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Kilo Racing 3 Rotor FD Conversion

Old Sep 25, 2013 | 07:46 PM
  #3876  
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Sounds good. plus rumor has it Phil will have his 20b sema car at dgrr!
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 01:11 AM
  #3877  
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getting to see this car in person feels like one of the major attractions to going to deals gap lol .

The car is seriously looking amazing . and I do like the red stripe hah . it gives it somewhere for the eyes to focus on . kinda like cleavage
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 10:20 AM
  #3878  
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^ The "cleavage" thing is an interesting but good analogy. You know what I will think of now every time I see the car right? My wife already calls the car "the other woman" so maybe you are on to something here

I hope to be in tip top shape this year for DGRR. Last year I was barely running so can't go anywhere but up. Remind me when you see me and we'll go out for a drive.
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 10:45 AM
  #3879  
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Originally Posted by David Hayes
^ The "cleavage" thing is an interesting but good analogy. You know what I will think of now every time I see the car right? My wife already calls the car "the other woman" so maybe you are on to something here

I hope to be in tip top shape this year for DGRR. Last year I was barely running so can't go anywhere but up. Remind me when you see me and we'll go out for a drive.
Like wise on the barely running thing hah ,sucked you had ot take the BMW on the skyway drive. and will do ! I'd love to try and keep up haha

Last edited by Tem120; Sep 26, 2013 at 11:04 AM.
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #3880  
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^ Yep, following your thread. Looks like you are getting close now that the parts are ordered. As for the BMW (my father in law's), at least we had a running car available. With an FD, always have a backup
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #3881  
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did you change the offset on the rear tires also?
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #3882  
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^ Yes, I think. I wanted to try to get better balance between the fronts and the rears so I went from a 12.5 inch wide rear wheel to an 11.5 setup. On the fronts, I went from a 9.0 to a 10.0. Here are the specs on each:

GA3 18X10 MATTE BLACK
+30MM

GA3 18X11.5 MATTE BLACK
+11MM

This stuff doesn't mean much to me as I'm not a wheel expert, so I had Forgeline select the correct offsets with the goal of pushing the wheels out more on the front and then to match the look of the previous rears.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:10 PM
  #3883  
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Well, the work has begun on reassembling the car. The engine is going in as we speak and the car will soon be over to Gato's for the v-mount fabrication. Ordered a Koyo N-flo radiator from THMotorsports per Kilo's request. This means I have a brand new custom Griffin unit I had made a few months ago that I will soon put up for sale if anyone is interested.

Going with a same color scheme, basically black on black but the bay should look a lot more clean and polished than before. Adding in a few touches of red too to match the red stripe on the wheels. Hoping this will look good and not stand out like a sore thumb but we shall see

More to come. Should have the v-mount setup done next week so some good pics soon.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:35 PM
  #3884  
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I think you should go with a custom made rad and intercooler to fit your V-mount to maximize cooling area. Any rad built for a 2 rotor application is inadequate for anything but mild street use.

thewird
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 08:34 PM
  #3885  
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^ I don't disagree but this is what Kilo wants. Can always use the custom Griffin rad if this fails.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 11:09 PM
  #3886  
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If you can David, could you do some comparison pics of the new rad with an stock or Koyo for a size comparo? Mine is pretty big. It's a modified 3 row 2nd gen Supra radiator.
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 07:22 PM
  #3887  
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From: FL
Trey, I've got some measurements for you. The "core" size of my custom Griffin radiator is:

76mm X 432mm X 483mm

That is a 3 inch thick dual pass unit.

The core size of the Koyo n flo unit is:

53mm X 313mm X 616mm

That is a 2 inch thick dual pass unit.

My custom radiator is larger but I am surprised with how big the Koyo is so it might work just fine. Banzai Racing runs the Koyo n flo on their 20B with really good success so we shall see.
Attached Thumbnails Kilo Racing 3 Rotor FD Conversion-koyo-radiator.gif  
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 08:30 AM
  #3888  
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Sounds like a nice big setup. Mine is just a single pass 3 row. I thought about modifying it for dual pass but read it creates more water flow resistance and hurts power. Little things like that effect an NA hp and fuel economy more so than something boosted. Anyways, I can't wait to see your completed V mount setup when it's finished.

Attachment 51185



Attachment 51186
Attached Thumbnails Kilo Racing 3 Rotor FD Conversion-forumrunner_20131003_082557.jpg   Kilo Racing 3 Rotor FD Conversion-forumrunner_20131003_082705.jpg  
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 09:50 AM
  #3889  
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I don't think Banzai's car has ever seen a track... Most street turbo 20b's never see a track... Opinions are biased...

thewird
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 10:45 AM
  #3890  
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^Great point!
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 02:59 PM
  #3891  
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From: FL
Originally Posted by thewird
I don't think Banzai's car has ever seen a track... Most street turbo 20b's never see a track... Opinions are biased...

thewird
I need to call Chris to see if he has tracked his car. That is a good point. I have spoken to Kilo about the size of the radiator and he knows I plan on tracking. His conclusion is I will see very low temps with the v mount setup but seeing is always believing right?

I'm not an engineering guy (except my 2 years of ME at Auburn which I hated ) so I am not sure exactly how to compare my Griffin rad to the new Koyo one in terms of cooling capacity. I know I can look at surface area as one measurement as the air has to pass thru the rad to lower the temps of the coolant and I also know the dual pass features provides a nice advantage too and both units have that. I'd have to think the Griffin would do the better job as it is thicker but Kilo wants the Koyo so for now, that's the way to go.
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 04:22 PM
  #3892  
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My 3" rad has these specs...

76.2 x 393.7 x 698.5

It was the biggest that could fit with my V-mount, I ordered it to occupy ALL available space. I even built a custom Airbox underneath with two 4000+ cfm fans that draw 25 amps each. My water temps get to 240-250*F within 4-5 laps even on cool days that require me to wear a long sleeve shirt. I'm actually thinking of adding another radiator in the back with an ECU activated water pump to assist in cooling on the track. On the street, it never gets over 200*F as thats roughly where my fans are triggered. On cool nights cruising down the highway, my temps run a little low at 160-170*F as I have no thermostats.

thewird
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #3893  
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umm why not take some inspiration from an actual race car ?

Isnt the mazda speed radiator supposed to be really amazing?
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 08:47 PM
  #3894  
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RE-Amemiya Level Man Aluminum Radiator FD3S RX-7
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 09:35 PM
  #3895  
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Why would you link an overpriced radiator that isn't special in any way?

thewird
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 09:58 PM
  #3896  
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Originally Posted by thewird
Why would you link an overpriced radiator that isn't special in any way?

thewird
for reference , and yes that is overpriced as all hell .

But I thought that the more compact the honey comb was the better the radiator cooled . and that radiator did seem really compact with the fins .
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 05:31 AM
  #3897  
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Originally Posted by thewird
My 3" rad has these specs...

76.2 x 393.7 x 698.5

It was the biggest that could fit with my V-mount, I ordered it to occupy ALL available space. I even built a custom Airbox underneath with two 4000+ cfm fans that draw 25 amps each. My water temps get to 240-250*F within 4-5 laps even on cool days that require me to wear a long sleeve shirt. I'm actually thinking of adding another radiator in the back with an ECU activated water pump to assist in cooling on the track. On the street, it never gets over 200*F as thats roughly where my fans are triggered. On cool nights cruising down the highway, my temps run a little low at 160-170*F as I have no thermostats.

thewird
Marco, that is really hot. 250 F is 121 C, or well past what I think would be safe for a rotary. I start to worry once the car is above 100 C and then shut it down if it goes above 107 or 108 C, and these are track temps, not the street.

My previous setup produced temps around 91 C (196 F) or so on the street without the AC on. With the AC on, the temps would go to around 98 C (208 F). On the track, I saw no higher than 105 C (220 F) during morning sessions. In the afternoon though, temps went to around 108 C (226 F) and that caused me to drive slower so the temps didn't go up any further. Anything above 100 MPH saw a pretty quick increase in temps. This is part of our rationale for dong the v mount as we think airflow was impeded by the front mount setup.

Kilo believes I will see a pretty good drop in temps with the Koyo and the new setup. The proof will be in actual use and I have a track event scheduled for Nov. 9th so I will know soon enough. That is, if I get the car by then
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 05:25 PM
  #3898  
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Originally Posted by thewird
My 3" rad has these specs...

76.2 x 393.7 x 698.5

It was the biggest that could fit with my V-mount, I ordered it to occupy ALL available space. I even built a custom Airbox underneath with two 4000+ cfm fans that draw 25 amps each. My water temps get to 240-250*F within 4-5 laps even on cool days that require me to wear a long sleeve shirt. I'm actually thinking of adding another radiator in the back with an ECU activated water pump to assist in cooling on the track. On the street, it never gets over 200*F as thats roughly where my fans are triggered. On cool nights cruising down the highway, my temps run a little low at 160-170*F as I have no thermostats.

thewird

What water pump are you running?
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 05:42 PM
  #3899  
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Meziere 55GPM electric water pump.

thewird
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 07:39 AM
  #3900  
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^Wow. So do you think there is such a thing as too much flow with a cooling system to cause this kind of heat rise? What I mean is you have no thermostat and a high volume pump. So could it be that the coolant is flowing through the radiator too fast to properly have heat removed from it? Or do turbo 20b that make **** loads of power make so much heat that you just simply can't cool then down fast enough because your space limited on radiator size in the fd chassis? Sorry for all these questions but I think it's nice to have someone who actually tracks a turbo 20b to share what they know.
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