Knee-deep in my current build
06-28-09, 01:31 PM
#76
touge******
Nah. After about a year and a half of use (including 3 track weekends) my coating was flaking and crumbling off too and I wasn't using a blanket. IMHO either improperly applied coating (poor suface prep) or simply a crappy coating. I've had other coated pipes from other coaters last years and years and still look new...not the case with mine. 
Crispy
Crispy
06-28-09, 05:49 PM
#79
Well I was so effing fed up of those damn bolts backing out at the track, while I had the pipes off the car I safety wired them. The first time I tracked the car after installing the single T I lost two bolts entirely and the six others were just dangling in their holes and the exhaust was blowing right past the WG entirely. LOL. I switched to better hardware, then went with split washers, neither worked, then Nordlocks - which helped A LOT but the ultimate positive mechanism to stop hardware from coming loose is to safety wire them. They aren't coming out now!
Gonna track your car? Safety wire those WG and DP hardware.
Crispy
Gonna track your car? Safety wire those WG and DP hardware.
Crispy
06-30-09, 11:30 PM
#84
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
thanks guys!
Funny you mention it Marshall, I just spent the last 8 hours sitting in my engine bay (on the subframe) cleaning and scrubbing and rubbing. I wish I had my camera to take a picture of the pile of filthy paper towels
With the motor out I took the opportunity to remove the coolant line and brake booster line that runs along the backside of the firewall, and I also disconnected the brakes lines from the brackets that hold them. I was able to clean all the road grime and oil sludge from that part of the bay, and I also went crazy with DEI fire sleeving.
Here is what is getting the heat treatment in my setup:
DEI Fire Sleeving:
passenger side ABS Line: 5/8th
EGT Probe: 3/8th
s/s Wastegate lines: 5/8th
500R turbo coolant feed and return: 5/8th
oil feed: 3/8th
DEI Fire Shroud:<----this stuff has velcro so is used when you can't slip the sleeve over the end of the line or harness
Engine wiring harness (the section by the downpipe): 1 inch
Rest of harness gets DEI fire tape.
oil return: 1 inch
I replaced and heat sleeved the three fuel lines in the driver's side corner of the bay, this with thermo-tec sleeving which isn't as heat resistant as the DEI stuff but it's on the other side away from the turbo. I'm going to use some heat reflective film as well on the firewall around where the downpipe routes.
I took the time to reroute and loom alot of the misc lines in the bay to clean things up...... ie water injection wiring, boost gauge wiring, egt sender wiring etc.
I'm going to be sending off for ceramic coating the heater hose hard line from the pass side of the bay as well as the heater hose line that runs along the backside and the brake booster line. I'll get them done in black for a nice clean oem look, the pieces are looking a little worn and beat up after all the years.
I ordered a Mazdaspeed ground kit which should arrive from Japan in about 2 weeks.
Lastly, I ordered a bunch of stuff from Ray at Malloy to include the wiring harness for the starter/battery/alternator.
Sorry for the ramble, I'm exhausted and am going to bed
Funny you mention it Marshall, I just spent the last 8 hours sitting in my engine bay (on the subframe) cleaning and scrubbing and rubbing. I wish I had my camera to take a picture of the pile of filthy paper towels
With the motor out I took the opportunity to remove the coolant line and brake booster line that runs along the backside of the firewall, and I also disconnected the brakes lines from the brackets that hold them. I was able to clean all the road grime and oil sludge from that part of the bay, and I also went crazy with DEI fire sleeving.
Here is what is getting the heat treatment in my setup:
DEI Fire Sleeving:
passenger side ABS Line: 5/8th
EGT Probe: 3/8th
s/s Wastegate lines: 5/8th
500R turbo coolant feed and return: 5/8th
oil feed: 3/8th
DEI Fire Shroud:<----this stuff has velcro so is used when you can't slip the sleeve over the end of the line or harness
Engine wiring harness (the section by the downpipe): 1 inch
Rest of harness gets DEI fire tape.
oil return: 1 inch
I replaced and heat sleeved the three fuel lines in the driver's side corner of the bay, this with thermo-tec sleeving which isn't as heat resistant as the DEI stuff but it's on the other side away from the turbo. I'm going to use some heat reflective film as well on the firewall around where the downpipe routes.
I took the time to reroute and loom alot of the misc lines in the bay to clean things up...... ie water injection wiring, boost gauge wiring, egt sender wiring etc.
I'm going to be sending off for ceramic coating the heater hose hard line from the pass side of the bay as well as the heater hose line that runs along the backside and the brake booster line. I'll get them done in black for a nice clean oem look, the pieces are looking a little worn and beat up after all the years.
I ordered a Mazdaspeed ground kit which should arrive from Japan in about 2 weeks.
Lastly, I ordered a bunch of stuff from Ray at Malloy to include the wiring harness for the starter/battery/alternator.
Sorry for the ramble, I'm exhausted and am going to bed
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 07-08-09 at 09:21 PM.
07-01-09, 04:46 PM
#85
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Join Date: Apr 2001
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Well I was so effing fed up of those damn bolts backing out at the track, while I had the pipes off the car I safety wired them. The first time I tracked the car after installing the single T I lost two bolts entirely and the six others were just dangling in their holes and the exhaust was blowing right past the WG entirely. LOL. I switched to better hardware, then went with split washers, neither worked, then Nordlocks - which helped A LOT but the ultimate positive mechanism to stop hardware from coming loose is to safety wire them. They aren't coming out now!
Gonna track your car? Safety wire those WG and DP hardware.
Crispy
Gonna track your car? Safety wire those WG and DP hardware.
Crispy
I hate when that happens...but that's certainly the only solution.
BTW, nice rebuild and writeup!!! I knew the 35R would work well for you
G-
07-08-09, 09:20 PM
#86
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
I've taken some pictures of the cleaned/heat-barrier'ed (doubt this is a word ) engine bay but don't have internet at the new apartment yet to transfer pics from my home pc onto the net. Should be able to do it this weekend.
Other updates:
Received the Tial Q BOV in a nice anodized blue, along with gaskets for the 500R.
Received the Mazdaspeed grounding wires.
Received some other random goodies from Japan, a Feed brake fluid reservoir cover and 99 spec undertray piece.
Received like three boxes of parts from Ray at Malloy, to include a brand new starter/alt/battery harness. I was on the fence about this one but my existing harness was in pretty sorry shape and this is definitely the time to do it
I should have some of my ceramic coated pieces back by the weekend (to include the front cover) so that I can start building up the motor. I opted to do something a bit different with the compressor housing, stay tuned for pics of everything
) engine bay but don't have internet at the new apartment yet to transfer pics from my home pc onto the net. Should be able to do it this weekend.Other updates:
Received the Tial Q BOV in a nice anodized blue, along with gaskets for the 500R.
Received the Mazdaspeed grounding wires.
Received some other random goodies from Japan, a Feed brake fluid reservoir cover and 99 spec undertray piece.
Received like three boxes of parts from Ray at Malloy, to include a brand new starter/alt/battery harness. I was on the fence about this one but my existing harness was in pretty sorry shape and this is definitely the time to do it
I should have some of my ceramic coated pieces back by the weekend (to include the front cover) so that I can start building up the motor. I opted to do something a bit different with the compressor housing, stay tuned for pics of everything
07-09-09, 08:42 PM
#88
07-09-09, 09:41 PM
#91
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
The motor is already ported, built, and on the stand. I'll have the front cover back from the ceramic coater this weekend and will start building up the engine sunday, should be able to drop it in soon
07-09-09, 10:07 PM
#93
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
Negative, but they're in transit. Should show up at the shop on monday or tuesday.
Fikse FM5 Classics in 17x8.5,10 with Kumho XS 245/40 and 275/40. If it sounds familiar it should, I am going back to the future with this setup and I love it
Fikse FM5 Classics in 17x8.5,10 with Kumho XS 245/40 and 275/40. If it sounds familiar it should, I am going back to the future with this setup and I love it
07-10-09, 07:16 AM
#94
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
"I just spent the last 8 hours sitting in my engine bay (on the subframe) cleaning and scrubbing and rubbing."
oh do i remember that well even though i have done my best to forget it. having the engine out is always dangerous.
it always starts with "oh i will grab some towels and parts washer cleaner and just hit a few of the surfaces. then it's "oh i will just unbolt a few items and clean behind them." then it is the realization that the engine compartment is a pit and everything needs to come out.... disconnect the steering to clean behind it etc etc.
there is only one way to do things.
good luck on your rebuild. i think it is neat that you are not changing some of the primary items and are happy w them... the turbo for instance.
hc
oh do i remember that well even though i have done my best to forget it. having the engine out is always dangerous.
it always starts with "oh i will grab some towels and parts washer cleaner and just hit a few of the surfaces. then it's "oh i will just unbolt a few items and clean behind them." then it is the realization that the engine compartment is a pit and everything needs to come out.... disconnect the steering to clean behind it etc etc.
there is only one way to do things.
good luck on your rebuild. i think it is neat that you are not changing some of the primary items and are happy w them... the turbo for instance.
hc
07-10-09, 08:21 AM
#95
"I just spent the last 8 hours sitting in my engine bay (on the subframe) cleaning and scrubbing and rubbing."
oh do i remember that well even though i have done my best to forget it. having the engine out is always dangerous.
it always starts with "oh i will grab some towels and parts washer cleaner and just hit a few of the surfaces. then it's "oh i will just unbolt a few items and clean behind them." then it is the realization that the engine compartment is a pit and everything needs to come out.... disconnect the steering to clean behind it etc etc.
there is only one way to do things.
good luck on your rebuild. i think it is neat that you are not changing some of the primary items and are happy w them... the turbo for instance.
hc
oh do i remember that well even though i have done my best to forget it. having the engine out is always dangerous.
it always starts with "oh i will grab some towels and parts washer cleaner and just hit a few of the surfaces. then it's "oh i will just unbolt a few items and clean behind them." then it is the realization that the engine compartment is a pit and everything needs to come out.... disconnect the steering to clean behind it etc etc.
there is only one way to do things.
good luck on your rebuild. i think it is neat that you are not changing some of the primary items and are happy w them... the turbo for instance.
hc
This is the story of my life! I took out my 12a and well, the parts list is growing by the day and the car hasn't been on the road since!
I'm glad I'm not the only person suffering from this affliction.
I can't wait to see this thing get put together. Subscribed for sure.
07-11-09, 12:28 PM
#96
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
Some pics of the brand new starter/alt/battery harness. Ray at Malloy sells these way below list at somewhere around $500. You can compare it to my old harness, which after a lot of cleaning, wrapping and re-sleeving may find it's home in another FD.
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 06-09-11 at 05:33 PM.
07-11-09, 12:33 PM
#97
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
Some in-progress engine bay pics......the back of the engine bay was an absolute mess. The first pics don't show the heat shielding on the turbo side of the engine bay. You can see the black DEI fire sleeving on the EGT sensor line, ABS line, and wastegate lines. I also replaced the fuel lines below the brake booster and have them some less-extreme Thermo-tec. heat shielding.
The last pic shows the newly-installed harness as well as a nice clean steering rack with the Gotham p/s delete line loop.
The last pic shows the newly-installed harness as well as a nice clean steering rack with the Gotham p/s delete line loop.
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 06-09-11 at 05:33 PM.
07-11-09, 01:51 PM
#98
Hey Rich,
IM also in the process of replacing my engine (due to bearing failure).
I picked up a BRAND NEW motor from Ray just this past week.
Very nice, came with a flywheel, complete crank pulley, oil metering valves, water temp sensor, thermostat housing with Cap & water level sensor. Can’t beat the price for all you get.
When I first bought my car 10 years ago I installed a NAPA thermostat. The coolant seals let go a month later. I had that motor rebuilt with 3mm apex seals.
A couple years later I upgraded to a Power FC & noticed the knock readings would peg, under no load, above 3K rpms. This was why my HP reading were always low on the dyno. The stock (M2 chipped) computer was always retarding the ignition.
I didn't want to mess with another rebuild on my 119K motor. Plus, if you can find a rebuilt core to exchange, your core deposit is based on how much of your old motor is salvageable. Sounds like an apartment cleaning deposit where they always find some excuse to keep your money.
So it's nice to start all over with new stuff.
Unfortunately I have to go out of town for the next 10 days, so I can't finish it up until I return. The benefit is I made a list of all the hoses, seals, gaskets, nuts & bolts I want to replace. They should be waiting for me when I get home.
It's amazing how tolerant we are of these cars. Over the years I’ve replaced the diff, transmission, turbos & engine (now X2). Most any other car I would have considered it a POS & sold it long ago.
IM also in the process of replacing my engine (due to bearing failure).
I picked up a BRAND NEW motor from Ray just this past week.
Very nice, came with a flywheel, complete crank pulley, oil metering valves, water temp sensor, thermostat housing with Cap & water level sensor. Can’t beat the price for all you get.
When I first bought my car 10 years ago I installed a NAPA thermostat. The coolant seals let go a month later. I had that motor rebuilt with 3mm apex seals.
A couple years later I upgraded to a Power FC & noticed the knock readings would peg, under no load, above 3K rpms. This was why my HP reading were always low on the dyno. The stock (M2 chipped) computer was always retarding the ignition.
I didn't want to mess with another rebuild on my 119K motor. Plus, if you can find a rebuilt core to exchange, your core deposit is based on how much of your old motor is salvageable. Sounds like an apartment cleaning deposit where they always find some excuse to keep your money.
So it's nice to start all over with new stuff.
Unfortunately I have to go out of town for the next 10 days, so I can't finish it up until I return. The benefit is I made a list of all the hoses, seals, gaskets, nuts & bolts I want to replace. They should be waiting for me when I get home.
It's amazing how tolerant we are of these cars. Over the years I’ve replaced the diff, transmission, turbos & engine (now X2). Most any other car I would have considered it a POS & sold it long ago.
