Vid not working

 

This one maybe?

http://static.photobucket.com/player...ps58588ad1.mp4

 

That sucks, any idea what could be the restriction? Do you think it is on the intake or exhaust side?

What were the egt's when making the .8bar run?

 

I don't know really... could be the exhaust mani, could be the intake manifold, or could even be the motor. Motor is less likely..But still could be... it's got to be a set up problem.. Just need to find it and fix it. Could be a little of all three really.. my innovate tc-4 is on the way and I'll be able to log egt's to get a better look at them. Then we'll have a little better of an idea of what's going on

 

sweet video!
just for reference, my setup made 320whp @ 11 psi @ 6000rpm (uncontrollable boost and shooting up to fuel cut above 6000rpm) on a dyno dynamics heartbreaker. it may have been 340-330 if we could have tuned with stable boost at 11psi.
setup is: precision 6262 (slightly smaller compressor wheel, slightly bigger turbine wheel) .84 turbine housing, haltech ps1k, turblown manifold (single wastegate at the time, now running dual), LS1 coils, rx7store vmic, full 3" exhaust with resonated midpipe, pineapple templates street port.

can you post what advance and split (and AFRs) you all were running for these pulls?

 

With this motor, turbo and general set up....I should be at 360-375whp at .8 bar no problem. There's a definite flow restriction...and I'll find it and fix it.

 

mmm where do you start I mean everything is new and Ive follow you like a religion. Do you think the restriction is physical or electronic eg. coils breaking down

 

Check to make sure that you have spark on both the leading and trailing plugs. Any chance you could have left a shop rag lodged somewhere in the exhaust path?

 

Can't see why you will have flow restriction at such of low boost level, like RCCAZ 1 said, make sure you didn't left any shop towels left behind on the piping.

 

Probably a long shot, but is it a fuel issue? Does your fuel pressure, afr, injectors, and duty cycle look good? I had a bad electrical cnnection on my secondary injectors that made my car lose a lot of top end power and wasn't obvious at all to track down. That boost level, and those rpms are right where you need strong secondaries flowing well...

 

Why are you selling the intake?

 

Simply put....it just doesn't fit the application of what I want to do with the car. More updates soon guys, just been busy working on the car, and getting to the bottom of this problem. I'll cover a whole list of things and answer everyone's questions, suggestions soon.Thanks guys!

 

I'm thinking that manifold works well from 7000 to 10000 rpm, not exactly what most of us are looking for...... correct me if I'm wrong Aaron.

Also, as one more comparison/data point many years ago I made an honest 350 rwhp at .8 bar (12 psi) on non-sequential BNR Stage 3 twins. There definitely is a lot more power waiting to be freed up. Good luck, hope some light is shed sooner rather than later

 

Well truthfully I think the restriction is a combination of a few things...

Thanks G.... going to try and finish the Intercooler duct today or tomorrow!! but It came out great....and man it really keeps things cool when I'm moving....even in the 95F + dry desert heat out here!!

Ignition is working excellent... I checked my whole charge track..and there is nothing left behind... But that was my initial thought... like... Maybe I left this or that in here haha..but I really think i'm much to careful for that.. but when stuff like this happens.. you start second guessing your self haha.

I thought the same thing..but our motors are soooo finicky when it comes to messing with intake systems.. runner size, diameter, length..plenum size.. and like rich stated.. this manifold is definitely not for my application. A few people have stated it is in fact a drag manifold.

Well we checked fuel... but my Fuel Pressure is set...holds steady on idle no prob.. and also raises to 60psi and holds solid on pulls all the way through the RPM band. But i'll double check all my connections...

You are Correct...and I just won't be spinning the motor that high... But my new manifold will definitely be geared for my application and I'm excited to get it going. It may not be as pretty..but it'll definitely put the power where I want it.

 

Can't wait for you to get it all squared away

 

Aaron, why not throw a stock UIM on and make some quick cold side ic piping to see if that makes any difference in power output before you spend money on yet another custom manifold?

 

I don't think is neither a drag or high rpm manifold, most high rpm drag cars use short runner manifold combination, Don't know what your power goals are but like ResenisFD said try a stock intake system to see if that changes anything as there are plenty of cars making good power on stock manifolds.

 

This sounds like a good idea. I find it hard to believe that the manifold is robbing you of that much power. It's pretty free flowing and is a typical looking manifold for straight 6 engines, not sure how it would be good for them and hurt a rotary.

I would test a stock one just to be sure and then move on if the problem is elsewhere.

 

I already have an oem manifold on the way..still need a oem throttle body fulcrum though..or a full throttle body. Funny how I've had 3 uim's sitting in my garage for who knows how long..and last week I ended up selling all of them and a throttle body.

 

Small Update:

I was sitting in the garage last night....just kinda staring at the car....trying to justify taking it out after 9:45 pm ....haha and I remembered I had already cut all the pieces for my I/C duct. So I put away my thoughts of burnouts and flames from the W/g's and got to work. This time around I Placed each individual piece where it needed to be on the I/C before I rivited it on. With the Radiator duct... I had to re-do the bottom section because there was a quarter inch gap all the way across. So this time I measured...placed on the I/C, Clamped THEN rivited.
Here are some process pics:
Side clearance before door molding

Bottom sheet measured and taped for mocking

Drivers side measured and rivited....fits awesome!

More clearance... This one fits even better than the Radiator duct.

as you can see.. I made the top part of the duct......pretty much wrap around the top flat section of the I/C so that it clamps the underside... if that makes sense. This way I would only Need one solid mount on the bottom half of the duct to keep it secure.

Here is a picture of the intake tract... The radiator duct is getting smashed by the damn god aweful Relay box that I'm trying to conjure up enough motivation to relocate haha. But i'm going to find a Nice Long threaded bolt that will connect the two ducts and help keep them sturdy at speed. I'm also going to make 4 more bends to the leading most edge's both top and bottom to help with rigidity....and lastly trip off the excess so that they all sit nice and straight....or flush with each other. But I really like the way it came out. I'll add some weather stripping/door molding so that it sits even more flush and get some metal exhaust tape on there to make it even more air tight.....and call it done!

 

Great ducting!

 

Ducting looks awesome dude!

Will be referencing your work when I do mine.

 

Small update:

Radiator ducting and Intercooler Ducting is finished! I may or may not add the Weather stripping to the I/C duct... It fits so well I'm not sure it needs it. I forgot to take pics but it now mounts simply with 2 bolts that connect it to the Radiator duct...and it is VERY solid. Tested it up to 90mph and it didn't budge.

Looks mean as hell too..



Also started doing a real alignment last night... if it doesn't drive straight after this.... I'm just taking it to a shop haha. But I spent a couple hours on just setting it up last night..hopefully today I can finish it. we'll see!




More to come.. Stay Tuned!

 

I hope you are not aligning the car with it jacked up like that.

 

I was thinking the same thing when you texted me last night, Aaron. You should have the wheels on the ground with the weight of the car compressing the suspension. Aligning it in the air like that will not do anything but make it worse.