Look dude, you were wrong. If you are unwilling to admit that, then that's your problem.

I never said "having an FMIC will cause your car to overheat!" - I said that an FMIC in such a configuration won't be ideal for certain situations. If he is just dragging the car than an FMIC should be just fine. However if he is going to auto-x or track the car, I was suggesting that he configure the ducting similar to JhnRx7 (where the radiator gets at least some fresh air).

All I was saying was that an FMIC without a proper ducting configuration will definitely cause the car's water temps to climb faster compared to a setup where the radiator gets at least some fresh air. You can't argue with this.

Look, even Mazda realized that the radiator needed to get more airflow - that's part of the reason why they redesigned the front bumper to have a larger opening. It's also the reason why they added an extra opening to the front bumper (integrated into the front license plate mount). You can see a lot of photos of the newer rebar & extra airguide (ducting) pieces here:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...6&postcount=10
and
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/support-braces-trim-oem-99-spec-front-bumper-413377/

The car in your sig has nothing to do with your "weight" around here. Your incorrect claims and obvious ignorance regarding this subject have more of a factor in that.

You might know a bit about drag racing Dodge Neons but you clearly don't know very much about the FD3S. If you can't even identify the parts on your "recently purchased" part-out car, should you really be arguing with people who have owned/driven/worked on these cars for years?

These forums already have enough miss-information thanks to overzealous noobs, we don't need to add to it.


Back on topic, chappy586, the car looks great. Obviously you've put a lot of work into the details and that's what makes a great build. Cheers!

 

That's definitely not what it sounded like in the beginning. It sounded like you were taking one sentence I said slightly out of context and freaking out about it.

My previous statement was overly exaggerated to attempt to get my point across. I'd say it's safe to assume that 85-90% of cars with aftermarket turbo setups run a fmic, without compromised airflow to the radiator. I obviously need to choose my words better and not make such general statements.

p.s. my neon is schuper kewl

 

I had a Greddy FMIC on my last FD. Performed well, sure, but my water temp would rise quickly if driven hard. It didn't do that with the stock ic and duct.

Duct it. looks great.

 

In for more pics.

Question: Did you remove the seam sealer around the shock towers and engine bay? If so, did you put anything back over it or just prime/paint? I'm trying to shave my bay now and I am wanting to get rid of all the seam sealer if I can.

 

I will snap more pictures this weekend when the car should be completely together. As far as the seam sealer on the shock towers, it wasn't really removed so much as it was "cleaned up". I only helped a bit the the body work, all the shaving and painting was done by a few friends of mine at their shop.

 

Chappy nice set up! I'm not gonna be critical like some on here about your IC/rad set-up, but you will have cooler temps if you remove your under tray with the way you have your rad/IC set-up. Here's why!



If the rad is only getting air from the front mouth and that air has to PASS through your IC, then you will have reduced air flow to the radiator. If you reduce the air flow to ANY heat exchanger, that heat exchanger becomes less effective in going it's job (hence higher temps). The reason why removing the under tray works better with front mounts that completely block the front mouth is because of the hi pressure point created in front of the IC. Not all the air can pass through that restrictive core. Since air will always take the path of least resistance, some air goes over the car and some air goes underneath. The air that goes underneath gets very turbulent as it hits the ground and bounces back up towards the radiator. This turbulance will actually cause HUGE amounts of air to hit your radiator at it's current angle. With an under tray in place, it will ONLY get the restricted air that passes through the IC.

David Hayes has a IC that completely covers the front mouth and he also admitted to having a cooler engine with NO under tray installed vs when it was installed. David also has a 20b in a hot Florida climate. So if David can keep a larger engine cool in a hot climate, you should be fine with a smaller engine up north.


So there's your real word proof right there.

 

Thats what makes sense to me too, without the undertray there is more air actually flowing to the radiator that does not have to flow through the intercooler. So far I have not put the undertray on and so far it stays pretty cool.

 

Hey guys, here are a few more pictures of the car from a local show today. Ended up taking home runner up for best in show!!! The picture of the msd box, ignition and such is up under the passenger footwell behind the glovebox where the heater box normally sits just for reference.

 

That's a nice and clean looking clutter free engine bay.