RotaryAttack

Hey guys, I'm planning my entire build before I start shoveling money out the door.

Which builders offer some kind of warranty if any? My last engine was built by Adam at RX7Specialties and it only lasted 7,000km(2rotor, stockport + race apex seals) Its the only experience ive had with Adam but I'd still like to try someone else. I've heard RotaryResurrection is a great place. (Im located in Sask, Canada.) Any advise is appreciated.

My next FD will be shooting for 450 - 500 whp on pump gas, if possible. I want my engine to last 2 summers, or atleast 20,000km of hard street driving and street racing.
So im thinking large street port. I would love a half bridge port, but I have no experience, and like I said, I want two years out of this engine, I doubt a half bridge will last that long.

So for 450 hp, with a large street port, im thinking GTX35R, 1.06ar, v-band, T4 TurblownEngineering Twinscroll manifold. Does that sound right?? Also what size injectors should i be using, primary and secondary?

Any advise on what machining i should get done to make the engine last longer?
I want the entire assembly lightened as well. What studs should i get, should i get them doweled, should i get T2 rotors, or special corner seals, what size apex seals?

RotaryAttack

Bump

HalifaxFD

iTrader: (18)

There's lots of engine builders out there. I've been dealing with Adam for many years with no issues. He has a warranty on his apex seals, he'll replace them if they break if installed with new housings.

The first thing I'd try to figure out would be why the engine blew up, most likely will have to be disassembled by a competent builder to be sure.

I'd search some more and reach out to some builders for their thoughts, Turblown, Banzai racing, IRP performance etc.

Good luck.

RotaryAttack

I don't even have that engine anymore so I'd like to focus on the current build. Thanks for the input, better than nothing!

RotaryAttack

Lol guess that's it. Love this forum.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

I understand you may be frustrated with not getting much response. However, you also have to look at more than just your own little circle of influence. I bet you don't know just how often over the years people ask questions much like yours. Also, I think your post would have actually gotten more responses in the 'third generation specific' section and not the 'build threads' section, as this is not a 'build thread'. This is an 'asking for advice' thread. Don't be afraid to get involved on the forum, but getting snippy and being a dick will normally get you nowhere. So I would recommend dropping the 'why-are-you-not-catering-to-me-instantly' tantrum and start being more professional. The 'Rotary performance' section also has many threads, especially if you go back a ways, that would pertain to your goals.

Please use the search function and check out the vendors that support this forum.

Not knowing why your last engine blew is a recipe for disaster. What if it had nothing to do with the physical engine? Clogged injector, failed fuel pump, ecu issue, 'on-the-edge' tune with a bad batch of fuel, etc etc. So just writing it off and building a new engine blindly may lead you to another blown engine.

As for engine builders, there are quite a few. My personal engine was built by IRPerformance. My goals were close to yours (max 400) and you could start there. You also never listed a budget. What do you currently have? etc. etc. Now don't expect everyone to do all of your work for you. Read, read, read. You'll be amazed at how much you can pick up in a few months of researching in your free time.

If you want to have a great all-around car, look at the EFR8374 IWG turbo kits from Turblown or another vendor that makes the kits. Preferably from a supporting vendor. The 'other' forum is also a good resource but has less members and the responses are more spaced out. (Probably not a good fit for you from what you have shown so far) Back on topic, the efr8374 will meet your power goals with excellent spool. If you go IWG (Internal Wastegate) you will not have the complexity of running an external gate or gates.

Stock ports can make the power you want just fine. Maybe just have them smoothed out and manifolds port matched. Nothing crazy. Porting will shift your powerband to the right. For a track car, this is fine, but for a street or autocross car, not so much.

RotaryAttack

Thanks muchly. I don't have a budget because I'm not in a rush so I can get parts when I get paycheques. And my last engine was in my last car. I put a rebuild engine in it, emissions non seq stuff all done, power FC and had my town rotary master tune it, then I sold it to a freshly turned 16y/o who had it for a winter and a few months of summer, even let me drive it again, never drove it so hard when I had it. Then I arranged to have my town rotary master retune it and when we get there and start it up, it's running on 1 rotor, and 0 (the dial didn't even nudge) on the compression test. The other rotor was 110 or something and there was no reverse, like if you tried to find a gear between 2nd and 4th on the bottom that's what it felt like trying to put it in reverse, felt like this car doesn't have a reverse. And this was over a year ago and now the kid says someone put water in his gas tank. It's not mine anymore so whatever.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

IWG EFR is the way to go. If you run it at higher boost pressure it will feel like you have a 20B under the hood.