Go to the auto parts store and see if they have a cheap generic tank that is similar capacity but shorter.

 

good idea. Zero on Amazon which doesn’t bode well my chances in retail stores

 

Try US Plastics, they should have something suitable that would fit: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/de...lickid=leftnav

 

I used factory washer tank

 

I thought about that, but that's really small (at least in the US). I know the Canadian cars had bigger tanks, which I think is what Sake Bomb Garbage based theirs on.

 

Why not use the front factory washer tank like I do?

Dale

 

Oh...the front!? I thought you used the rear. I'll have to look into that. I ordered the JP3 mounting kit for the pump to mount it near there fuel filter part of the under chassis. Is it OK to have the pump that far from the source? The AEM manual seems says to keep them close. My engine bay has ZERO room for this huge pump.

@DaleClark any idea what the capacity is of the front tank? I can't find it anywhere

 

I use stock washer tank and put pump right on Frame near steering column
and I still have ps, ac, etc
please ignore wiring mess, it has been cleaned up

 

^Yep, that's basically what I did. Anthony, I think I linked my "mini mega build" thread where I installed my water injection setup.

Not sure on capacity of the stock front tank, probably a gallon or two I would guess. If you are doing hard track pulls not sure how long it will last but I've filled up, done a whole Deal's Gap trip with plenty of hot ******* it, got home and still had a good amount left.

Dale

 

Hmm...Ill have check mine. My issue is that because I wanted to keep cruise control, I have my IGN1 coils mounted using the RHD kit from Sake Bomb which puts it low on the driver side frame next to steering column. As it sits now, I can't replace spark plugs from below because it gets in the way. Actually, I'm pretty sure that's exactly where my coils are...

https://www.sakebombgarage.com/ign-1...x-7-rhd-mount/

 

Another option is to mount it on brackets to the drivers tow hook like I did, which is basically completely out of the engine bay and will allow gravity feed from the washer tank like aem calls for. 100% stealth setup and works fine, my car just seems to go through water meth really fast so I'm going to a sakebomb tank and jp3 rear mount now. If you want to try any of this stuff lmk. I'll send it to you as It is all coming out of the car.

 

Also this, and I'm late to the party, and seem to be in the minority here, but I've had 2 aem controllers fail with known issues from aem. Switched to a Snow performance vc-50 gauge/controller and have had far less issues and have a gauge staring at me showing that it's working and what it is doing. Secondly, and take this with a grain of salt, as Dale and HC know worlds more than me, but here is my setup that I collaborated with Bryan on to decide where to mount my ai nozzle and my triumph sensor. Be it wrong or right, it's tuned for this arrangement and seems to work great. But like Dale said, apples and oranges, I'm still on a PFC and stock harness.

Devlis Own #5 in the straight section and triumph ait sensor in the bend of the elbow.

 

Clever set up. But, roads are pretty sketchy here, and I would live in fear with my pump that exposed underneath the car. Sounds like you're switching it up, anyways.

 

I'm on the fence on placement, it's currently right after the ic core.
figure it needs time to "work" and remove heat, but I see alot of guys run it alot closer to tb

 

It is higher up and more protected than it looks like in the pic, that was never a problem in the last 5k miles, and roads are pretty good in NC. My concern was always the elements, if I got caught in the rain, as my car is a fair weather driver only. Methinks it's going to still be fairly exposed on the rear subframe with the jp3 mount. I may have to rethink that also.

 

too bad this wasn’t a month or two ago; had to replace the AEM tank in mine because of how the previous owner mounted it (mounting tabs were breaking) and bought a new one from Summit Racing. I could have taken that off your hands.

any way you may have missed your window of opportunity to sell out; getting a bit crowded in the $50k Club FS area … might as well keep moving forward then. Hopefully the 3rd time’s a charm. 🤞
​​​​​​.

 

Random question: My current waste gates are open. If I had a muffler shop reroute those into my exhaust, does that require a retune because it changes the backpressure/flow of my exhaust? At 14psi, my car is LOUD. Fun at the track..not so fun on the street....

 

You will run richer with recirculated wastegates or an exhaust tip silencer or anything else that reduces your system volumetric efficiency.

Up to you if you want a retune (safe, but slower).

I would love to see an after dyno.
I believe I have read at least 3 ex wg before and after dump vs rs recirc through the last 20 years and its usually 30-40rwhp less once retuned on a ~400rwhp FD.

but ofc depends on WG proirity, size, number merge and exhaust diameter.

A cool set-up would be IWG EFR plus ex WGs as well. Nice and quiet till the IWG boost creep rpm range and then no loss in power once there with the external dumps.

So basically, wouldnt be loud even with aggressive street driving, just all out railing it.

 

Was also wishing to see/do this setup.

 

Where did you mount your tank? I'm leaning toward a rear bin but I am a little worried about how much space I gain when I cut out a bottom...

 

sorry, REW in an RX8 chassis so I’m not going to be able to help out in your situation

Sakebomb tank price is hard to swallow for sure, but sometimes the end result is worth the initial kick in the nuts. Kind of like owning a Porsche. A unique custom solution that clicks off all the boxes has it’s price.
.

 

Sakebomb tank will be cheaper than replacing the bins should you try to reverse this in future.

 

You can just use one of the cheap plastic spare tire water tanks in the spare tire well.

 

Owning a Porsche is part of the reason I’m done pissing away gobs of money on this FD. The assumption that because I own one means I can **** away money on the other is false. I am $68k into this FD. I’m now that guy I secretly laughed at when I went to DGRR several years ago and people shared with me what they spent on their car.

 

Any reason you went with welding a bung vs tapping a hole? I haven’t pulled mine yet, but are the walls not thick enough? I was thinking of just getting a 1/8 NPT tap.