Mannykillers/ AAPARKAH Street/time Attack/Drift Build (heavy Pics) #Thisisthewolf
#1554
I don't know really... could be the exhaust mani, could be the intake manifold, or could even be the motor. Motor is less likely..But still could be... it's got to be a set up problem.. Just need to find it and fix it. Could be a little of all three really.. my innovate tc-4 is on the way and I'll be able to log egt's to get a better look at them. Then we'll have a little better of an idea of what's going on
#1555
just dont care.
iTrader: (6)
sweet video!
just for reference, my setup made 320whp @ 11 psi @ 6000rpm (uncontrollable boost and shooting up to fuel cut above 6000rpm) on a dyno dynamics heartbreaker. it may have been 340-330 if we could have tuned with stable boost at 11psi.
setup is: precision 6262 (slightly smaller compressor wheel, slightly bigger turbine wheel) .84 turbine housing, haltech ps1k, turblown manifold (single wastegate at the time, now running dual), LS1 coils, rx7store vmic, full 3" exhaust with resonated midpipe, pineapple templates street port.
can you post what advance and split (and AFRs) you all were running for these pulls?
just for reference, my setup made 320whp @ 11 psi @ 6000rpm (uncontrollable boost and shooting up to fuel cut above 6000rpm) on a dyno dynamics heartbreaker. it may have been 340-330 if we could have tuned with stable boost at 11psi.
setup is: precision 6262 (slightly smaller compressor wheel, slightly bigger turbine wheel) .84 turbine housing, haltech ps1k, turblown manifold (single wastegate at the time, now running dual), LS1 coils, rx7store vmic, full 3" exhaust with resonated midpipe, pineapple templates street port.
can you post what advance and split (and AFRs) you all were running for these pulls?
#1557
Junior Member
mmm where do you start I mean everything is new and Ive follow you like a religion. Do you think the restriction is physical or electronic eg. coils breaking down
#1560
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (12)
Probably a long shot, but is it a fuel issue? Does your fuel pressure, afr, injectors, and duty cycle look good? I had a bad electrical cnnection on my secondary injectors that made my car lose a lot of top end power and wasn't obvious at all to track down. That boost level, and those rpms are right where you need strong secondaries flowing well...
#1562
Simply put....it just doesn't fit the application of what I want to do with the car. More updates soon guys, just been busy working on the car, and getting to the bottom of this problem. I'll cover a whole list of things and answer everyone's questions, suggestions soon.Thanks guys!
#1563
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
I'm thinking that manifold works well from 7000 to 10000 rpm, not exactly what most of us are looking for...... correct me if I'm wrong Aaron.
Also, as one more comparison/data point many years ago I made an honest 350 rwhp at .8 bar (12 psi) on non-sequential BNR Stage 3 twins. There definitely is a lot more power waiting to be freed up. Good luck, hope some light is shed sooner rather than later
Also, as one more comparison/data point many years ago I made an honest 350 rwhp at .8 bar (12 psi) on non-sequential BNR Stage 3 twins. There definitely is a lot more power waiting to be freed up. Good luck, hope some light is shed sooner rather than later
#1564
Probably a long shot, but is it a fuel issue? Does your fuel pressure, afr, injectors, and duty cycle look good? I had a bad electrical cnnection on my secondary injectors that made my car lose a lot of top end power and wasn't obvious at all to track down. That boost level, and those rpms are right where you need strong secondaries flowing well...
I'm thinking that manifold works well from 7000 to 10000 rpm, not exactly what most of us are looking for...... correct me if I'm wrong Aaron.
Also, as one more comparison/data point many years ago I made an honest 350 rwhp at .8 bar (12 psi) on non-sequential BNR Stage 3 twins. There definitely is a lot more power waiting to be freed up. Good luck, hope some light is shed sooner rather than later
Also, as one more comparison/data point many years ago I made an honest 350 rwhp at .8 bar (12 psi) on non-sequential BNR Stage 3 twins. There definitely is a lot more power waiting to be freed up. Good luck, hope some light is shed sooner rather than later
#1566
Wastegate John
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Long Island NY 11746
Posts: 2,979
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Aaron, why not throw a stock UIM on and make some quick cold side ic piping to see if that makes any difference in power output before you spend money on yet another custom manifold?
#1567
FD Project
iTrader: (58)
I don't think is neither a drag or high rpm manifold, most high rpm drag cars use short runner manifold combination, Don't know what your power goals are but like ResenisFD said try a stock intake system to see if that changes anything as there are plenty of cars making good power on stock manifolds.
#1568
Built Not Bought
iTrader: (14)
I would test a stock one just to be sure and then move on if the problem is elsewhere.
#1570
Small Update:
I was sitting in the garage last night....just kinda staring at the car....trying to justify taking it out after 9:45 pm ....haha and I remembered I had already cut all the pieces for my I/C duct. So I put away my thoughts of burnouts and flames from the W/g's and got to work. This time around I Placed each individual piece where it needed to be on the I/C before I rivited it on. With the Radiator duct... I had to re-do the bottom section because there was a quarter inch gap all the way across. So this time I measured...placed on the I/C, Clamped THEN rivited.
Here are some process pics:
Side clearance before door molding
Bottom sheet measured and taped for mocking
Drivers side measured and rivited....fits awesome!
More clearance... This one fits even better than the Radiator duct.
as you can see.. I made the top part of the duct......pretty much wrap around the top flat section of the I/C so that it clamps the underside... if that makes sense. This way I would only Need one solid mount on the bottom half of the duct to keep it secure.
Here is a picture of the intake tract... The radiator duct is getting smashed by the damn god aweful Relay box that I'm trying to conjure up enough motivation to relocate haha. But i'm going to find a Nice Long threaded bolt that will connect the two ducts and help keep them sturdy at speed. I'm also going to make 4 more bends to the leading most edge's both top and bottom to help with rigidity....and lastly trip off the excess so that they all sit nice and straight....or flush with each other. But I really like the way it came out. I'll add some weather stripping/door molding so that it sits even more flush and get some metal exhaust tape on there to make it even more air tight.....and call it done!
I was sitting in the garage last night....just kinda staring at the car....trying to justify taking it out after 9:45 pm ....haha and I remembered I had already cut all the pieces for my I/C duct. So I put away my thoughts of burnouts and flames from the W/g's and got to work. This time around I Placed each individual piece where it needed to be on the I/C before I rivited it on. With the Radiator duct... I had to re-do the bottom section because there was a quarter inch gap all the way across. So this time I measured...placed on the I/C, Clamped THEN rivited.
Here are some process pics:
Side clearance before door molding
Bottom sheet measured and taped for mocking
Drivers side measured and rivited....fits awesome!
More clearance... This one fits even better than the Radiator duct.
as you can see.. I made the top part of the duct......pretty much wrap around the top flat section of the I/C so that it clamps the underside... if that makes sense. This way I would only Need one solid mount on the bottom half of the duct to keep it secure.
Here is a picture of the intake tract... The radiator duct is getting smashed by the damn god aweful Relay box that I'm trying to conjure up enough motivation to relocate haha. But i'm going to find a Nice Long threaded bolt that will connect the two ducts and help keep them sturdy at speed. I'm also going to make 4 more bends to the leading most edge's both top and bottom to help with rigidity....and lastly trip off the excess so that they all sit nice and straight....or flush with each other. But I really like the way it came out. I'll add some weather stripping/door molding so that it sits even more flush and get some metal exhaust tape on there to make it even more air tight.....and call it done!
#1573
Small update:
Radiator ducting and Intercooler Ducting is finished! I may or may not add the Weather stripping to the I/C duct... It fits so well I'm not sure it needs it. I forgot to take pics but it now mounts simply with 2 bolts that connect it to the Radiator duct...and it is VERY solid. Tested it up to 90mph and it didn't budge.
Looks mean as hell too..
Also started doing a real alignment last night... if it doesn't drive straight after this.... I'm just taking it to a shop haha. But I spent a couple hours on just setting it up last night..hopefully today I can finish it. we'll see!
More to come.. Stay Tuned!
Radiator ducting and Intercooler Ducting is finished! I may or may not add the Weather stripping to the I/C duct... It fits so well I'm not sure it needs it. I forgot to take pics but it now mounts simply with 2 bolts that connect it to the Radiator duct...and it is VERY solid. Tested it up to 90mph and it didn't budge.
Looks mean as hell too..
Also started doing a real alignment last night... if it doesn't drive straight after this.... I'm just taking it to a shop haha. But I spent a couple hours on just setting it up last night..hopefully today I can finish it. we'll see!
More to come.. Stay Tuned!