GARBAGE!!!)
STILL NEED TO ORDER:
Apexi PowerFC
GM 3 Bar MAP
HKS EVC VI
HKS Twin Power
HKS Bypass Valve
Resonated midpipe
QUESTION! Has anyone else had a problem with their stainless OMP lines? Mine are clocked wrong and are 90* off. So by the time I fight them and twist them into position the line is all kinked, and will eventually be stressed to the point of failure.
Onto some pictures:
So when the car bit the bullet (so I thought), I was just starting out in Tech school, and didn't know anything! So I pulled the motor and had it sitting on a pallet for a couple years before I decided it was time to get the new motor coming. A little while after pulling the motor I was selling parts to fund my build, was in the process of selling the cat when I decided to inspect it...... it was clogged!
Well it was too late to turn back. So here's my parts list:
CURRENTLY HAVE:
Pineapple Racing 13B-REW, large streetport, oil mods, 3mm apex seals, and Pineapple Oil pan
Aspec 500r turbo kit
Xcessive LIM
HKS V-mount intercooler kit
HKS GD Pro twin plate clutch kit
Koyo radiator
GReddy pulley kit
FEED solid motor mounts
FEED oil pressure banjo bolt/tap
Sard Thermostat
RE Amemiya short shifter
Sard breather tank
Sard thermostat
Sard fuel rail kit
Sard 800cc primary injectors
RC 1600cc secondary injectors
HKS chrono DB meters
R Magic spark plug wires
HKS HiPower exhaust
HKS spark plugs
Stainless oil pump lines (GARBAGE!!!)
STILL NEED TO ORDER:
Apexi PowerFC
GM 3 Bar MAP
HKS EVC VI
HKS Twin Power
HKS Bypass Valve
Resonated midpipe
QUESTION! Has anyone else had a problem with their stainless OMP lines? Mine are clocked wrong and are 90* off. So by the time I fight them and twist them into position the line is all kinked, and will eventually be stressed to the point of failure.
Onto some pictures:
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And here is where I got today. Mocked up the fuel system, OMP lines, and turbo oil/coolant lines. The oil drain supplied with the kit isn't going to work one bit, so I'll need to get a new one made. The OMP lines are clocked 90* off and I will try to sort that out with the company I bought them from.
More pictures:
More pictures:
#4
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your build is lookin good! i had some issues laying my OMP lines as well when I had to replace mine. i ended up removing the water pump housing to get the lines far enough away from the main pulley. when i did it, i connected the lines to the engine block, routed them underneath the water pump housing and then connected the lines to the OMP. twisting the lines a little bit helped in getting them lined up with the OMP. maybe i was just lucky...
it should be much easier for you since your engine is out.
it should be much easier for you since your engine is out.
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your build is lookin good! i had some issues laying my OMP lines as well when I had to replace mine. i ended up removing the water pump housing to get the lines far enough away from the main pulley. when i did it, i connected the lines to the engine block, routed them underneath the water pump housing and then connected the lines to the OMP. twisting the lines a little bit helped in getting them lined up with the OMP. maybe i was just lucky...
it should be much easier for you since your engine is out.
it should be much easier for you since your engine is out.
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#8
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Do you have any firsthand experience with the two parts listed below?
FEED solid motor mounts
FEED oil pressure banjo bolt/tap
Also, what is the temp rating for the SARD t-stat?
FEED solid motor mounts
FEED oil pressure banjo bolt/tap
Also, what is the temp rating for the SARD t-stat?
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The Sard T-stat is rated at 75*C.
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My daily driver is an Nissan 240SX S13 and it has solid mounts and 10K/8K HKS coilovers on it, so I know what the mounts will feel like, and can handle the harshness. My Nissan has been like this for 3 years now and the harshness doesn't get to me.
#13
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very nice selection of components. it is always nice to see another rotary build.
while there are always different ways of getting it done i have a few suggestions for you to consider.
as you know, the external oil pump was added to the FD to to add lube to the apex seals/grooves. the better solution would be to premix but Mazda figured correctly that people would consider it a hassle and forget.
the primary problem w running an EOP is that it pumps carbon filled non 2 cycle oil onto your apex seals which need to have a gap to the correct thousandth of an inch. non 2 cycle oil leaves residue and as mentioned it is filled w carbon.
drain your oil after changing it and driving 300 miles. you will be shocked at how much carbon is in it. bottom line here is junk the EOP and add 1/2 oz of 2 cycle oil for street and 1 oz per gallon for track/dyno.
you make no mention of AI. you have a 73 pound per minute turbo that will make well over 500 rwhp. simple outcome: AI (or racegas/E85) or blow your motor.
we look forward to your continuing updates and wish you good luck,
howard
while there are always different ways of getting it done i have a few suggestions for you to consider.
as you know, the external oil pump was added to the FD to to add lube to the apex seals/grooves. the better solution would be to premix but Mazda figured correctly that people would consider it a hassle and forget.
the primary problem w running an EOP is that it pumps carbon filled non 2 cycle oil onto your apex seals which need to have a gap to the correct thousandth of an inch. non 2 cycle oil leaves residue and as mentioned it is filled w carbon.
drain your oil after changing it and driving 300 miles. you will be shocked at how much carbon is in it. bottom line here is junk the EOP and add 1/2 oz of 2 cycle oil for street and 1 oz per gallon for track/dyno.
you make no mention of AI. you have a 73 pound per minute turbo that will make well over 500 rwhp. simple outcome: AI (or racegas/E85) or blow your motor.
we look forward to your continuing updates and wish you good luck,
howard
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Howard
Thanks for the suggestions. I've been battling with my mind whether to go with premixing. Due to the lines not lining up I've been really considering going with premixing, not just cause of the lines, but because of the benefits that I've read about.
I probably will end up going with some sort of AI, but I'm going to run about 1 bar of boost until I do put a system on.
Thanks for the suggestions. I've been battling with my mind whether to go with premixing. Due to the lines not lining up I've been really considering going with premixing, not just cause of the lines, but because of the benefits that I've read about.
I probably will end up going with some sort of AI, but I'm going to run about 1 bar of boost until I do put a system on.
#15
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IMO if you have a safety margin in your tune you'll be fine at that boost level without AI, although I wouldn't increase boost beyond that without AI or race fuel. There's a reason why stock cars aren't tuned on the bleeding edge of blowing up.
#16
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here's your compressor map... one bar can be as much as 60 pounds per minute of air.
868 CFM/1.92 is 452 rotary rwhp. that's 520 flywheel hp/160 cu inches is 3.25 hp per cu inch.
if you plan to run one bar w no AI there are a number of excellent engine builders available. i suggest you start checking them out.
hc
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I wouldn't care if he spoke Vulcan. I can't remember a sole on here ever disproving him, and from his experience, I feel obligated to listen when he speaks. He doesn't blow smoke, and that makes it that much easier to consider his advice.
Nice build BTW. I like the component choices you made, and +1 on the OMP removal.
#22
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I wouldn't care if he spoke Vulcan. I can't remember a sole on here ever disproving him, and from his experience, I feel obligated to listen when he speaks. He doesn't blow smoke, and that makes it that much easier to consider his advice.
Nice build BTW. I like the component choices you made, and +1 on the OMP removal.
Nice build BTW. I like the component choices you made, and +1 on the OMP removal.
Sheeesh.....
-J
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Nice work...givin Rich (the official "baller" status FD) a run for his money
+1 on Howard's suggestion to pre-mix, I'm running Amsoil Interceptor 2 stroke and have been for years
Also good choice on the HKS iridium plugs (rebadged Denso's), I love mine....just don't try to gap them!
+1 on Howard's suggestion to pre-mix, I'm running Amsoil Interceptor 2 stroke and have been for years
Also good choice on the HKS iridium plugs (rebadged Denso's), I love mine....just don't try to gap them!