Kilo Racing 3 Rotor FD Conversion
Thanks for the compliments guys. I am very happy with the dyno session. Again, want to thank all of you that came on out, it was a good time. A special thanks to Steve Osley for taking care of the car and for the great tuning help. The FD is now running very smoothly and I couldn't be more pleased. If you are in the Asheville NC area, Steve is your man. PM me for my experience if you'd like.
Here are a few more videos from the day. This is from one of the first runs where the car made 559 WHP at 12.5 PSI. Steve ultimately got 583 HP at this level which is crazy good for a car with a CAT on it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUXK0iTteCk
Kinda cool to have that much power and not come out of a driving session smelling like a rotary smoke stack. It was mentioned earlier in the thread about who needs more boost than this and I have to agree. Driving the car around at low boost with this much power and torque is a blast. And at above 50% throttle, it's tough to keep planted anyway. The 675 WHP run was mostly to see what the car can do and is less about driving at that level unless I were to go to a track or only go straight. My skills won't allow me to manage that much power in the mountains I'm afraid. I'd like to stay on the road and avoid going over the edge
Here are dynos of Jason's awesomely put together 2 rotor, one of his "pre-game" smack talk and one of a dyno run. This is a base run that netted just under 400 WHP. Unfortunately Jason's MSD boxes had issues and he then developed a turbo problem so he couldn't go past this level. Steve is currently fixing the problems and then it will be back to the dyne for Jason where he'll easily pass the 500 HP level and might even get into the 600+ level.
http://youtu.be/iF1Id98QssM
http://youtu.be/JLtVaDRgYL8
The dyno shop emailed me two of the dyno runs, one at 12 PSI and the other at 18 PSI. Hopefully these are clearer than the iPhone pics posted earlier:
12 PSI run:
18 PSI run:
The dyno shop's RPM pickup was slightly off as Steve took the car to around 7,500 RPM versus the 7,000 shown above. Regardless, the car has more HP in it at both levels as the HP curves have not started to fall off. Steve's guess was we could get a little over 600 WHP at 12 PSI and then over 700 at 18 PSI.
Here are a few more videos from the day. This is from one of the first runs where the car made 559 WHP at 12.5 PSI. Steve ultimately got 583 HP at this level which is crazy good for a car with a CAT on it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUXK0iTteCk
Kinda cool to have that much power and not come out of a driving session smelling like a rotary smoke stack. It was mentioned earlier in the thread about who needs more boost than this and I have to agree. Driving the car around at low boost with this much power and torque is a blast. And at above 50% throttle, it's tough to keep planted anyway. The 675 WHP run was mostly to see what the car can do and is less about driving at that level unless I were to go to a track or only go straight. My skills won't allow me to manage that much power in the mountains I'm afraid. I'd like to stay on the road and avoid going over the edge
Here are dynos of Jason's awesomely put together 2 rotor, one of his "pre-game" smack talk and one of a dyno run. This is a base run that netted just under 400 WHP. Unfortunately Jason's MSD boxes had issues and he then developed a turbo problem so he couldn't go past this level. Steve is currently fixing the problems and then it will be back to the dyne for Jason where he'll easily pass the 500 HP level and might even get into the 600+ level.
http://youtu.be/iF1Id98QssM
http://youtu.be/JLtVaDRgYL8
The dyno shop emailed me two of the dyno runs, one at 12 PSI and the other at 18 PSI. Hopefully these are clearer than the iPhone pics posted earlier:
12 PSI run:
18 PSI run:
The dyno shop's RPM pickup was slightly off as Steve took the car to around 7,500 RPM versus the 7,000 shown above. Regardless, the car has more HP in it at both levels as the HP curves have not started to fall off. Steve's guess was we could get a little over 600 WHP at 12 PSI and then over 700 at 18 PSI.
And a link to pics from the day:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4944084...7628837987693/
The car on the dyno:
And after:
Didn't have time to wash the car. I'm going to have it detailed soon and will then take better pics and post them up.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4944084...7628837987693/
The car on the dyno:
And after:
Didn't have time to wash the car. I'm going to have it detailed soon and will then take better pics and post them up.
hahaha... the video of me watching your fuel pressure! talking about how loud your car is, you can see in the video how close i'm standing without covering my ear and it wasn't unbearable at all...
^Yep, mine is smallish on the hot side which helps it spool up quicker with plenty of efficiency left on the high side to go for more power.
When I started this conversion many years ago, the most a 3 rotor had made was a little over 600 WHP (redrx7 I think?) and this was considered the number to beat. Now I'm at 675 and most would think this is on the low to medium range. Times have certainly changed haven't they?
I was over at Steve Osley's yesterday and we discussed the dyno runs. Steve feels the "magical" number to look at is torque, with anything over 500 to be the potential blowup point of the tranny. So, at 18 PSI, I'm at 535 ft. lbs. of torque which will most likely cause very bad things to happen if I go quickly to WOT. We think "boom" would happen.
So for now, until a T56 or something else is in eminent for me, I'll keep it nice and safe (read safer) at the 12 PSI 435 ft. lbs. of torque level.
When I started this conversion many years ago, the most a 3 rotor had made was a little over 600 WHP (redrx7 I think?) and this was considered the number to beat. Now I'm at 675 and most would think this is on the low to medium range. Times have certainly changed haven't they?
I was over at Steve Osley's yesterday and we discussed the dyno runs. Steve feels the "magical" number to look at is torque, with anything over 500 to be the potential blowup point of the tranny. So, at 18 PSI, I'm at 535 ft. lbs. of torque which will most likely cause very bad things to happen if I go quickly to WOT. We think "boom" would happen.
So for now, until a T56 or something else is in eminent for me, I'll keep it nice and safe (read safer) at the 12 PSI 435 ft. lbs. of torque level.
The T56 is a nice upgrade for you guys with rotaries. They're not terribly expensive and technically have 2 overdrives while not being geared too high at all. Get the MGW F body shifter if you end up upgrading. It's fanfuckingtastic. By far the best shifter for the T56. Also, a Mcleod twin disk is the best clutch for the t56. It can hold anything you throw at it. Just some info for when you end up swapping, you can look back at it.
^Thanks Phil. I am very pleasantly surprised with the power the car put down. We went to the dyno to street tune the car for the mountain altitude so that was the priority. I didn't really care if we made more power so that was a nice added benefit.
It's a noticeable difference that is a lot of fun.
It's a noticeable difference that is a lot of fun.
You are correct sir, way too much money spent and wasted. Started another thread to help others avoid my mistakes:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/david-hayes%92-end-3-rotor-build-rebuild-rebuild-reflection-984240/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/david-hayes%92-end-3-rotor-build-rebuild-rebuild-reflection-984240/
^ not yet. My first event (track) will be VIR in May. Not a bad way to start as its probably the best track on the east coast. If I have the time I'm going to a few of the local autocross events next month.
Car has been down with a Carbonetics carbon LSD swap and pillow ball and diff bushing replacements. Drives like a champ now. Can't say enough about the Carbonetics carbon LSD. It's OEM stock quiet no noise at all. First aftermarket diff that I know of that doesn't click like a mother.
Car has been down with a Carbonetics carbon LSD swap and pillow ball and diff bushing replacements. Drives like a champ now. Can't say enough about the Carbonetics carbon LSD. It's OEM stock quiet no noise at all. First aftermarket diff that I know of that doesn't click like a mother.