: Quest for Clean Stock-Modified looking CW '94- :
07-12-14, 04:57 PM
#1
: Quest for Clean Stock-Modified looking CW '94- :
Sup Guys, Rob (Rosati) here
94 PEG (No fogs/rear wiper)
87k miles
-8/10 body 10/10 interior
Faded clearcoat on the doors , 2 small dings to be fixed and possibly a respray
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...56399803_n.jpg
Engine bay cleaned up nice....
Right now awaiting IRP Stg 2 streetport + rebuild
Mods:
-Apexi Power FC
-Magnaflow dual tip custom exhaust
and... Apexi N1 Coils
Opinions? Advice? Stay tuned!
Keeping stock rims for a while but I'm gonna go with the shine auto side skirts and OEM mud flaps (rear)
As mentioned in the title, No ricy bullshit here. Keeping it stock and clean and aggressive but subtle.
-Rosati
94 PEG (No fogs/rear wiper)
87k miles
-8/10 body 10/10 interior
Faded clearcoat on the doors , 2 small dings to be fixed and possibly a respray
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...56399803_n.jpg
Engine bay cleaned up nice....
Right now awaiting IRP Stg 2 streetport + rebuild
Mods:
-Apexi Power FC
-Magnaflow dual tip custom exhaust
and... Apexi N1 Coils
Opinions? Advice? Stay tuned!
Keeping stock rims for a while but I'm gonna go with the shine auto side skirts and OEM mud flaps (rear)
As mentioned in the title, No ricy bullshit here. Keeping it stock and clean and aggressive but subtle.
-Rosati
07-14-14, 10:36 AM
#3
Ok, my build may not be as prestigious as some other builds - Shooting to max out stock twins and kill them and go GT35R or similar in good time.
But you can bet the car will look cleaner than a lot of questionable FD's out there....
Thanks for looking
But you can bet the car will look cleaner than a lot of questionable FD's out there....
Thanks for looking
07-19-14, 05:49 PM
#5
Am I missing something? Why would we be hating on you saving an FD from sitting on the side of the road with a flat tire? Did you just buy the car or did you have it sitting for awhile?
Whatever the case, it looks like you're off to a good start. Now go smoke a doobie and quit being so serious.
Whatever the case, it looks like you're off to a good start. Now go smoke a doobie and quit being so serious.
07-19-14, 10:50 PM
#6
Am I missing something? Why would we be hating on you saving an FD from sitting on the side of the road with a flat tire? Did you just buy the car or did you have it sitting for awhile?
Whatever the case, it looks like you're off to a good start. Now go smoke a doobie and quit being so serious.
Whatever the case, it looks like you're off to a good start. Now go smoke a doobie and quit being so serious.
I don't know. Personally, there are so many build threads to keep track of that I only comment on ones where people do/make something innovative or interesting.
07-20-14, 10:06 AM
#9
What if you just pulled your engine , getting a rebuild and got no support? Just cause it isn't a 20b or 2JZ build noone gives a **** or has any advice?
It's not an ego thing - I get plenty of love of Facebook and IG. Forums are antiquated and if I can't even make small talk on a build forum then that's proof right there for me
It's not an ego thing - I get plenty of love of Facebook and IG. Forums are antiquated and if I can't even make small talk on a build forum then that's proof right there for me
07-20-14, 10:09 AM
#11
Am I missing something? Why would we be hating on you saving an FD from sitting on the side of the road with a flat tire? Did you just buy the car or did you have it sitting for awhile? Whatever the case, it looks like you're off to a good start. Now go smoke a doobie and quit being so serious.
Aaaand I'm about to light one up now
07-20-14, 12:46 PM
#13
Might as well do away w the reply function
This is social be media. Be social, I'm not looking for pats on the back partner, but looking for advice. Whining? I'm not your wife. I'm speaking my mind.
Advice on modding/mistakes you've made or learned from experience.
I was active on another forum in the past and welcomed new members, not the opposite.
Here is a write up on one of the stickies from yours truly, DIY: B5/B6 A4 1.8T - Head Removal and InstallSo I have a history with forums and am fully aware of the etiquette.
Its good to be part of the FD Community and I want to enjoy it for as long as I can and would appreciate maybe the top 5 tips you can think of?
07-20-14, 03:03 PM
#14
#1 Tip - Ask as many questions as you can.
IRP is very knowledgeable and can help you out with anything Q&A's you have. Otherwise everyone on here can help.
While you're doing your coilovers it would be a good time to check the rest of the suspension setup for wear/excessive movement. Also check the front Swaybar mounts, they are known to be weak and bend which can F with the geometry of the car.
I would also replace the motor mounts while you're down there. Most people go with two steel arms vs the oem 1 aluminum + 1 steel setup.
You could also replace the vacuum hoses with quality silicone hose.
I would also do a complete fluid change, Diff, trans, etc.
If you're getting rid of the air pump be sure to pick up an Idler pulley for betting contact of the water pump pulley.
you could do a battery relocation to clean up the bay.
When installing the engine I would put as much stuff back on it as you can. The twins can be a pain in the *** to get to when the engine is installed.
Edit: I would also get an oil pan brace
What is your fuel setup?
What Intercooler are you going to run.
IRP is very knowledgeable and can help you out with anything Q&A's you have. Otherwise everyone on here can help.
While you're doing your coilovers it would be a good time to check the rest of the suspension setup for wear/excessive movement. Also check the front Swaybar mounts, they are known to be weak and bend which can F with the geometry of the car.
I would also replace the motor mounts while you're down there. Most people go with two steel arms vs the oem 1 aluminum + 1 steel setup.
You could also replace the vacuum hoses with quality silicone hose.
I would also do a complete fluid change, Diff, trans, etc.
If you're getting rid of the air pump be sure to pick up an Idler pulley for betting contact of the water pump pulley.
you could do a battery relocation to clean up the bay.
When installing the engine I would put as much stuff back on it as you can. The twins can be a pain in the *** to get to when the engine is installed.
Edit: I would also get an oil pan brace
What is your fuel setup?
What Intercooler are you going to run.
07-21-14, 05:47 PM
#18
#1 Tip - Ask as many questions as you can.
IRP is very knowledgeable and can help you out with anything Q&A's you have. Otherwise everyone on here can help.
While you're doing your coilovers it would be a good time to check the rest of the suspension setup for wear/excessive movement. Also check the front Swaybar mounts, they are known to be weak and bend which can F with the geometry of the car.
I would also replace the motor mounts while you're down there. Most people go with two steel arms vs the oem 1 aluminum + 1 steel setup.
You could also replace the vacuum hoses with quality silicone hose.
I would also do a complete fluid change, Diff, trans, etc.
If you're getting rid of the air pump be sure to pick up an Idler pulley for betting contact of the water pump pulley.
you could do a battery relocation to clean up the bay.
When installing the engine I would put as much stuff back on it as you can. The twins can be a pain in the *** to get to when the engine is installed.
Edit: I would also get an oil pan brace
What is your fuel setup?
What Intercooler are you going to run.
IRP is very knowledgeable and can help you out with anything Q&A's you have. Otherwise everyone on here can help.
While you're doing your coilovers it would be a good time to check the rest of the suspension setup for wear/excessive movement. Also check the front Swaybar mounts, they are known to be weak and bend which can F with the geometry of the car.
I would also replace the motor mounts while you're down there. Most people go with two steel arms vs the oem 1 aluminum + 1 steel setup.
You could also replace the vacuum hoses with quality silicone hose.
I would also do a complete fluid change, Diff, trans, etc.
If you're getting rid of the air pump be sure to pick up an Idler pulley for betting contact of the water pump pulley.
you could do a battery relocation to clean up the bay.
When installing the engine I would put as much stuff back on it as you can. The twins can be a pain in the *** to get to when the engine is installed.
Edit: I would also get an oil pan brace
What is your fuel setup?
What Intercooler are you going to run.
Didn't think of getting rid of the air pump, but I Def Need new Pulleys- What do you recommend?
Ok battery to trunk- on my list.
Oil pan brace-read about it before-check.
Fuel setup is stock for now but I was going to wait for Ihor to tell me what to do on that one but with the FC commander, I'll need injectors and a new pump, I imagine.
Custom intakes and possibly a godspeed vmic , I remember a thread comparing it to Greddy and a lot of people had good things to say about it.
07-21-14, 05:49 PM
#19
1: get rid of the stock AST
2: do away with the Mazda precat
3: bail the OEM intercooler
4: 86 the plastic-tanked radiator
5: lose the 20+ year old suspension bushings.
6:
Don´t Bogart That Joint My Friend (HD 2013) - YouTube
2: do away with the Mazda precat
3: bail the OEM intercooler
4: 86 the plastic-tanked radiator
5: lose the 20+ year old suspension bushings.
6:
Don´t Bogart That Joint My Friend (HD 2013) - YouTube
2-Aftermarket downpipe, think Benny has one for me (bubbletech)
3-itll make a fine door stop
4- ????
07-22-14, 12:34 PM
#21
I just meant the stock radiator isn't really dependable like a Koyo or Fluidyne. As long as you're down there, a set of dual R1 oil coolers might be a good idea too. They're much easier to get to with the radiator out. Can't run too cool in the summer. 
Also, one more thing that might be worth thinking about. If you plan on road racing the car or even taking it to the track, leave the battery OUT of the driver's cabin. A lot of guys go with a 51R battery and if you're lucky you'll find TurboJeff battery tray. The 51R is much smaller and lighter weight than the stock one and it'll make room for an oversized SMIC.
Also, one more thing that might be worth thinking about. If you plan on road racing the car or even taking it to the track, leave the battery OUT of the driver's cabin. A lot of guys go with a 51R battery and if you're lucky you'll find TurboJeff battery tray. The 51R is much smaller and lighter weight than the stock one and it'll make room for an oversized SMIC.
07-22-14, 01:45 PM
#22
Also, one more thing that might be worth thinking about. If you plan on road racing the car or even taking it to the track, leave the battery OUT of the driver's cabin. A lot of guys go with a 51R battery and if you're lucky you'll find TurboJeff battery tray. The 51R is much smaller and lighter weight than the stock one and it'll make room for an oversized SMIC.
as long as it is a dry cell or gel cell battery, why not put it in the rear hatch area? it simplifies the engine bay, removes the battery from the hell-hot inferno FD engine bay, and you can reposition it to the passenger side to help with Left:Right weight distribution. now, if you're talking lead cell with acid vapors, i totally understand that.
i've also seen that the batteries that are relocated out of the engine bay have lasted longer. this may be due to the less vicious heat/cold cycling, as the engine bay is a pretty harsh hot/cold cycle area, as long as you use high quality power and ground cables.
07-22-14, 03:21 PM
#23
The original post said nothing about gel or dry cell, he just said to relocate it. I'm the 1st one to mention anything but a stock battery.
I always understood that if there isn't a firewall between you and the stock battery, then you won't pass tech.
Personally, for my worst case scenario, the less **** bolted down near my head in the driver's compartment the better. Dry, gel, or goose down.
I always understood that if there isn't a firewall between you and the stock battery, then you won't pass tech.
Personally, for my worst case scenario, the less **** bolted down near my head in the driver's compartment the better. Dry, gel, or goose down.
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