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Mannykillers/ AAPARKAH Street/time Attack/Drift Build (heavy Pics) #Thisisthewolf

Old Oct 3, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #401  
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nice
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 08:06 PM
  #402  
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this thread has motivated me. seriously as soon as i log off im gonna go work on my car lol.
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 10:41 PM
  #403  
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^ Hell yea... I fee like this is what build threads are for haha.

p.s...whoever made the 3rd gen build thread section was a Genius
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 11:17 PM
  #404  
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word because of your motivational abilities i fixed my fuel issue in less than two hours haha.
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #405  
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How was redoing the drive side harness?
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 07:49 PM
  #406  
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yeah, your build thread is inspiring. i just want to paint everything now, haha. but seriously, i hope i have the patience you have when i assemble mine.

Originally Posted by mannykiller
^ Hell yea... I fee like this is what build threads are for haha.

p.s...whoever made the 3rd gen build thread section was a Genius
I can't take full credit, but i'm also glad they finally buckled:

https://www.rx7club.com/comments-suggestions-archive-222/suggestion-build-threads-section-s-944555/
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:49 AM
  #407  
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Originally Posted by jaggermouth
How was redoing the drive side harness?
....i havnt been able to get myself to sit down and tackle it... But I'll let you know when the time comes haha
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 01:03 AM
  #408  
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I need to do the same on my FC. I have the charging section unwrapped, but the part that splits to the headlights is still all crusty.
I installed a Haltech so I'm sure there's a bunch of wiring that's just taking up space, I just need to trace crap and tackle it. I was trying to get it done with it in the engine bay so I dont have to remove the dash but it might look like I have to remove it...
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 02:17 PM
  #409  
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^ anything on your engine harness you don't need to remove the dash... Same with the entire loop harness that goes around the front of the car... but the body harness that runs behind the dash.... yeapppppp gotta pull the dash. LAME!

Anyways a little update....
I practically finished my lower intake manifold. Just waiting to order my injector collars and then i'll go ahead and put my i.d.'s in there. Heat shielding complete! Looks awesome too! ...it's just a pain to get to look good.



and the second layer-o-gold.. haha..




Then as i said earlier on... I picked up another waste gate. Now I measured the piston and it looks to be at around 44-45MM... SO i'm almost positive I have 2 Synapse 44mm wastegates... not 50 mm. If anyone has any input on this please let me know.. The outlet's are 50mm but I figured they'd go off of the piston size rather than the inlet from the turbo and outlet to exhaust/atmosphere..

But either way.. I'm using them both

SOOOO I rebuild both of them.. just took pictures of one of them though.. my old gate.. which is the silver one.. had an abrasion marks on the inside Top hat of wastegate. The piston soft seal looks like it's perfectly fine..but I went ahead and took my dremel to it, first smoothing out the rough edge of the rub mark...then finally polishing the whole area so that the ring would slide over the area as it does the rest of the top hat. Over-all...it feels very smooth to touch and I don't think it'll be a problem. Last thing you want is for your waste gate to get stuck
here's some pics of the process:



this is where there are two allen keys per hole

all parts thoroughly cleaned and ready for assembly


and i forgot to take pics of the mark on the inside of the WG top hat..sorry guys haha. Maybe if I change springs i'll try to remember to snap a couple.
and I'll take a couple pics of the finished waste-gates.

P.s. for anyone rebuilding these synapse wastegates... remember there are six...not three allen keys that hold in the piston. They layer one top of each-other. there are two keys per hole. I used the one and only Super Copper on the keys ....<--lovin it
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #410  
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well... not much of an update.. but thanks to a fellow forum member I figured out what I was going to do with my interior.. I wanted to stay away from painting interior trim/dash components because there just never seems to be a good enough quality paint that holds up to the abuse. what usually happens is you end up having gross cheap looking "ricy" interior with scratches all over it. 3M DINOC Carbon Fiber Vinyl is the option i went with and let me tell you... I am thoroghly impressed with the ease of use and also durability of the stuff. Took me 3 hours to complete the following. Just taking my time. Pics are in a progression. Cleaned all the parts with alcohol and made sure there was no dust on them. Then heated the pieces cut them and went at it.





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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #411  
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few more of it completed /process






Overall I'm psyched it came out so well!!! what do you guys think?!
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:58 PM
  #412  
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dennng, that looks pretty legit !
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 06:14 PM
  #413  
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Manifold looks great as does your interior parts....should done digital camo hahaha
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #414  
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That CF overlay came out really good!! So you're going to do all the interior plastics in that? Can't wait to see the outcome!
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 07:32 PM
  #415  
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excellent work, beautiful car.. Hard work always pays off.. diggin the control arms
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 08:06 AM
  #416  
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you blow my mind. looks fantastic.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 09:09 AM
  #417  
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The wrap looks very good. Like how you spent the time to line up the "weave" pattern on all of the parts in the center console.


John
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 03:12 PM
  #418  
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Nice work with the DiNOC Aaron
Keep up the good work

Lane
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 03:22 PM
  #419  
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Thanks a lot guys, And lane.. i would've ended up sanding everything and going with some messy paint that would've ended up chipping if I didn't come across your thread. I tried to keep the lines..lined up and messed up a little but i'm really happy with how it came out.

But yes... i'm going to do everything that was Plastic (black) in the 3M DINOC CF vinyl wrap. This stuff is wonderful. Wipes clean easily, and won't chip or scratch like even the best paints. Beats paying someone to wrap them in any nice leather as well.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #420  
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Next big part.. Exedy Twin Disc.. or HKS twin disc... anyone know of anything used? please shoot options my way!! thanks much!

- ap
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #421  
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Such an impressive build thread! Your attention to detail is fantastic!
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 04:02 PM
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Looking good.. awesome work.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 04:35 PM
  #423  
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What about os giken? I thought there was one for sale in the 3rd gen section.

FWIW, I am very happy with my Exedy twin disc I have the one with the carbon clutch discs and unsprung hub.




John
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 08:30 PM
  #424  
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Originally Posted by RENESISFD
What about os giken? I thought there was one for sale in the 3rd gen section.

FWIW, I am very happy with my Exedy twin disc I have the one with the carbon clutch discs and unsprung hub.
John
You know I looked into them but kept getting mixed reviews. Only bad review I've heard of with the exedy was because of an improper install. Id rather go with something tried and true in this category. as far as a flywheel though... I'm considering sticking with oem to keep my torque curve as hefty as possible..... Although I'm open to opinions.

-so
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 08:37 PM
  #425  
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The stock flywheel doesn't improve low-end torque, it just gives you an easier launch off the line. The heavier flywheel stores more potential energy.

Really, if you've driven a car with a 5-speed for more than a month, you'll have no problems with a light flywheel. It will actually IMPROVE response as you aren't accelerating a boat anchor when you rev the engine.

Go as light as you can, get in the 9lb range. You'll be VERY happy you did.

Believe me, I'm all about low-end grunt and driveability. I'm all about sequential twins and a fat powerband. A heavy flywheel is helping you out zero there.

Dale
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