Knee-deep in my current build
06-13-09, 10:25 AM
#27
I should have some pics on my website, but basically we open up the passages around the oil pump, port match the pickup to the pickup tube, and open up the holes on the rear iron where the oil filter pedestal mounts. We also use the standard e-shaft thermobypass plug.
06-13-09, 11:09 AM
#28
06-14-09, 09:58 PM
#33
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
I shall post a copious amount of pics, you all know I'm a notorious picture ***** 
The portwork is done, and the motor is cleaned, prepped and ready to build. I'm going back and forth on painting it or not, the irons and housings are brand new so look pretty damn good as-is
The portwork is done, and the motor is cleaned, prepped and ready to build. I'm going back and forth on painting it or not, the irons and housings are brand new so look pretty damn good as-is
06-16-09, 08:59 PM
#35
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
Pics
I ended up painting the motor high-gloss black and aluminum/silver, and am glad I did, it looks very clean and shiny. We do this for almost all customer motors.
I also did end up going with the RA 2mm black/super seals with oem springs. Pineapple heavy duty coolant o-ring kit, stock corner seals, stock rew e-shaft, stock tension bolts torqued a bit higher than factory spec.
The more research I did and the more 'in the know' people I talked to, it seemed clear to me that in general going with primarily stock components is the way to go for my goals (a consistent 500 rwhp with some time spent at a little higher boost).
I had to stop short of installing the front cover because the endplay was just barely in spec as it came from the factory in japan and I want this motor to be tighter. We have a big pile of spacers at the shop but unfortunately not an 'A' to be found.
In this first pic, I cleaned up the rough spots that you see on the port wall before the build.
Primary port, hard to tell but quite a bit bigger than stock. Sorry, for some reason no flash so you can't see inside the port.
Don't brand new parts look great?
Hope these suckers treat me well, plan is to keep an eye on EGTs make sure they enjoy a long (warp-free) life.
All buttoned up with Exedy cerametallic twin disc clutch installed.
I ended up painting the motor high-gloss black and aluminum/silver, and am glad I did, it looks very clean and shiny. We do this for almost all customer motors.
I also did end up going with the RA 2mm black/super seals with oem springs. Pineapple heavy duty coolant o-ring kit, stock corner seals, stock rew e-shaft, stock tension bolts torqued a bit higher than factory spec.
The more research I did and the more 'in the know' people I talked to, it seemed clear to me that in general going with primarily stock components is the way to go for my goals (a consistent 500 rwhp with some time spent at a little higher boost).
I had to stop short of installing the front cover because the endplay was just barely in spec as it came from the factory in japan and I want this motor to be tighter. We have a big pile of spacers at the shop but unfortunately not an 'A' to be found.
In this first pic, I cleaned up the rough spots that you see on the port wall before the build.
Primary port, hard to tell but quite a bit bigger than stock. Sorry, for some reason no flash so you can't see inside the port.
Don't brand new parts look great
?Hope these suckers treat me well, plan is to keep an eye on EGTs make sure they enjoy a long (warp-free) life.
All buttoned up with Exedy cerametallic twin disc clutch installed.
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 06-09-11 at 05:33 PM.
06-20-09, 06:31 PM
#49
Looks good Rich. Consider an AL oil pan from Pineapple. No pan sealing issues and larger oil volume for better cooling.
FWIW I went through all the same questions you did. I ended up with stock seals and the solid corner seals.
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fdenginebuild.htm
Regards,
Crispy
FWIW I went through all the same questions you did. I ended up with stock seals and the solid corner seals.
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fdenginebuild.htm
Regards,
Crispy
06-25-09, 09:20 PM
#50
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
Some battle damage
This is what happens when you don't install a heat shield over your passenger side motor mount 
Back in 2003 I installed a pair of arms that didn't have the bolt holes to mount the bracket, so when I went to go and install the heat shield after the fact it was a no-go.
Also, the gaskets from the block to the exhaust manifold......as you can see, one of the nuts wasn't tightened 100% due to the stud on the rotor housing stripping out. The vibrations of the motor over the years must have backed the nut off. With a large exhaust leak like that I'm hoping to have better spool on this new setup with everything nice and tight
Back in 2003 I installed a pair of arms that didn't have the bolt holes to mount the bracket, so when I went to go and install the heat shield after the fact it was a no-go.
Also, the gaskets from the block to the exhaust manifold......as you can see, one of the nuts wasn't tightened 100% due to the stud on the rotor housing stripping out. The vibrations of the motor over the years must have backed the nut off. With a large exhaust leak like that I'm hoping to have better spool on this new setup with everything nice and tight
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 06-09-11 at 05:33 PM.