Sweet man, you are about in the same spot I am right now, only I have to back track. My motor was a reman that blew up that I rebuilt, and I just realized tonight that it never had the 2 thrust washers when it was remanufactured by mazda, they just plain left them out.

Yet another reason never to trust your life to a reman.

After I watched the Turrentine video a few times through and then a few sections even more so, I feel pretty positive about doing the rest of the build and install. The first time I watched it I thought "well, that didn't help much" so I watched it again and again and again. Crazy, so many things just "clicked" at once from combining what I've read here and then watching the video.


After almost 2 years, I might actually get to drive it this summer.


But next time, I'm sending the block off....I don't want to mess with that **** again anytime soon.

 

wow that is scary thinking that the reman didnt even come with the thrust washers and i know how you feel about finially getting to drive it, i drove mine about 5 miles after i bought it, it already was on its way out and we finished it off :p

 

I was looking at some information about porting the wastegate and i thought i would do it since i have full 3 inch exhaust, DP, MP CB i am sure i would encounter boost creep
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/wastegate-porting-observations-726267/
heres some pictures of the modified manifold between the two turbo's, sorry i forgot to take a picture before i started.

heres a few pictures of the manifold









i put some peanut butter on the wastegatedoor so i could see were it was hitting the manifold.

 

heres some pictures of the actual wastegate

 

all i can say is tapping a side iron while the engine is put together=ftmfl

 

Update:

Put on the oil pan using "The Right Stuff" put on the crank angle sensors, fuel rail, motor mounts, OMP, and torqued down the flywheel nut, and main hub.

The car is at my dads house since i dont have a big enough garage for it. in 2 weeks when this semester ends i plan on putting it in teh car then we can see if all this hard work is goign to pay off.

 

the engine is in the car now, and the transmission bell housing is bolted to the engine, but the clutch isnt quite up against the flywheel, any idea why?

When i removed the engine i did not know how to do the quick release thing so i unbolted the clutch from the flywheel.

 

You didn't bolt up the pressure plate before installing the engine and mating it to the transmission?

 

no, what do i need to do? take the transmission off and bolt it up first?

 

Typically, there are little tabs that you need to line up for the pressure plate. You might be able to do it the way it is now however, you'll most likely need to drop the transmission. Here an ancient picture from when I did a clutch install about 5-6 years ago:

 

i saw some holes in the pressure plate that needed to line up with the flywheel, but i still cant get it to bolt to the flywheel, ill take off the transmission. ty for the help.

 

Do you have a clutch alignment tool? You'll need one.

 

i have one somewere, thats the tool with groves in it you stick through the clutch plate into the back of the engine right?

 

Its to align the clutch for the input shaft of the transmission. Without it, the clutch can slip out of place as you bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel.

 

ok, i got it aligned without taking out the transmission. i figured ide screw around with it some more before taking out the transmission and i finially got it to align right.

 

I do not remember were these go.

 

hi guys, i am having trouble with the fuel pump, when i turn the key on it does not turn on, I jumped the ground and fuelpump pins in the diagnostic port as the FSM said and then it would turn on, but when i take it back out it doesnt turn on. also, there is not continuity between the bottom two pins on the fuel pump meaning it is bad right? if so why would it turn on when i jumped the pins in the diagnostic port, thanks for any help.

 

I am having the exact same problem!!! Did you figure out what this was???

I am done with the install myself...heh HHHHEEEELLLPPP!!!

 

Well its not the pump, but the pump primes for a sec to develop pressure before the start...as the pump only runs if the motor is turning...jumping the pins is for priming the and pressurising the fuel system after an install or removal of fuel components!!!

 

I got it running today. I had to use some ATF to get it to start up at first, and it smoked a ton for a few minutes, but now its idling just fine, and not smoking too bad. It looks like i have a fuel leak so im going to take off the UIM and see if i cant find it.

 

Good progress... good luck on finding that leak.

 

Thought i would give you guys an update. The car is running now, i need to adjust the fuel map i think. I had the return line mixed up with the evap line lol, it was filling up the charcol canister than dumping it onto the ground.

 

 

 

Wow its been a long time! looking through these pictures i cant believe how much i have learned. I did not know where the AST went? hahaha If this is still in 3rd gen will mods please move to build threads, now that it exists.

Have done alot, yet not so much as im not working and a student. The car has not gotten as much attention as it deserves but i have done a wire tuck, v-mount, aem water meth install, replaced 5th/reverse syncro and a few other things.