The Intercooler will be polished up once fitting and mounting is figured out, which is why I didn't make a deal of the grind marks. And will go to AN lines eventually for it along with upgraded pump and a reservoir, but for the sake of just getting it running, it's the rubber hoses and bilge pump that were included in the kit. All in all, it is heavier than the FMIC or SMIC, but between removal of water pump housing, ABS, cruise, Brake booster, 15-20 lbs of wire, single turbo, HVAC, power steering, and emissions - it has more than been compensated for.

 

Just received a package from Japan. I know Tommykaira didnt touch the RX7 ever but it's been one of my fav tuning companies. So heres the gorgeous, albeit tiny, shift ****. #34 of 100 made.

 

delivery from McMaster brought some aluminum bar to start mounting the A2W intercooler's heat exchanger.

 

Cool shift ****. In for a2w results.

 

Heat exchanger is mounted! Some aluminum bar and pre existing holes made it fairly easy. Did actually rip the aluminum during some bends which was surprising...but it is aluminum. Left room on the driver side for the hoses and the drain at the bottom doesnt sit below the sway bar.

 

Mounted one 7 inch fan to the pass side of the heat exchanger, room for 2 more but I'll prob just do 1 more - more wiring........
Looking to mount the pump for the kit - it has to be the lowest point of the system so it's going to be close (it only pushes, can't pull), then ducting.
connected starter to alternator with welding cable, put most of the trim back into the trunk
Fuel system complete save for evap line to UIM! (man it felt good to finish something)
I'll be swapping the intercooler I have for a different shape one. I have the "bend" type (L shaped) and will be going to a more typical shaped (in/out opposite sides, long and narrow)

 

Did some wiring today. Making the new fuse and relay box all set up, still needs triggers for relays and the output wires from relays. Looks like some of the relay spots were damaged when I disassembled it but I got most of what I needed out of it.

 

Mounted the gauges!!

Scratched the CF though....damn

 

U pull U pay had a few Mazda6s lying around so I grabbed another fuse box ($17.99 w/mil discount winning!) and I realized that I'm dumb. Instead of gutting it like I did with the previous one, I can just use what on it and slap a connector whammy, just like stock - even matches the fusebox cover diagram, all the relays, so simple. highly recommended for anyone doing a rewire. Can use any cars fusebox, I just went with the Mazda6 for IDK reasons

 

Got the new intercooler and mocking up the piping

 

Mounted the old rear wiper fluid tank in the spot the ABS used to be. I also reversed the intercooler heat exchanger and was able to mount the pump for it. Little by little....

 

Got one coolant hose built and installed (Stainless braid -16AN = impossible, nylon braid = fairly easy). Hot side. Trying to figure out how to mount and run lines for the EWP (cold side) whilst keeping it below the filler cap and out of the way of the alternator belt. It may have to go down by the driver's oil cooler area.
Have to pull the UIM, pretty sure I didn't use any teflon tape on the primary fuel rail's AN fittings, doesn't hurt to be sure.
Laid the carpet in and cut the hole for the shifter, slowly trimming and making holes for other stuff.
Roughly installed battery cables. Couple vacuum lines/vacuum loops on unused IM nipples.
Big trip coming up, bringing car with me to Augusta - should allow to get a lot of work done (especially wiring)

 

Thanks to Aaron Parker for the advice on the EWP. I got it mounted on the drivers frame rail in front of the steering rack and it's all plumbed up.
Dash is back in, and the buckets are too. Buckets will be trimmed to make room for battery and fuse box.
JP3 motorsports A/C and heater block off plate is a nice addition.
Clutch and brakes are bled, Chase Bays kit working well.
C-West headlights look awesome - I'll be retro fitting them with some Morimoto projectors eventually.
Wiring is the big project now.
Have an Aspec 500R Turbo on the way

 

I have completed the Emission harness save for the Wideband O2 wires, which will be included with the ECU when I buy it. Hoping to put it in and connect everything up, then remove and wrap and reinstall!

 

The wrapped new emission harness! All new connectors and wire save for IAT and fuel temp, and the transmission, emission to dash connectors. I also incorporated the wiper and washer connectors into this harness along with their wires into the dash harness instead of them going all the way around the entire nose end (same with coil wires)

 

Lot of work on the Rear and Front harnesses today. I still can't believe how different my Front harness is now. It only wraps around to the Passenger side headlight/signals. There's only about 15 wires going from inside the car to the engine bay in that harness (all the lights, A2W pump and fan, Coolant fans, Horn, and an extra run for foglights). Insane compared to the OEM one. I probably could reduce the number of connectors inside if I used the Joint Box better, but there's always room to improve in the future, it also requires very specific connectors and terminals.....
I have also nearly completed the combined Dash and Instrument harness. I need to get the buttons for the Dash panel.

 

Looks great! Where are you getting your connectors from?

 

Wherever I can find em usually. Amazon has some of them, the 24 pin connector for the fuse box and gauges I got at casperelectronics.com. Unfortunately most of the connector replacements I've had to use (especially for X connectors) were just whatever I could find to have enough pins. Luckily much of the Emission harness is available on Amazon - mostly Sumitomo connectors on Amazon or Mouser. Some like the knock, ethanol sensor, FFE trigger sensor come with their own, but injectors etc are fairly easy. There's a few threads with lists but I'm working on a master part # list. It's tough!

 

I'm adding yet another "future" project to my list and that's to redesign the joint box for rear mounted fuse box. Since I have combined the 3 relay boxes and Fan relays and defog relay into the Mazda6 fusebox, and the removal of CPU 1&2, the Joint box, while still useful, has lost a LOT of its purpose. The Joint Box is a great thing, allowing for power distribution between harnesses without more X connectors, but certain upgrades or modifications change it. There are super expensive alternatives but I'll try to find a more inexpensive solution than a MoTec, since the PLC only runs up to 8A and is more for relays rather than straight power. CPU #1 is attached to the JB btw... pops right off.

Anyone ever crack open the JB to see what's inside? board? wires? kyber crystal?

 

I started a Youtube channel discussing the wiring and other aspects of the build...plus whatever else I throw on there (probably gun stuff). They're my first go at it so not the greatest of production value, but I'd appreciate any views and subscriptions!!
Yes, I need to turn my phone sideways..... duly noted.

 

Nice work, the simplification of the harnesses sounds great, really tempted to give it a try myself when I go single turbo, quite a daunting prospect!

 

I highly suggest you build a second harness alongslide your OEM one, rather than hacking the OEM. Most if the connectors are available.

 

Few more videos posted in the channel, more to come.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSv...nechnVQrDt5ahQ

 

almost complete with plumbing the A2W IC, also finished the lines for dual oil coolers .... all A/N will post pics soon.

 

Well, been a while, but update. I'm moving to upstate NY - Fort Drum. Yet another pace where it will be undriveable for a good portion of the year, and with NY's firearm laws I will be able to concentrate on the RX7 again.

As some may have seen in the IR Performance thread, my turbo kit I ordered has been.....cancelled, to keep it short. When I get to NY I will complete the wiring, and then with 120k miles on the original block, rebuild time (better to rebuild an engine that was working than wait for it to break right?).
Makes sense to ensure it will be able to handle whatever turbo is thrown at it when I finally get one, rather than blow up on tuning.

I'm thinking an aggressive street port or half bridge, studs, and possibly sending the rotating assembly for lightening and balancing. Plus single piece apex seals.