Figured i´d post a thread on my FD build that has been going on for years now. There are a lot of nice bulids and knowledge on the forum so i figured I´d take advantage of that
(and btw, sorry about the spelling, Norwegian)


The build started with a 99% stock 95 FD, euro version. Did the FMIC and exhaust at first, and then it kind of snowballed.... Unfortunately, it started as reasonably well funded build and turned to a budget build. The goal is to "set up" the car for auto-x.

After 4 years most of the mods are bolt on, but this year I started building my own DIY V-mount.

Mods done so far are:

Engine:
Apexi PFC
BNR stage 3 twins
KG fuel kit (850,1680)
Walboro 255, re-wired to constant 12V
RW Throttle body
DIY V-mount (koyo radiator and re-welded Greddy FMIC)
25 row oilcoolers, mocal t-stat.
HKS twin power
replaced AST
Exedy clutch
Deleted AC, Airbags
Simplified vacuum
Oil catch can
Full 3" exhuast


Suspiension
D2 street coilovers
Racing Beat sway bars (front,rear)
Racing Beat front sway bar brace

Exterior
99 spec lower chinspoiler
Shine auto diffuser, wing, stepsides
Evo-r headlights
AEZ wheels

Interior
Momo steeringwheel
Mazdaspeed Type F seats

And then some visual aids:


The car as it was before I started working on it this year


DIY brackets for radiator (made all brackets from aluminum)


V-mount view front view


Mounted Oilcoolers






How the engine bay looks now

The plan is now to get it on the dyno and see whats what. I am going to be running 14-15 psi of boost. I´v started doing some basic idle tuning and cleaning up of the old ign map I used last year in order to save time on the dyno. Did not manage to get it dynoed last year.

 

Blir bra det der Misunner setene! Kor fekk du tak i dei?

 

Where did you get those seats? (was the question)

Got them from a facebook group. at an affordable price....

 

Fin bil. Ska du till Rudskogen i sommar?

 

Nice v-mount setup for the twins

 

thanks. it was the best i could do with the parts I had available. This is what i would call V1.0.
I had an idea of building a setup i saw on a nascar actually, but that requires a lot more fabricating, maybe next winter.



Something like this is aluminum, and the IC and radiator would be inside the ducting.

 

A small utdate om my build.

The car was dynoed 2 weeks ago on a dynapack. The end result was 330rwhp and 380 rw nm @ 1kg/cm2 of boost. Sounds like a normal result from what iv read om other threads.

Went on an auto x session last weekend and the car preformed good. Only problem was that the ic piping keept popping of, probably because the piping does not have a flange at the end, so fixing that would cure the problem.

The DIY v mount and 25 row oilcoolers did the job almost too much. Intake temps where equal to ambiant temp aprox 20c. Water temps never went above 90 - 95. Only thing i saw was that oiltemps ( sensor on oilfilter pedistal = oil from coolers) where a bit low and took some time to get up to 80-90c.. I am guessing that oiltemps om the sump are 10-20c warmer than the oil coming from the coolers...? Anyone with an idea.

And i am done with coilovers.. To stiff for road use.. Going to switch to koni with lowering springs...

 

Don't give up on coilovers because the D2's sucked. They're not a well loved brand.

Your vmount is very nice, but it will difficult to drain your radiator I think. The drain plugs are now in a bad position, just something to consider revising later.

Do you have two thermostats for your oil coolers? Or, are you running them in parallel?
It's possible that you could have a thermostat stuck open, or maybe your oil cooling system is just really big.

 

I think the d2 coilovers are 12k front and rear. To stiff for road use ( bad roads on this part of norway) new coilovers are expensive compared to e.x yellow koni dampers and lowring springs. The d2 are good on a track surface.

The rad draunplug... I just disconect the lower hose ( its not a v mount radiator with top inlet/outlet)

I have a mocal t-stat, the coolers are paralell 25 row so they are big. But if the oil in the oilpan is 15-20 c warmer ( the oil temp sensor is mounted on the cool side of the system) its ok,

 

Here is the dynochart
these numbers where consistant at several pulls.
1kg cm2 boost, 11-11,4-5 AFR at full boost
Knock readings at full boost below 5-10 on PFC
Water temps never went above 95-98c
AIT never over ambiant temp ( aprox 24c)

I'v managde to decrese the drop in boost somewhat using the AVC-R, but i belive this is consistant with the 10-8-10 psi pattern of the OEM turbos