Mannykillers/ AAPARKAH Street/time Attack/Drift Build (heavy Pics) #Thisisthewolf
The following users liked this post:
cleanseven (08-07-19)
The following users liked this post:
cleanseven (08-07-19)
10-04-11, 07:49 PM
#406
yeah, your build thread is inspiring. i just want to paint everything now, haha. but seriously, i hope i have the patience you have when i assemble mine.
I can't take full credit, but i'm also glad they finally buckled:
https://www.rx7club.com/comments-suggestions-archive-222/suggestion-build-threads-section-s-944555/
https://www.rx7club.com/comments-suggestions-archive-222/suggestion-build-threads-section-s-944555/
10-06-11, 01:03 AM
#408
I need to do the same on my FC. I have the charging section unwrapped, but the part that splits to the headlights is still all crusty.
I installed a Haltech so I'm sure there's a bunch of wiring that's just taking up space, I just need to trace crap and tackle it. I was trying to get it done with it in the engine bay so I dont have to remove the dash but it might look like I have to remove it...
I installed a Haltech so I'm sure there's a bunch of wiring that's just taking up space, I just need to trace crap and tackle it. I was trying to get it done with it in the engine bay so I dont have to remove the dash but it might look like I have to remove it...
10-07-11, 02:17 PM
#409
^ anything on your engine harness you don't need to remove the dash... Same with the entire loop harness that goes around the front of the car... but the body harness that runs behind the dash.... yeapppppp gotta pull the dash. LAME!
Anyways a little update....
I practically finished my lower intake manifold. Just waiting to order my injector collars and then i'll go ahead and put my i.d.'s in there. Heat shielding complete! Looks awesome too! ...it's just a pain to get to look good.
and the second layer-o-gold.. haha..
Then as i said earlier on... I picked up another waste gate. Now I measured the piston and it looks to be at around 44-45MM... SO i'm almost positive I have 2 Synapse 44mm wastegates... not 50 mm. If anyone has any input on this please let me know.. The outlet's are 50mm but I figured they'd go off of the piston size rather than the inlet from the turbo and outlet to exhaust/atmosphere..
But either way.. I'm using them both
SOOOO I rebuild both of them.. just took pictures of one of them though.. my old gate.. which is the silver one.. had an abrasion marks on the inside Top hat of wastegate. The piston soft seal looks like it's perfectly fine..but I went ahead and took my dremel to it, first smoothing out the rough edge of the rub mark...then finally polishing the whole area so that the ring would slide over the area as it does the rest of the top hat. Over-all...it feels very smooth to touch and I don't think it'll be a problem. Last thing you want is for your waste gate to get stuck
here's some pics of the process:
this is where there are two allen keys per hole
all parts thoroughly cleaned and ready for assembly
and i forgot to take pics of the mark on the inside of the WG top hat..sorry guys haha. Maybe if I change springs i'll try to remember to snap a couple.
and I'll take a couple pics of the finished waste-gates.
P.s. for anyone rebuilding these synapse wastegates... remember there are six...not three allen keys that hold in the piston. They layer one top of each-other. there are two keys per hole. I used the one and only Super Copper on the keys
....<--lovin it
Anyways a little update....
I practically finished my lower intake manifold. Just waiting to order my injector collars and then i'll go ahead and put my i.d.'s in there. Heat shielding complete! Looks awesome too! ...it's just a pain to get to look good.
and the second layer-o-gold.. haha..
Then as i said earlier on... I picked up another waste gate. Now I measured the piston and it looks to be at around 44-45MM... SO i'm almost positive I have 2 Synapse 44mm wastegates... not 50 mm. If anyone has any input on this please let me know.. The outlet's are 50mm but I figured they'd go off of the piston size rather than the inlet from the turbo and outlet to exhaust/atmosphere..
But either way.. I'm using them both
SOOOO I rebuild both of them.. just took pictures of one of them though.. my old gate.. which is the silver one.. had an abrasion marks on the inside Top hat of wastegate. The piston soft seal looks like it's perfectly fine..but I went ahead and took my dremel to it, first smoothing out the rough edge of the rub mark...then finally polishing the whole area so that the ring would slide over the area as it does the rest of the top hat. Over-all...it feels very smooth to touch and I don't think it'll be a problem. Last thing you want is for your waste gate to get stuck
here's some pics of the process:
this is where there are two allen keys per hole
all parts thoroughly cleaned and ready for assembly
and i forgot to take pics of the mark on the inside of the WG top hat..sorry guys haha. Maybe if I change springs i'll try to remember to snap a couple.
and I'll take a couple pics of the finished waste-gates.
P.s. for anyone rebuilding these synapse wastegates... remember there are six...not three allen keys that hold in the piston. They layer one top of each-other. there are two keys per hole. I used the one and only Super Copper on the keys
....<--lovin it
10-08-11, 04:37 PM
#410
well... not much of an update.. but thanks to a fellow forum member I figured out what I was going to do with my interior.. I wanted to stay away from painting interior trim/dash components because there just never seems to be a good enough quality paint that holds up to the abuse. what usually happens is you end up having gross cheap looking "ricy" interior with scratches all over it. 3M DINOC Carbon Fiber Vinyl is the option i went with and let me tell you... I am thoroghly impressed with the ease of use and also durability of the stuff. Took me 3 hours to complete the following. Just taking my time. Pics are in a progression. Cleaned all the parts with alcohol and made sure there was no dust on them. Then heated the pieces cut them and went at it.
10-10-11, 03:22 PM
#419
Thanks a lot guys, And lane.. i would've ended up sanding everything and going with some messy paint that would've ended up chipping if I didn't come across your thread. I tried to keep the lines..lined up and messed up a little but i'm really happy with how it came out.
But yes... i'm going to do everything that was Plastic (black) in the 3M DINOC CF vinyl wrap. This stuff is wonderful. Wipes clean easily, and won't chip or scratch like even the best paints. Beats paying someone to wrap them in any nice leather as well.
But yes... i'm going to do everything that was Plastic (black) in the 3M DINOC CF vinyl wrap. This stuff is wonderful. Wipes clean easily, and won't chip or scratch like even the best paints. Beats paying someone to wrap them in any nice leather as well.
10-12-11, 04:35 PM
#423
Wastegate John
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Long Island NY 11746
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What about os giken? I thought there was one for sale in the 3rd gen section
.
FWIW, I am very happy with my Exedy twin disc I have the one with the carbon clutch discs and unsprung hub.
John
.FWIW, I am very happy with my Exedy twin disc I have the one with the carbon clutch discs and unsprung hub.
John
10-12-11, 08:30 PM
#424
-so
10-12-11, 08:37 PM
#425
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
The stock flywheel doesn't improve low-end torque, it just gives you an easier launch off the line. The heavier flywheel stores more potential energy.
Really, if you've driven a car with a 5-speed for more than a month, you'll have no problems with a light flywheel. It will actually IMPROVE response as you aren't accelerating a boat anchor when you rev the engine.
Go as light as you can, get in the 9lb range. You'll be VERY happy you did.
Believe me, I'm all about low-end grunt and driveability. I'm all about sequential twins and a fat powerband. A heavy flywheel is helping you out zero there.
Dale
Really, if you've driven a car with a 5-speed for more than a month, you'll have no problems with a light flywheel. It will actually IMPROVE response as you aren't accelerating a boat anchor when you rev the engine.
Go as light as you can, get in the 9lb range. You'll be VERY happy you did.
Believe me, I'm all about low-end grunt and driveability. I'm all about sequential twins and a fat powerband. A heavy flywheel is helping you out zero there.
Dale