View Poll Results: which port do you think I should use?
Voters: 50. You may not vote on this poll
Let the Fun Begin...Rebuild Time!
12-22-11, 10:44 AM
#1
Let the Fun Begin...Rebuild Time!
Time to rebuild !
After a week and a half of non stop research on porting and rebuilding, and watching several videos I feel confident that this should be an easier rebuild then most piston motors that I have rebuilt.
After about an hour and a half the motor and trans was pulled and brought back to my engine rebuild room. I will start the tare down after x mas as I am traveling for the holidays.
Here are a few pics, I will be adding more as time goes on. I will also be adding video of tare down and rebuild and some porting videos when the time comes.
Aaron Cake has influenced me on this and also motivated me to do this as well. His write up was very well done.
I will also be finishing up the custom headlights, engine harness simplification, clean up and dress up of engine bay.
After a week and a half of non stop research on porting and rebuilding, and watching several videos I feel confident that this should be an easier rebuild then most piston motors that I have rebuilt.
After about an hour and a half the motor and trans was pulled and brought back to my engine rebuild room. I will start the tare down after x mas as I am traveling for the holidays.
Here are a few pics, I will be adding more as time goes on. I will also be adding video of tare down and rebuild and some porting videos when the time comes.
Aaron Cake has influenced me on this and also motivated me to do this as well. His write up was very well done.
I will also be finishing up the custom headlights, engine harness simplification, clean up and dress up of engine bay.
12-24-11, 11:31 PM
#3
Good luck..
As far as the poll goes, not sure on your power and driveability goals. In general, a big streetport with a nice size turbo gets it done no matter the application, so I voted as such. With modern turbo's, AI, and quality tuning, I don't see that bridges are even needed for an enthusiast application anymore. If you are road racing or have a specific setup, then it may be more appropriate.
As far as the poll goes, not sure on your power and driveability goals. In general, a big streetport with a nice size turbo gets it done no matter the application, so I voted as such. With modern turbo's, AI, and quality tuning, I don't see that bridges are even needed for an enthusiast application anymore. If you are road racing or have a specific setup, then it may be more appropriate.
12-26-11, 12:06 PM
#4
well honestly I really want that brap brap. I figure if im going to rebuild it I might as well do it they way I want Im just byast and the port. Right now I just have a mild street port from Rotary Performance.
Im sure Im going to be needing new irons sence Im sure I threw a side seal boosting in cold weather with a summer tune but hopefully Im lucky and the irons wont be tore up to bad. If they are in good shape then I will just go with a big street port and ai. I have plans for gt35r and the rotary performance upgraded fuel set up also the rp upgraded ignition set up come tax time.
I will be starting the tare down on the 28th and will be recording using my handy dandy flip video cam and will post them on youtube
Im sure Im going to be needing new irons sence Im sure I threw a side seal boosting in cold weather with a summer tune but hopefully Im lucky and the irons wont be tore up to bad. If they are in good shape then I will just go with a big street port and ai. I have plans for gt35r and the rotary performance upgraded fuel set up also the rp upgraded ignition set up come tax time.
I will be starting the tare down on the 28th and will be recording using my handy dandy flip video cam and will post them on youtube
12-28-11, 07:04 AM
#5
well honestly I really want that brap brap. I figure if im going to rebuild it I might as well do it they way I want Im just byast and the port. Right now I just have a mild street port from Rotary Performance.
Im sure Im going to be needing new irons sence Im sure I threw a side seal boosting in cold weather with a summer tune but hopefully Im lucky and the irons wont be tore up to bad. If they are in good shape then I will just go with a big street port and ai. I have plans for gt35r and the rotary performance upgraded fuel set up also the rp upgraded ignition set up come tax time.
I will be starting the tare down on the 28th and will be recording using my handy dandy flip video cam and will post them on youtube
Im sure Im going to be needing new irons sence Im sure I threw a side seal boosting in cold weather with a summer tune but hopefully Im lucky and the irons wont be tore up to bad. If they are in good shape then I will just go with a big street port and ai. I have plans for gt35r and the rotary performance upgraded fuel set up also the rp upgraded ignition set up come tax time.
I will be starting the tare down on the 28th and will be recording using my handy dandy flip video cam and will post them on youtube
12-28-11, 08:29 PM
#7
well apparently my flip doesnt work with this computer so i cant upload the videos that I took today
but I will be uploading them Fryday when I get home to Sioux Falls SD on my wifes computer.
all in all everything went farely smooth other then not having the spicific bracket for the engine stand.
As far as the ports go from what I have noticed looking through the exhaust ports from the outside the exhaust does not seem to be ported at all, but the intake just has the runners beveled not really ported. From talking with Chris at RP he is almost sure that it is a cracked apex seal and that it more than likley did not ruin anything that it was a 2mm apex motor and there shouldnt be any real damage.
Fingers Crossed!
but I will be uploading them Fryday when I get home to Sioux Falls SD on my wifes computer.
all in all everything went farely smooth other then not having the spicific bracket for the engine stand.
As far as the ports go from what I have noticed looking through the exhaust ports from the outside the exhaust does not seem to be ported at all, but the intake just has the runners beveled not really ported. From talking with Chris at RP he is almost sure that it is a cracked apex seal and that it more than likley did not ruin anything that it was a 2mm apex motor and there shouldnt be any real damage.
Fingers Crossed!
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12-28-11, 09:03 PM
#8
Im betting your irons are fine. It is likely a housing that is damaged. Take my opinion for what its worth... keep the mild port. Car becomes annoying to drive with large street ports or bridge ports. You may think it sounds cool but I personally wouldnt give up the driveability just to hear that annoying exhaust note. The ports you have already are more than a 35R can outperform.
Our shop car has a bridge, good thing I only drive it once a month..
I miss the old streetport/TD61 combo...
01-07-12, 07:36 PM
#10
well all dissassembled
well for some reason or another I cannot get my vids to upload and will get them up as soon as I figure out what the deal is, but for now here is a few pics.
Just to explain how it all went. Well as you can see I marked all my tension bolts per the fsm torque sequence. It is always a good idea to loosen them up the opposite way that you tightened them up, thus not creating added tension to any particular part of the motor as you are loosing the bolts
Then with a rubber mallet you can tap loose anything still stuck from sealent.
Be careful as you are removing each iron and housing, everything sticks from the oil and then falls off once its apart making it hard to keep track of what seals come from which side of the rotor
As you remove each iron and housing inspect for any cracks or damages
once everything is inspected you should easily find any kind of damage if there is any
If you have never taken one of these motors appart you will be in awe at how small everything really is and how amazing it is to get as much power out of something so small.
as for the reason my motor went, well, it had two cracked apex seals on the front rotor, which scored the front housing really bad both the rotor and housing are beond repair.
I am waiting word from rotary performance on my options as this motor was still under warranty.
To my suprise the exhaust side had a bit of a port done to it but the intake did not really have any kind of porting just smoothened runners as you can kind of see from the pics so Im thinking street port and I will be opening up the exhaust a bit more.
frusturated but motivated to get this thing done at this point
I will keep everyone posted on progress
Just to explain how it all went. Well as you can see I marked all my tension bolts per the fsm torque sequence. It is always a good idea to loosen them up the opposite way that you tightened them up, thus not creating added tension to any particular part of the motor as you are loosing the bolts
Then with a rubber mallet you can tap loose anything still stuck from sealent.
Be careful as you are removing each iron and housing, everything sticks from the oil and then falls off once its apart making it hard to keep track of what seals come from which side of the rotor
As you remove each iron and housing inspect for any cracks or damages
once everything is inspected you should easily find any kind of damage if there is any
If you have never taken one of these motors appart you will be in awe at how small everything really is and how amazing it is to get as much power out of something so small.
as for the reason my motor went, well, it had two cracked apex seals on the front rotor, which scored the front housing really bad both the rotor and housing are beond repair.
I am waiting word from rotary performance on my options as this motor was still under warranty.
To my suprise the exhaust side had a bit of a port done to it but the intake did not really have any kind of porting just smoothened runners as you can kind of see from the pics so Im thinking street port and I will be opening up the exhaust a bit more.
frusturated but motivated to get this thing done at this point
I will keep everyone posted on progress
01-07-12, 08:29 PM
#11
One more pic of the good housing and rotor
with the irons all cleaned up
what I dont have pictured is the two rubbermade totes that are full of all the bagged parts from the tare down
luckly my turbo didnt get taken out by the fragmented apex seal on its exit from the motor.
with the irons all cleaned up
what I dont have pictured is the two rubbermade totes that are full of all the bagged parts from the tare down
luckly my turbo didnt get taken out by the fragmented apex seal on its exit from the motor.
01-08-12, 07:26 PM
#13
ahh I thought about the semi pp too but the way things have been going, one motor lasted 120k+ and this one barily 3k i have a lot to learn yet when it comes to these motors so I dont want to put a lot of time porting and making huge power just to realize that I goofed on one little portion of my build
I would rather just do a decent street port and go from there, once I feel good about this build I will start another from scratch while this one is still running. Then I will go all out and see what kind of numbers I can get.
Other than that does anyone know of or have tried using 88' TII housings on a 13b rew build. I know of the differences between the two but cant really find anyone who has done this to replace a bad housing. I only ask because I know where there is one with a complete engine that I can get for under a hundred bucks. For a hundred bucks it would be worth the try. I can always make my money back and more, on stripping the car and selling for parts
I would rather just do a decent street port and go from there, once I feel good about this build I will start another from scratch while this one is still running. Then I will go all out and see what kind of numbers I can get.
Other than that does anyone know of or have tried using 88' TII housings on a 13b rew build. I know of the differences between the two but cant really find anyone who has done this to replace a bad housing. I only ask because I know where there is one with a complete engine that I can get for under a hundred bucks. For a hundred bucks it would be worth the try. I can always make my money back and more, on stripping the car and selling for parts
01-08-12, 07:47 PM
#14
ahh I thought about the semi pp too but the way things have been going, one motor lasted 120k+ and this one barily 3k i have a lot to learn yet when it comes to these motors so I dont want to put a lot of time porting and making huge power just to realize that I goofed on one little portion of my build
I would rather just do a decent street port and go from there, once I feel good about this build I will start another from scratch while this one is still running. Then I will go all out and see what kind of numbers I can get.
Other than that does anyone know of or have tried using 88' TII housings on a 13b rew build. I know of the differences between the two but cant really find anyone who has done this to replace a bad housing. I only ask because I know where there is one with a complete engine that I can get for under a hundred bucks. For a hundred bucks it would be worth the try. I can always make my money back and more, on stripping the car and selling for parts
I would rather just do a decent street port and go from there, once I feel good about this build I will start another from scratch while this one is still running. Then I will go all out and see what kind of numbers I can get.
Other than that does anyone know of or have tried using 88' TII housings on a 13b rew build. I know of the differences between the two but cant really find anyone who has done this to replace a bad housing. I only ask because I know where there is one with a complete engine that I can get for under a hundred bucks. For a hundred bucks it would be worth the try. I can always make my money back and more, on stripping the car and selling for parts
Sounds like there was no need for a poll then.......
01-08-12, 07:53 PM
#15
other than that it looks like i will be looking into a shortblock for 1200 and just using that because the difference in the rebuild cost is actually a lot more... if I end up going this route i will br selling the irons the good housing and the e shaft and building from the short block
01-08-12, 07:55 PM
#16
origanally there was a need but common consensus stated that big street port would be the best route so thats what i have decided.
rebuilding from a decent motor with less than 60k miles is better than rebuilding from a motor that I would have to scrounge for parts for.....This depending on Rotary Performance warranty options
rebuilding from a decent motor with less than 60k miles is better than rebuilding from a motor that I would have to scrounge for parts for.....This depending on Rotary Performance warranty options
Last edited by Athanon; 01-08-12 at 08:03 PM. Reason: typos
01-09-12, 07:43 PM
#17
Well I've come up with another option.... found a couple of places that will resurface and ceramic coat the housings and rotors I'm seriously considering this option as a little bigger exhaust port will take out some of the grooving. The only real obstacle I'm seeing is the rotor with that nasty indentation on it .
Has anyone ever done this before and what would be your recommendations on resurfaced housings and coating?
Has anyone ever done this before and what would be your recommendations on resurfaced housings and coating?
01-15-12, 11:27 AM
#18
parts list for rebuild and price
$395 als 2mm seals
$206.00 rotor Shipped
$395.00 used rotor housing Shipped
3 x 3.00" Aluminum V-Band Flange
4 x 3.00" OD, 16 Gauge, Aluminized Steel Straight Tube
2 x 3.00" Aluminized Steel, 4.00" Radius, 45 Degree Mandrel Bend
1 x 3.00" Aluminized Steel, 4.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend
$116.25 + shipping
.040" 3003 - H14 Aluminum Sheet-12"x24" Plate.040" 3003 - H14 Aluminum Sheet
SKU: 03sh.040-12x24
Length Tolerance: Plus or Minus 1/4"
Approximate Piece Weight: 1.15 lbs
Approximate Total Weight: 6.91 lbs
$69.96
aluminum stock
1" {A} x 1-1/2" {B} x .125" Wall {C} Rect. Tube 6063-T52 Aluminum-48"1" {A} x 1-1/2" {B} x .125" Wall {C} Rect. Tube 6063-T52 Aluminum
SKU: t63r1x1.5x.125-48
Length Tolerance: Plus or Minus 3/4"
Approximate Piece Weight: 2.62 lbs
Approximate Total Weight: 15.72 lbs
$86.82 + $5.00 packaging
total= $1273.68
creating custom v mount ducting and custom vband ic piping mounted off of the engine instead of the frame of the car total added wieght is about 30 lbs including the ic minus what will be cut off for fitment
I will do a wieght check after mock up
but the rebuild has to be complete before I can complete the mock up
Future plans for new years resolution start date feb 1st finish date tbd
$206.00 rotor Shipped
$395.00 used rotor housing Shipped
3 x 3.00" Aluminum V-Band Flange
4 x 3.00" OD, 16 Gauge, Aluminized Steel Straight Tube
2 x 3.00" Aluminized Steel, 4.00" Radius, 45 Degree Mandrel Bend
1 x 3.00" Aluminized Steel, 4.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend
$116.25 + shipping
.040" 3003 - H14 Aluminum Sheet-12"x24" Plate.040" 3003 - H14 Aluminum Sheet
SKU: 03sh.040-12x24
Length Tolerance: Plus or Minus 1/4"
Approximate Piece Weight: 1.15 lbs
Approximate Total Weight: 6.91 lbs
$69.96
aluminum stock
1" {A} x 1-1/2" {B} x .125" Wall {C} Rect. Tube 6063-T52 Aluminum-48"1" {A} x 1-1/2" {B} x .125" Wall {C} Rect. Tube 6063-T52 Aluminum
SKU: t63r1x1.5x.125-48
Length Tolerance: Plus or Minus 3/4"
Approximate Piece Weight: 2.62 lbs
Approximate Total Weight: 15.72 lbs
$86.82 + $5.00 packaging
total= $1273.68
creating custom v mount ducting and custom vband ic piping mounted off of the engine instead of the frame of the car total added wieght is about 30 lbs including the ic minus what will be cut off for fitment
I will do a wieght check after mock up
but the rebuild has to be complete before I can complete the mock up
Future plans for new years resolution start date feb 1st finish date tbd
01-15-12, 02:51 PM
#19
Don't worry, Be happy
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Im betting your irons are fine. It is likely a housing that is damaged. Take my opinion for what its worth... keep the mild port. Car becomes annoying to drive with large street ports or bridge ports. You may think it sounds cool but I personally wouldnt give up the driveability just to hear that annoying exhaust note. The ports you have already are more than a 35R can outperform.
How do larger ports make the driveability go down? It stalls a lot or something?
01-15-12, 03:01 PM
#20
no... what they are talking about is the amout of rmp's you need for idol with larger porting and how choppy it is when letting out the clutch when in say... stop and go traffic, where as large porting and high idol arent an issue when at the track, sence you use both for good launching off of the line.
if you use large prting and try to slip clutch everything durring in town driving you will eat up a clutch in little to no time at all..
if you use large prting and try to slip clutch everything durring in town driving you will eat up a clutch in little to no time at all..
02-26-12, 12:58 PM
#21
[B] Is there an issue using these rotors in the same motor [B]
the rotor on the right looks to me like a high compression rotor and the one on the left lookslike a low compression s5/s6 rotor... Is the correct ?
and will there be any adverse results from building a motor using these two rotors.
they are with the 2 letter weight catagory. i just dont want to put this money into this thing and have to turn around and do it again in a month.
and will there be any adverse results from building a motor using these two rotors.
they are with the 2 letter weight catagory. i just dont want to put this money into this thing and have to turn around and do it again in a month.
02-26-12, 02:29 PM
#22
Canadian Boost
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i have two d weight rotors from different series in my motor they still have the same compreesion as in the bowls are the same depth. this may have caused some vibrations in the last build i did change them to two matching s4 low comp c weigth rotors just in case. i think they maybe different weight's, that would be something to have a look at.
I would say from your picture you are right. only draw back would be the weight. It would cause imbalance above 4k rpm.
I would try to find a matching pair just for piece of mind.
I would say from your picture you are right. only draw back would be the weight. It would cause imbalance above 4k rpm.
I would try to find a matching pair just for piece of mind.
02-26-12, 09:32 PM
#23
starting my porting
starting my porting here are a few pics let me lknow what you all think.
the exhaust port is kind of an idea ive been pondering for a wile and if it doesnt work it still leaves room for a full oval on the bottom.. essentially its a dime sized cemi circle that is beveled upward and inward. kind of an exhause bleed prior to full on open.
i wonder what it will do to exhaust note ?
the exhaust port is kind of an idea ive been pondering for a wile and if it doesnt work it still leaves room for a full oval on the bottom.. essentially its a dime sized cemi circle that is beveled upward and inward. kind of an exhause bleed prior to full on open.
i wonder what it will do to exhaust note ?
