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My 20B-REW FD Build. Need some input from the community!
Logan is doing the Defined Autoworks magic on my Turbo 20b right now, it's getting "The Works" lol. it will be a "tame" 700hp, but can run up to 1150hp with the G40-1150 I'm putting on it. Haltech Elite 2500 , FuelLabs system, Turblown exhaust manifold, coupled to a Custom 3.5" Titanium Turboback ending in a FEED Sonic Ti. R.E Carbon Hood, Seibon CF Doors, Seibon CF Hatch. R.E GT2 High Dry Carbon Wing, FEED GT3 Widebody, Exedy Triple Plate Clutch, Pettit 10lb Flywheel, 18x10.5 Enkei GTC003RRs 255/35 & 295/30's and spare set of 18x10 Advan RS3's. I'm debating a CD006 6spd or a DCT 7spd. Bulletproofed FD Diff with a Kaaz LSD. Car is gonna be dope AF.
Should I get the 2.5m or the 5m Length Haltech Wiring harness?
I am also looking at Fuel Labs 1250hp Surge Kit with a Potentially a 50gal Split Tank that will be where the Spare was.
Thanks!
Are there any other suggestions that you guys can give me?
the G40-1150 is only going to make under 800 whp on a rotary engine. That’s assuming you can achieve it at 2.5 Bar per the compressor map shape. Otherwise it will be less than that, which I suspect it may be on a 20B engine. Because my expectation would be that it will max out at a lower boost level, 2 bar or less maybe. So maybe 650 - 700 whp.
Good call working with Defined Autoworks, I really admire what he's done with his green racecar. I wonder why you think you need 700HP in an FD chassis. Have you driven one with stock 250HP, or a modified FD making 300HP-450HP?
Here are my suggestions:
1. Start with a car that runs well, if you can afford to.
2. Buy very good tires
3. Change the oil every 1000-2000 miles to avoid fuel dilution
4. Replace the coolant every year or two to avoid rust
5. Enjoy driving it and fix what breaks until it's reliable
6. Try not to change too many things at once when modifying
7. Never add more than 50-100HP at a time
Your vision is well beyond my level of expertise or bank account for that matter, but why go with the Pettit flywheel? Maybe there is something I do not know about it, but it is more expensive and heavier than ACT prolite. If you really want the "Ultimate Flywheel," go with the Racing Beat unit.
Logan is doing the Defined Autoworks magic on my Turbo 20b right now, it's getting "The Works" lol. it will be a "tame" 700hp, but can run up to 1150hp with the G40-1150 I'm putting on it. Haltech Elite 2500 , FuelLabs system, Turblown exhaust manifold, coupled to a Custom 3.5" Titanium Turboback ending in a FEED Sonic Ti. R.E Carbon Hood, Seibon CF Doors, Seibon CF Hatch. R.E GT2 High Dry Carbon Wing, FEED GT3 Widebody, Exedy Triple Plate Clutch, Pettit 10lb Flywheel, 18x10.5 Enkei GTC003RRs 255/35 & 295/30's and spare set of 18x10 Advan RS3's. I'm debating a CD006 6spd or a DCT 7spd. Bulletproofed FD Diff with a Kaaz LSD. Car is gonna be dope AF.
Should I get the 2.5m or the 5m Length Haltech Wiring harness?
I am also looking at Fuel Labs 1250hp Surge Kit with a Potentially a 50gal Split Tank that will be where the Spare was.
Thanks!
Are there any other suggestions that you guys can give me?
I know this is an old thread, but figure I'd offer some advice anyways.
The 700hp you're trying to achieve, is that wheel or crank? The G40 won't be able to reach 1150hp on a rotary unfortunately due to the characteristics of the rotary motor.
The flywheel won't work with a cd009/A transmission. Most kits require a different flywheel that works with 370z clutch.
You might run into some back pressure issues if you run 3.5 exhaust with that turbo combo.
The harness length depends on how you're routing the harness.
The factory differential will have issues with the torque that a 700hp 3 rotor produces, you should probably start looking at 8.8 kits to have piece of mind (ronin kit).
03-27-22, 01:31 PM
