I auto-x once a month put ~ 10k miles on the car a year. With those camber settings I only start to get inside tire wear on the off season.

With the big tires it is hard to wear them out before you heat cycle them out on street and auto-x even on that alignment. My 30utqg Ventus TDs lasted well over a year/10k miles on the FD.

Feel like the 295 R888 are going to be forever tires unless I can get to a track! (Damn good excuse to track)

 

i have another event coming up tuesday night at NCM track again:

Track Night in America

basically 1/2 of a track day, only from 4pm-8pm, and $150.

i ordered some DTC-60 brake pads for the front because i was slightly overheating my HP+ pads on the R888 tires.

awyea

 

survived the track night. FD did well. i will upload my videos tonight.

some cliff notes:

i could still only go all-out for about 2 laps for every 1 cool off lap, due to oil temps and intake temps. the coolant temps were great though. i am running the stock undertray, full ac system (condenser in front of the radiator) with a koyo radiator and about 70/30 water/antifreeze.

the ambient temp was ~82*F, and the oil temps and air temps were unacceptable.
oil temp got to ~240*F and air temp hit 160*F a few times

the good news is i can easily add oil cooling, and a cold air intake will surely fix the intake temps. i'll be working on that in the next couple weeks.

the bottom line is that the oil and air cooling is insufficient.

this track night was similar to the previous track day, but yesterday was hotter (+10*F) and the track was about 2/3rds the length (different track configuration for the track night)


in other news, the car stopped REALLY hard on DTC-60 pads with the toyo R888s, so that's good.

 

was wondering if you made it to the track.

stinks that the intercooler didn't fix your IATs.

Any new thoughts on what you are going to do with oil temps? Piece together a new kit, maybe use a AT trans cooler?

Still liking the turbo setup for track usage? I know you don't like the open wg but do you like the turbo spool?

 

the intercooler alone usually won't completely fix the intake temps unless you give the turbo some sort of fresh air. i currently have the filter sitting right on the turbo, which is definitely raising the initial air temp substantially. i'm going to integrate the turbo intake into the pettit duct, and i think it's going to work out nicely.

about the oil cooler, yes i'm going to do something like add a second cooler (probably a generic chinese one) and make some aeromotive pushlok lines for it. i'll use an auto trans cooler like you mention if i can find one, then make some custom lines for that. they seem to be pretty rare though.

yes i am liking the turbo setup. i dont like the vented external wastegate, but that's fixed pretty easily with a recirc pipe going to the downpipe. i have about $1100 in the whole turbo setup and it's worked well for two track days so far. it's definitely laggier than my EFR setup was (duh, it is literally 1/4 the cost) but not bad. it feels similar to the precision6464.84/turblown setup i had a while back. you can see the response in my videos. it's not a T51R Kai or something. i'm still impressed with the s360 for the price.

 

Jacob,
I think it was the "cheap bastard" cold intake design that I copied.
It takes air past the side of the radiator.
My first one was aluminum but it absorbed to much heat.... so it was replaced with a two-piece fiberglass setup. Runs about 38*C on a 34*C day.

 

OK barry, that's impressive. where do i sign up?

there's no way i hell i could fiberglass something like that. and the thought of making it out of aluminum with pop rivets makes my hands hurt.

 

Jacob,

I thought you might like to know why your old iwg setup was overboosting. I have been shipping out 10 plus iwg kits a month and keeping a close eye on them. 98 percent of guys can hold 10 to 11 psi. One car was overboosting, after leaning it out and adding more advance the boost creep went away.

 

^
This seems feasible to me if Jacob's set-up was tuned really rich (I don't remember that far back).

I ported my old S5 stock manifold and turbo housing into an inefficient converging at WG/diverging to turbine AR on my Hybrid T04B 60-1 P trim in order to hold 12psi boost on the 60mm external WG.

After that when I wanted to run 18psi I had to dump fuel (in the 9s AFRs) to keep the turbo spooled to 18psi on the top end with manifold combustion.

Pig rich + Boost = a couple more hp peak power on my motor versus leaner + less boost. Gas engine chuffing like a diesel is cool right?

 

Always

 

elliot, what advance and AFR was your customer running before and after the issue? i was running in the low 11's and 18* advance at 12psi. ~12* split.

if no response, i'm going to have to chalk this one as a nicely placed marketing post for your IWG kits.

 

elliot, what advance and AFR was your customer running before and after the issue? i was running in the low 11's and 18* advance at 12psi. ~12* split.

Yeah, that is not rich on a turbo car.

 

I still think it was the ignition misfire/weak ignition issue you were having. When unburnt fuel gets dumped into the exhaust manifold it ignites and expands through the turbo, basically the same thing as if the timing was really retarded.

 

arca, i am aware of the concept.

the only time i had ignition misfire was when i attempted to run e85 on stock spark plugs.

i find it very unlikely that my LS1 coils running at 4.5ms in direct fire were having spark issues on gasoline, but i'm sure stranger things have happened. i never swapped the ignition coils, so i guess we'll never know

 

I didn't tune the car so I don't know exactly where the ignition advance is. I was told the AFRs were in mid 10s. In the last week there are several guys who have reported that they are seeing less than you on the base spring pressure after being tuned. Keep in mind these are just examples I have seen on the forum, more people have told me the same on the phone. We are selling so many of these turbos kits, I can assure you I don't need to make any marketing plugs. I figured you would like to know.

 

interesting!

i guess we will never know.

 

ok, multi-part update:

part 1:
i've been mostly DDing the FD for about 2 months now. the car is surprisingly nice to cruise around it, due mostly to the AIR CONDITIONING blowing very cold and working well. after starting the car and letting it idle with the AC on when it's 97*F outside the vent temp is ~50*F. driving around with more airflow and RPM the vent temp is ~38*F and cycling on/off with the thermostat on the evap.
i took the car up to Louisville for the 4th of July weekend (~3hr drive from Nashville), drove it around all weekend, and drove back. no issues. i got 26.2mpg on the drive back. that measurement was all interstate driving, but still good.

pics from the weekend




pics of the AC install: (air duster / diflouroethane / R152)
also, note this was done with the original R12 expansion valve, so with the correct R134a expansion valve the gas would cool a little better. it's working well enough to not mess with it though. it worked so well in fact that i had the voltage trigger input settings incorrect on the haltech so the ac was effectively stuck "on" and didn't cycle. the temp got down to 28*F and it started blowing frost out of the vents. sounds great, but i didnt want to freeze/break my evap, so i disconnected the AC relay until i got the voltages right.








i also installed new hatch struts (the tuff lift kind from amazon) and the mounting hardware is ridiculous. if you buy these you'll have to come up with something else to mount them, as the little e-clips they come with don't cut it. they both flew off after maybe the 10th time i opened the hatch... i am working on fixing this currently.
(i may have mentioned this earlier)

i'm going to run a die over the stud these struts mount to so i can put a lock nut on it. hindsight is 20/20 as they say.




the reason i was primarily driving the FD is because i was planning on selling my cheap lexus SC300 daily car and getting a cheap company lease car, but this happened:


i don't have full-coverage insurance on the SC300 because the car was so cheap, and it may not be worth fixing, so now i just want to get rid of it.

this happened when my former roommate was driving the car, and a very small deer jetted out on front of him (i was in a truck in front of them on the interstate)

unfortunate.

 

part 2:

i just bought a house, and i am going to have several big purchases to make.

SO, i will probably be selling the FD, unfortunately, as it will be difficult to hold onto and not worth killing myself :/


the issue i'm having is i'm not sure how much it's worth.
white 94, 99 spec body parts, rebuilt engine, air conditioning, tan interior with all new 94 plastic pieces, wheels, budget coilovers, budget turbo kit (w/ borg warner S360 turbo) haltech with ludwig harness. it can be tracked as-is AND daily-driven comfortably and reliably. i even traded cars for a night with a guy at work who has a GTR because he wanted to drive it (and who would turn down a night of GTR driving?). i work with a lot of people who drive GTRs and this car seems to get more attention. i find it kind of funny, yet i'm proud of it.

there are a lot of FDs for sale right now, but i can't find any other white ones that are comparable. anyone have an idea of what it's worth?

 

$18k

 

I'm wondering, now that you've put more miles on those CXRacing Coilovers, how are they holding up?

Thanks for the budget tip!
Jake

 

hello jake. i also go by jake (well, sometimes).

the CX racing coilovers are doing just fine. no leaks, nothing weird. i have tracked on them twice now and i've had no issues. they are much more forgiving on the street than the 12k/10k Stance coilovers that i had on my red FD.
(these CX racing coilovers are 8k/6k)

 

thanks gordon.

oh, don't worry, i'm not done with this phase oh my life. i just want to make sure i can afford to keep the car.

i just got a new job as well so my income went up. i may be able to hold onto it

 

Thanks for the info. I'll be putting an order in soon then.
Good luck with the home and car balance! I had to set aside my FD for 10 years while my wife and I bought a house, welped some kids, etc. But I kept dragging it around and now I can devote some serious coins and time into it.

 

What will the title of your next build thread be? lol

 

My Fifth FD (last one for sure, I think)