Kiku

iTrader: (4)

Haltech ordered..finally...soon to be running!

motors back in the car..after having to take it out again to put the lock ring for the throw out bearing back into the pressure plate.


back in its home:


painted the water fill neck, front cover, alternator, etc black with rainbow flake. Came out awesome. You can also see my cool JDM TYTE YO sapporo oil catch can.

Tried making a "to-do" list but it just made me feel really far away from finishing..so it went in the trash

geopouros

iTrader: (1)

cool staff

SW20-AE86

Other than those wheels it came with. Clean car.

Rubbish

iTrader: (1)

Sweet looking fd, I also live in Austin trying to find a fd

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

That's why they had to go

Came home to find this waiting for me:

TougeSpirit

iTrader: (12)

Ahh you lucker. Every time I see one of these pop up all I can think about is replacing the pfc command and logit.. so much bulk lol. Congratz! What was your reasoning in getting a haltech vs the adaptronic or similar high end ecu?

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

I went haltech because it turns out that my harness was for an automatic and was jumpered to work with a manual. Rather then mess around with it and try and rewire it up for adaptronic or something I figured a custom harness with haltech would be the best solution.

Adaptronic offers a lot of nice features but its nothing haltech hasn't really offered before. The plug and play feature is nice if you want the stock harness and wiring. But i wanted to clean up my electrical at the same time. As far as capabilities the sprint re (the ecu i chose) has slightly less resolution at 16x16 vs the adapt at 32x16. It cant run a/c or OMP (which i dont have) but it can do everything else. Boost by gear, adaptable tuning, etc. Pretty much comes down to what you want to do with it, and decided haltech would be the best option. I also spent 955 shipped for my sprint vs 1400 for the adapt.

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

Motor is hopefully in for the last time this go around. started wiring the haltech.

and this:
Testing out some j-land style gt wing mounting. All about that style lol. i wonder how many this will offend

rawrzor

awesome sapporo tank lol. clean build

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

Haha, gt wings are cool. I like clean oem+ builds as well but for mine I want something a bit different and something you'd find in the US. Not really looking for huge amounts of extra downforce at this height. I plan on building two sets of stays. One to mount it low and another to mount high for "real" tracking vs drifting. The carbon wrapped cap has slowly grown on me. one day i'll come to hate it i'm sure


Rawrzor ty man, wanted something different then like a greddy catch can its actually baffled and everything inside haha

And now for something a bit less ricey haha wiring up my haltech finally!

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

Put in about 36hours straight with a one hour nap trying to meet a deadline. A whole lot of work and right now it still wont start. Just cranks I'll attach the video

Wiring work



motor mostly back together



My cool switch panel. Pretty ricey



Ricey shot of my stickered dash. First power up for the haltech.



how she sat at the end of the night. Lots of hard work so far but having it just crank and crank is a heartbreaker

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

Here's the attempted start vid. Dont mind the weak sounding battery. It's being jumped by another car. Other attempts cranked harder.

Things I've done:
Spark Confirmed
Fuel Pressure at 37psi
Trigger/Home plugs wired in properly
Deflooding procedure about 5 times now. Compression sounds fine.
Uploaded base haltech map and a modified one, neither can get it to start.
All the relays and such have power as far as I can tell as everything powers up.
Haltech says injectors are at 3.5% duty during cranking


Only thing i noticed that could be off is the TPS. Tps is reading literally nothing even when I tried to recalibrate it. Not sure if that could be the problem or not.

Also not sure if i wired the resistors for the primaries in properly. I have them on the power side not the ecu side. Ive seen threads on here for both.

Here's the vid dont mind the end, was turning off the pump etc:

boosted414

iTrader: (30)

I *believe* resistors generally need to be on the ECU side. the ECU needs to see 14-16ohm or it doesn't like them. but don't quote me on that.

also you posted an image link, not the vid

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

CAM00391_zps75ffeced.mp4 Video by lotus_fd3s | Photobucket

Thanks for pointing that out lets try this one.

mcon

iTrader: (2)

Had a similar problem a while ago. Your rpm doesn't seem to be registering. Check your crank sensors which are behind the front pulley. White plug should be closer to the center of the pulley than the grey one.
If your not getting any signal from them, your injectors and ignition won't fire.

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

Tacho i dont think is wired right. But I'm going to double check the crank sensors for a 5th time lol..cuz that's what a lot of people have been saying.

s2kguy17

iTrader: (5)

Looking good man, just realized I am following you on instagram ha.

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

Thanks dude, just wish it would start so it can stop looking good parked and start looking good rolling.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

still not starting?

kiku, post a pic of the ignition setup page tab and the trigger settings tab.
if you verified that you have spark, your trigger settings are probably off.
which injectors are you running?


also, TPS has nothing to do with starting.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

^ i missed the time window to edit.

if you verified that you have spark and the CAS plugs are wired correctly, your trigger settings are probably off.
i didn't see a tach gauge on your haltech gauges page there, but if it's firing the injectors, it's getting an RPM signal. it's probably just happening at the wrong time. this is why you have trigger adjustment.

1. which injectors are you running?
2. crash cource on the trigger settings: tooth offset is a coarse adjustment, and trigger angle is a fine adjustment.
try changing the tooth offset up and down by 1 or two at a time. the tooth offset should be somewhere around 10-12, and the trigger angle may need to be around 50-80

also, TPS has nothing to do with starting.

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the tips, I haven't had time to really mess around with it yet. Super busy all week.
Injectors are 850/1680. 850's are stock denso 1680 are bosch ev1's
I have 2-3 maps atm. Got haltech basemap, an e85 map, and a slightly tuned basemap
Anyways, I'm about 65% sure right now my problem is with the injectors not firing/getting intermittent power supply or something. One day got 12.4v yesterday was testing got 8.5v best and during cranking it dropped to ~5v. Like I think my problem is that the injectors aren't firing. My plugs are moist but it looks like premix and that's about it. I would think if its incorrect timing and injectors are firing wrong the plugs would still be wet.

I can see the tach output on the haltech screen. I'll check my trigger settings still.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

sorry i meant to type tooth offset 5, trigger angle ~65.

also, i hope you've removed like 30% fuel, unless you have a base map for 850cc primaries.

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

That's what my offset and angle look like in the settings screen. I removed some but I was using a map for 1000cc primaries (e85 map)

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i was actually just messing with my trigger settings trying to zero my timing (i have a haltech PS1000) and ludwig is saying they should be offset 10, angle ~65 on an FD.

having the tooth offset off by more than 2 or 3 can make it completely not start.

try 10 and 65 and see if it fires up.

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

Haha, I went back and double checked again and my settings were 10/65 as per the haltech start up manual recommendations. Rewiring some grounds and power wires and seeing if she wont fire up. I'm 95% sure its some sort of electrical issue.