My Garage Built 93 :p
01-02-15, 07:21 PM
#26
I'll post in a bit once I finish cleaning and then after I eat.
I'll answer the abs question too. I want to get on my computer to post up everything instead of the mobile app hahah.
Stay tuned,
Nick
01-03-15, 12:38 AM
#27
Small, but BIG update
Hello all,
So as some may know or have figured out by my other "wanted" ads or other posts, I decided to get out of the 2-rotor scene.
My decision was because I didn't think I would be satisfied with a single turbo'd 13b-rew.
So instead of finishing my single turbo this winter I decided to jump into an even bigger and more expensive project.
One of the main things I needed to do before jumping into this route of my FD build was to sell my 88 T2.
I did not post it up, but had a couple buddies interested in it and a few other locals that stopped by during the fall months when they picked up parts I was selling also throwing numbers of "interest" for purchasing the T2.
Nobody was really serious. I told myself the only way I would sell this T2 was if I could buy the motor I planned on running in my FD.
In November the new route became final. The T2 I just purchased for $1000, that had great compression, was sold to a buddy of mine for a nice profit.
However, I had to wait several weeks before I could purchase the motor I planned on running. Those weeks were the most challenging for me. I continuously wanted to purchase parts to finish the exterior of the FD, I contemplated buying a 99spec front clip (w/ rew motor), it was crazy.
But, earlier last December (more like mid December) I finally got my hands on the motor I wanted.
So, I decided to jump on it. I bought it....It was a little more than I was previously quoted, but I figuredthe chances of the prices going down were not very high.
Anywho....I went on a vacation to New York last week and was supposed to be getting the motor I ordered before the vacation, but I guess drivers cannot make it from the midpoint of my motor's travel (KS) to Minnesota in 4 days...
..Whatever....
So I went to New York patiently waiting to go back home to get my motor delivered.
Had a fun week, expensive week, spending time with the wife's family, went to the Statue of Liberty, went to "Rockafella" center, times square, the twin tower memorial (the new towers), ahhhh yeah went all over.
On the last night I went to eat a restaurant in Manhattan called "Serafina." Spent $175 on dinner and left hungry
. I guess truffles are expensive and you do not get a large portion of pasta w/ truffles
.
This really had nothing to do with the update, but I figured I would pretend people cared about my vacation and lovely truffle experience
.
So now onto the important small, but big update.
Today (well yesterday I guess you could say), Jan. 2, 2015, the delivery truck arrives at approximately 1:45PM (CST).
I get even more excited. A friend even stopped by because he wanted to actually see one of these motors in person.
The guy unloads it and brings it into my garage.
As you can see it was nicely wrapped.
I unwrapped the motor...well lets let pics do the explaining:
So no more secret the cat is out of the bag....I am officially going 3-Rotor!
There were some clips and stuff damaged I can post up later today, but I figured I would leave this early morning/late night with the important ones.
Thanks for patiently waiting everyone!
Big steps will be taken soon!
-Nick
So as some may know or have figured out by my other "wanted" ads or other posts, I decided to get out of the 2-rotor scene.
My decision was because I didn't think I would be satisfied with a single turbo'd 13b-rew.
So instead of finishing my single turbo this winter I decided to jump into an even bigger and more expensive project.
One of the main things I needed to do before jumping into this route of my FD build was to sell my 88 T2.
I did not post it up, but had a couple buddies interested in it and a few other locals that stopped by during the fall months when they picked up parts I was selling also throwing numbers of "interest" for purchasing the T2.
Nobody was really serious. I told myself the only way I would sell this T2 was if I could buy the motor I planned on running in my FD.
In November the new route became final. The T2 I just purchased for $1000, that had great compression, was sold to a buddy of mine for a nice profit.
However, I had to wait several weeks before I could purchase the motor I planned on running. Those weeks were the most challenging for me. I continuously wanted to purchase parts to finish the exterior of the FD, I contemplated buying a 99spec front clip (w/ rew motor), it was crazy.
But, earlier last December (more like mid December) I finally got my hands on the motor I wanted.
So, I decided to jump on it. I bought it....It was a little more than I was previously quoted, but I figuredthe chances of the prices going down were not very high.
Anywho....I went on a vacation to New York last week and was supposed to be getting the motor I ordered before the vacation, but I guess drivers cannot make it from the midpoint of my motor's travel (KS) to Minnesota in 4 days...
..Whatever....So I went to New York patiently waiting to go back home to get my motor delivered.
Had a fun week, expensive week, spending time with the wife's family, went to the Statue of Liberty, went to "Rockafella" center, times square, the twin tower memorial (the new towers), ahhhh yeah went all over.
On the last night I went to eat a restaurant in Manhattan called "Serafina." Spent $175 on dinner and left hungry
. I guess truffles are expensive and you do not get a large portion of pasta w/ truffles. This really had nothing to do with the update, but I figured I would pretend people cared about my vacation and lovely truffle experience
.So now onto the important small, but big update.
Today (well yesterday I guess you could say), Jan. 2, 2015, the delivery truck arrives at approximately 1:45PM (CST).
I get even more excited. A friend even stopped by because he wanted to actually see one of these motors in person.
The guy unloads it and brings it into my garage.
As you can see it was nicely wrapped.
I unwrapped the motor...well lets let pics do the explaining:
So no more secret the cat is out of the bag....I am officially going 3-Rotor!
There were some clips and stuff damaged I can post up later today, but I figured I would leave this early morning/late night with the important ones.
Thanks for patiently waiting everyone!
Big steps will be taken soon!
-Nick
01-03-15, 08:49 AM
#30
I am going to be running the Adaptronic 1280.
Cardboard AND paper mâché 
.
Thanks!
My plans this far are to single turbo it. I contemplated doing a n/a 3-rotor, but decided to just turbo it. I figured I didn't want to run ITBs and that intake manifold is pretty sexy.
So on my upcoming parts buy I will pick up the following:
FFE 20b fuel rails,
6xI ID1000cc injectors
Adaptronic 1280 ecu.
This should be bought by next week. Then I'll be working with Rich at xcessive to figure out my mounts so I don't have to alter my subframe and will pick up the following from him:
20b fd mounts,
Xcessive short LIM,
Xcessive oil pan kit.
I do have a couple of questions:
1) if I modify the oil pick-up tube on the 20b to not have that dip when it first comes off of the motor will that cause any premature failure down the road?
I ask this because the only problem I foresee with the xcessive oil pan kit is that it will hit on the rack. I would go with defined auto, but the mounts are $750 there compared to $320 at xcessive. I also wouldn't have to wait "x" amount of months to get my mounts OR pay fees.
2) will 6x1000cc injectors adequate?
I am going to most likely run a BW efr 9180 w/ a 60mm waste-gate, 14psi of boost, 4" down-pipe and exhaust.
3) the FFE rails use -8an fittings. Should I use a -6an to -8an adaptors and run my -6an fuel line and fuel lab mini fpr or should I just use all -8an fittings and lines and either pick up a new fpr w/-8an fittings or use -6an to -8an on the fpr?
I plan on running new lines from the sending unit to the front so I can run an inline filter as well. I have an aeromotive 340 I will be running as well.
All in all my set-up should look like this:
Ffe rails,
Id1000 injectors,
Adaptronic 1280 ecu,
Xcessive mounts,
Xcessive oil pan kit,
Xcessive LIM (short),
Ffe 30 tooth trigger kit,
Xtrem rotaries EWP adaptor,
Custom side mount alternator,
Custom radiator w/ integrated water pump,
Custom intercooler set-up,
Cx racing single turbo manifold (looks decent maybe I could hear some input on this),
60mm hks waste-gate,
BW efr9180 turbo,
RW throttle body.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
Thanks for looking and future input!
Stay tuned,
-Nick
.My plans this far are to single turbo it. I contemplated doing a n/a 3-rotor, but decided to just turbo it. I figured I didn't want to run ITBs and that intake manifold is pretty sexy.
So on my upcoming parts buy I will pick up the following:
FFE 20b fuel rails,
6xI ID1000cc injectors
Adaptronic 1280 ecu.
This should be bought by next week. Then I'll be working with Rich at xcessive to figure out my mounts so I don't have to alter my subframe and will pick up the following from him:
20b fd mounts,
Xcessive short LIM,
Xcessive oil pan kit.
I do have a couple of questions:
1) if I modify the oil pick-up tube on the 20b to not have that dip when it first comes off of the motor will that cause any premature failure down the road?
I ask this because the only problem I foresee with the xcessive oil pan kit is that it will hit on the rack. I would go with defined auto, but the mounts are $750 there compared to $320 at xcessive. I also wouldn't have to wait "x" amount of months to get my mounts OR pay fees.
2) will 6x1000cc injectors adequate?
I am going to most likely run a BW efr 9180 w/ a 60mm waste-gate, 14psi of boost, 4" down-pipe and exhaust.
3) the FFE rails use -8an fittings. Should I use a -6an to -8an adaptors and run my -6an fuel line and fuel lab mini fpr or should I just use all -8an fittings and lines and either pick up a new fpr w/-8an fittings or use -6an to -8an on the fpr?
I plan on running new lines from the sending unit to the front so I can run an inline filter as well. I have an aeromotive 340 I will be running as well.
All in all my set-up should look like this:
Ffe rails,
Id1000 injectors,
Adaptronic 1280 ecu,
Xcessive mounts,
Xcessive oil pan kit,
Xcessive LIM (short),
Ffe 30 tooth trigger kit,
Xtrem rotaries EWP adaptor,
Custom side mount alternator,
Custom radiator w/ integrated water pump,
Custom intercooler set-up,
Cx racing single turbo manifold (looks decent maybe I could hear some input on this),
60mm hks waste-gate,
BW efr9180 turbo,
RW throttle body.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
Thanks for looking and future input!
Stay tuned,
-Nick
01-04-15, 11:57 PM
#31
Another "late night" post :p
Tonight I just took the time to clean up my garage a little more and then started to remove some of the accessories on the 20b that I am not going to be using.
Regardless of compression, I plan on rebuilding the motor and pinning it. The 20b I have is a "B-Code" motor. I do not plan on running high boost, but I figure that if I do it now it might save me money down the road.
Before I take on that task I will make sure everything is wired, mounted, and in its place. This way when its in the process of being rebuilt I will focus on the other minor things to get my garage queen ready.
I personally know very little about 3-rotors. I have a lot to learn for sure.
If anyone has any input on:
1) whether I can use my exedy clutch kit (12.6lb flywheel, single carbon disc, pp) without having to change a counterweight,
2) where I can find (linking me) a wiring diagram for the 20b or anything I will need to get this beast wired up with the 1280 ecu,and
3) what size "an fitting" can I use for the front cover for the oil cooler line (I had a couple 18mm to 10an straight fittings left over from my FD rew front cover, but they seem to be smaller)?
ALL advice will be appreciated!
Here are some pics to help the eyes (disregard my garage it is messy still):
My V8 hahahhah
here is the location I am asking about for size to screw into the front cover
Light makes me look even more like a ghost!
Regardless of compression, I plan on rebuilding the motor and pinning it. The 20b I have is a "B-Code" motor. I do not plan on running high boost, but I figure that if I do it now it might save me money down the road.
Before I take on that task I will make sure everything is wired, mounted, and in its place. This way when its in the process of being rebuilt I will focus on the other minor things to get my garage queen ready.
I personally know very little about 3-rotors. I have a lot to learn for sure.
If anyone has any input on:
1) whether I can use my exedy clutch kit (12.6lb flywheel, single carbon disc, pp) without having to change a counterweight,
2) where I can find (linking me) a wiring diagram for the 20b or anything I will need to get this beast wired up with the 1280 ecu,and
3) what size "an fitting" can I use for the front cover for the oil cooler line (I had a couple 18mm to 10an straight fittings left over from my FD rew front cover, but they seem to be smaller)?
ALL advice will be appreciated!
Here are some pics to help the eyes (disregard my garage it is messy still):
My V8 hahahhah
here is the location I am asking about for size to screw into the front cover
Light makes me look even more like a ghost!
01-05-15, 12:06 AM
#32
Pics cont.
What I removed so far:
1) a/c pump
2) p/s pump & bracket
3) ignition coils w/ wires
4) air pump
5) clutch fan
I think that's it?
I guess this is the starter harness?
I am definitely NOT looking into wiring this harness up. The engine harness is still on the motor obviously. I haven't gotten time to remove it yet.
Oh and my Dad got me some tools for x-mas...
Pic of rough dimensions of the 20b in case someone was wondering:
Another Note:
The 20b alt pulley seems to be roughly 1/4" wider than the REW pulley. The FD pulley has 4 teeth while the 20b has 6 teeth. In return, the belt is around 1" wide vs. the rew 3/4" wide.
Maybe this would be a good alternative to run with the FD if people remove the air pump to reduce the possibility of slipping?
Pic of 20b Pulley
The REW pulley pic didn't get uploaded I guess. I will post some pics of them later I suppose if people are interested.
Thanks again for tuning in.
-Nick
1) a/c pump
2) p/s pump & bracket
3) ignition coils w/ wires
4) air pump
5) clutch fan
I think that's it?
I guess this is the starter harness?
I am definitely NOT looking into wiring this harness up
. The engine harness is still on the motor obviously. I haven't gotten time to remove it yet. Oh and my Dad got me some tools for x-mas...
Pic of rough dimensions of the 20b in case someone was wondering:
Another Note:
The 20b alt pulley seems to be roughly 1/4" wider than the REW pulley. The FD pulley has 4 teeth while the 20b has 6 teeth. In return, the belt is around 1" wide vs. the rew 3/4" wide.
Maybe this would be a good alternative to run with the FD if people remove the air pump to reduce the possibility of slipping?
Pic of 20b Pulley
The REW pulley pic didn't get uploaded I guess. I will post some pics of them later I suppose if people are interested.
Thanks again for tuning in.
-Nick
01-07-15, 10:30 PM
#35
Update 1-7-15
Just a small update in preparing for my basic bolt on stuff.
Tonight I took time to remove my twin turbos/manifold. This process took me roughly an hour an thirty minutes. Surprisingly, I did not break any heat shield bolts off.
Everything came off fine. In the next couple of days I will remove my my intake manifold and prepare for my xcessive short LIM.
Also, if anyone could answer the questions I posted previously on this build thread I would appreciate it
.
Here are some pics and videos:
I started to label the engine harness too (as much as I could).
These turbos have very minimal shaft play and will be posted up in the for sale section in the near future!
I think this is the MAF plug-in? I didn't receive a MAF with the swap, which I hope isn't that big of a problem.
Oh and I only have one motor mount that it came with lol.
Tonight I took time to remove my twin turbos/manifold. This process took me roughly an hour an thirty minutes. Surprisingly, I did not break any heat shield bolts off.
Everything came off fine. In the next couple of days I will remove my my intake manifold and prepare for my xcessive short LIM.
Also, if anyone could answer the questions I posted previously on this build thread I would appreciate it
.Here are some pics and videos:
I started to label the engine harness too (as much as I could).
These turbos have very minimal shaft play and will be posted up in the for sale section in the near future!
I think this is the MAF plug-in? I didn't receive a MAF with the swap, which I hope isn't that big of a problem.
Oh and I only have one motor mount that it came with lol.
01-10-15, 12:50 PM
#38
I can only foresee the 3-rotors going up in price in the near future (unless something crazy happens and Mazda produces more parts for them...).
The 13b-Rew is an amazing motor. I just wanted to be unique.
I have a massive hoard of fd motor parts/parts that need to sell so I can get this 20b closer to running in the fd, but hey tax season is coming so hopefully I can get more funds to finish this before power cruise :p.
I'll be picking up a tig welder in a month or so I'm thinking.
Going to be blowing insulation in my garage today (ceiling) so that should help keep it even more heated. Also will be looking at installing LED lighting. Nothing I hate more than not being able to see when I'm working.
01-17-15, 05:11 PM
#44
I sold a few to buddies of mine. I basically let my motors sit on the stand with them for a week before I sell them to make sure everything is good.
Ok another note, what is a adequate "cold" engine compression?
I can say I've not taken a cold engine compression check.
01-18-15, 06:47 PM
#45
Yeah I built it.
I sold a few to buddies of mine. I basically let my motors sit on the stand with them for a week before I sell them to make sure everything is good.
Ok another note, what is a adequate "cold" engine compression?
I can say I've not taken a cold engine compression check.
I'm not sure what adequate cold compression is - I'm interested to know as well.
01-19-15, 11:27 AM
#47
Update 1-19-15
Hello once again.
Well, I finally had time to spend a day on getting the FD on stands. Not a lot went on other than compression checking my 20b.
I'll post a video of that later this week, but lets just say on a cold motor it was hitting only 60PSI on each face of the rotor
.
Even after warming the garage to a t-shirt temp it was still a consistent 60PSI.
After removing the flex-plate I installed the exedy flywheel for Compression testing purposes (plus it was lightened).
Then after the compression checking it was on to fitting the motor in the bay to see how bad the fitment was lol
After getting under the car with the 20b just test fitted I could see why there is problems with the location of the front rack.
Mainly the front part of the oil pan on the 20b that has a "hump" AND the rear of the oil pan where the oil plug is. This is why Defined alters the oil pan and relocated the plug to towards the front.
Am I able to flatten out the front of the oil pan on the 20b? I understand the oil pick-up is there, but if I can change something in the front of the pan to allow it to fit in the bay without altering the subframe.
ANYWAYS...
This pic symbolizes what I feel every Rotary guy/gal does sometime in his/her life...
Disregard the clutter! It is a work in process
Just another Side shot of the FD
ON another note, I spoke with Mark at adaptronic and he mentioned the Mercury Marine coils ARE the same as AEM smart coils.
He also suggested I use the 36-1 trigger kit from FFE to give more timing accuracy.
Does anybody have any thoughts?
Thanks again for tuning in. Videos will be up later this week (I hope).
-Nick
Well, I finally had time to spend a day on getting the FD on stands. Not a lot went on other than compression checking my 20b.
I'll post a video of that later this week, but lets just say on a cold motor it was hitting only 60PSI on each face of the rotor
.Even after warming the garage to a t-shirt temp it was still a consistent 60PSI.
After removing the flex-plate I installed the exedy flywheel for Compression testing purposes (plus it was lightened).
Then after the compression checking it was on to fitting the motor in the bay to see how bad the fitment was lol
After getting under the car with the 20b just test fitted I could see why there is problems with the location of the front rack.
Mainly the front part of the oil pan on the 20b that has a "hump" AND the rear of the oil pan where the oil plug is. This is why Defined alters the oil pan and relocated the plug to towards the front.
Am I able to flatten out the front of the oil pan on the 20b? I understand the oil pick-up is there, but if I can change something in the front of the pan to allow it to fit in the bay without altering the subframe.
ANYWAYS...
This pic symbolizes what I feel every Rotary guy/gal does sometime in his/her life...
Disregard the clutter! It is a work in process
Just another Side shot of the FD
ON another note, I spoke with Mark at adaptronic and he mentioned the Mercury Marine coils ARE the same as AEM smart coils.
He also suggested I use the 36-1 trigger kit from FFE to give more timing accuracy.
Does anybody have any thoughts?
Thanks again for tuning in. Videos will be up later this week (I hope).
-Nick
01-20-15, 10:02 PM
#50
This is my video of bad compression on the 12a in the FB I'm working on. Even this cranking speed was called slow by other guys here on the fourm.
I do agree that the cranking speed in the video does look extremely slow. It would help to be able to hear the sound of the engine cranking as well. I was told that 200 RPM was the minimum cranking speed to get a good compression reading on a rotary.