Knee-deep in my current build
04-12-10, 10:07 PM
#553
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
A video of the high boost dyno run, and a short clip of the car on the highway:
(edit: note that I did not post these videos..... I don't consider my FD 'badass,' and that's a 4th gear pull)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ui-l8NAW1E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzE67smkZtY
(edit: note that I did not post these videos..... I don't consider my FD 'badass,' and that's a 4th gear pull)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ui-l8NAW1E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzE67smkZtY
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 04-12-10 at 11:11 PM.
04-13-10, 10:07 AM
#557
Hey Rich, i just took mine out with the new oil temp sender in the same location as yours. It was about 75 degrees outside, on the highway I was between 140F and 150F all day. I'm using mobil1 10w30.
I don't have ducting, but have large vents from my C-west bumper, your fancy R-Magic ducts may be whats keeping yours a little cooler.
And how long were you "around town" because after i was done driving on the highway i was in some stop and go and saw my oil temps spike to 200F.
My water temp was between 198F and 208F the whole day.
I don't have ducting, but have large vents from my C-west bumper, your fancy R-Magic ducts may be whats keeping yours a little cooler.
And how long were you "around town" because after i was done driving on the highway i was in some stop and go and saw my oil temps spike to 200F.
My water temp was between 198F and 208F the whole day.
nice!
04-13-10, 06:43 PM
#564
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Rich, you really don't need the OMP, JDM or otherwise. I've been running Amsoil 2 stroke at 1/2 oz per gal for about 6 years now and the car runs like a champ. Granted you're making quite a bit more power, but I just don't see the point of running both.
04-13-10, 08:16 PM
#565
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
Hey Rich, i just took mine out with the new oil temp sender in the same location as yours. It was about 75 degrees outside, on the highway I was between 140F and 150F all day. I'm using mobil1 10w30.
I don't have ducting, but have large vents from my C-west bumper, your fancy R-Magic ducts may be whats keeping yours a little cooler.
And how long were you "around town" because after i was done driving on the highway i was in some stop and go and saw my oil temps spike to 200F.
My water temp was between 198F and 208F the whole day.
I don't have ducting, but have large vents from my C-west bumper, your fancy R-Magic ducts may be whats keeping yours a little cooler.
And how long were you "around town" because after i was done driving on the highway i was in some stop and go and saw my oil temps spike to 200F.
My water temp was between 198F and 208F the whole day.
04-13-10, 10:46 PM
#566
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Location: NC
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Thanks for the unsolicited advice Mark, I'll keep it in mind
Last edited by no_more_rice; 04-13-10 at 10:48 PM.
04-20-10, 07:39 PM
#574
oil temp measurement location
Hey Rich, just got around to getting caught up with the progress on your ride. Car looks great man, as always. Nice choice of wheels, but I like your FM-5 better
Regarding oil temperatures, have you considered that oil temps as measured @ the pedestal should be lower than if they were measured @ the pan? See attached diagram, you are probably familiar with it from the service highlights manual. IIRC, on the old Mazdaspeed motorsports site, they recommended that temps at the pan on an N/A rotary were not higher than 240ish *F... that website doesn't exist anymore from what I can tell. Racing Beat recommends that oil going into the motor doesn't go above 205*F IIRC...
I think the difference strongly depends on the oil cooler setup (size, ducting) and ambient temps... I was actually thinking of getting an 2nd oil temp gauge and measuring the temps @ the pedestal, in an effort to determine the cooling capability of my setup. I wouldn't be surprised to see a 20-50*F difference between before or after the cooler on my car, even more on yours (99 spec front, etc.). I'm currently taking temps from the pan, and /w a single oil cooler had it up to 260*F on the track once... haven't had the OE 93 bumper ducted duals out on the track yet (will be in Aug this year), but on the street @ the pan, it reads anywhere from 120 (40-50*F cold day cruising) to 220 (70*+ traffic)...
Regarding oil temperatures, have you considered that oil temps as measured @ the pedestal should be lower than if they were measured @ the pan? See attached diagram, you are probably familiar with it from the service highlights manual. IIRC, on the old Mazdaspeed motorsports site, they recommended that temps at the pan on an N/A rotary were not higher than 240ish *F... that website doesn't exist anymore from what I can tell. Racing Beat recommends that oil going into the motor doesn't go above 205*F IIRC...
I think the difference strongly depends on the oil cooler setup (size, ducting) and ambient temps... I was actually thinking of getting an 2nd oil temp gauge and measuring the temps @ the pedestal, in an effort to determine the cooling capability of my setup. I wouldn't be surprised to see a 20-50*F difference between before or after the cooler on my car, even more on yours (99 spec front, etc.). I'm currently taking temps from the pan, and /w a single oil cooler had it up to 260*F on the track once... haven't had the OE 93 bumper ducted duals out on the track yet (will be in Aug this year), but on the street @ the pan, it reads anywhere from 120 (40-50*F cold day cruising) to 220 (70*+ traffic)...
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 06-09-11 at 05:33 PM.